Jasper Re-Man Engine: Break in period? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Jasper Re-Man Engine: Break in period?

sk1er17

My "Jeep Thing" itches...
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Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 Sport
Ok couldnt find anything on this so i have a few questions;

Just purchased a japer reman 4.0 L SOHC.

1) What kind of break in period?
- dont go over 3000rpms for first 1K miles?
- let idle for first 45 minutes and re-torque anything?
2) Now that i have a new engine im planning on using mobile 1 full synthetic (5W30)
- Start with that or use a different weight?
- Change oil/filter again after first 500 or 1000 miles?
3) Is there even any break in technique or just put the oil in, start it up, take it easy on the gas for a few thousand miles and go?
 



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i would just follow the manual for your car the way it says to break it in when it was new. although i would change the oil after 1k miles and try to vary the rpm
 






I always thought that full synthetic oil on a new engine was bad. Too slippery for the new engine. I thought you just need to use regular cheap oil for the first 1000 miles and then change it and you could go with synthetic.
 






i know that is true with older style engines but i think with the newerones it is okay
 






Joey p. said:
I always thought that full synthetic oil on a new engine was bad. Too slippery for the new engine. I thought you just need to use regular cheap oil for the first 1000 miles and then change it and you could go with synthetic.

I'd do it that way. But we always changed the oil after 500 miles if it was new.
 






With these modern motors I've heard the only real important thing to break in is the piston rings. Basically, run it at varying rpms for the first 500 miles, while never under continuous heavy load. I'd change the oil at 500 miles also so you can inspect it prior to going 1000k miles while your motor grinds itself to pieces. :D When I did my cam I did the same thing. I ran the cheapeast oil at Pep Boys because it would just be in and out. Synthetic is a $30 oil change.

Get pics! :D
 






I just found this while searching. It's about Water cooled VW's but it's All about oil. It's long and has a lot of information. There is an article at the end that explains about engine break in. Maybe if your bored you could read it. I aggree with Section....use the cheap oil first because it won't be in for very long. http://www.corax.org/hotwater/oil/Oil-1.html
 






section525 said:
I ran the cheapeast oil at Pep Boys because it would just be in and out. Synthetic is a $30 oil change.

Get pics! :D

Use dino oil for the first oil change or 2... otherwise you're just wasting money

They say the old school method of changing the oil in the first 500 miles isn't necissary (new car oil change intervals are like in the first 10k miles!) but i don't trust that. there going to be some sort of mating/wear between the rings, pistons, and cylinder walls... and i don't want any of that stuff in my oil... of course i still change every 3k which is "old school" now too
 






thanks for all the replies but theres one thing..

everyones talking about "newer" engines. Like i know ford recommends full synthetic for some of their new 4.0's where'as in 98 it wasnt.

i dont know what year the block is from.. it could be a 97 sohc that blew up or it could be a 01... know what i mean?

I guess the cheap stuff at first makes sense though.. and i put about about 800 miles on every week so time-wise it wont be in there very long..
 






From what I understand, the first 20-50 miles of driving are very important on a new engine. I was told that you should "push" the engine a good deal to properly seat the rings. I have a website somewhere that even backs it up, let me find it. :) Here is is: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 






hmmm, thats a very interesting page....

anyone have anything to say on this? preferebly people in the field.. i know i can get a million people saying "well i did ( ) and never had a problem" or " I've always done ( ) and it works fine". This article actually has some technical evidence and makes logical sense...
 






when we put a reman engine in the shop i work at we make them come back in at 500 miles or we void the warranty. and yea, i would still use syn because thats what you motor is going to be used to. def take it easy!
 






There are as many thoughts and ideas on how to break in a new motor and what oil to use as there are different kinds of motors.
 






What do the folks at Jaspers recomend ?
 






I'm old school when it comes to oil, but I would change it often with cheaper oil in the begining, and then switch to synthetic if you want. You have nothing to lose here.
 












well, the engines in. it started up with ease. All in all, just about everything is new under there, engine/alt/IAC/Belts/Hoses/tensioner/Thermostat/Gaskets/etc..

Only one thing im worried about- sounds like the lifters are lowder than normal? Even after it heats up and has been running for a while it literally sounds like a small diesel engine... not a knocking or pinging... literally like a scaled down diesal. The timing chain tensioners shouldnt be an issue considering its a Jasper engine.

Ive never owned a brand new engine before- think the sound will go away? It only has 50 miles as of tonight so I may just be paranoid. But i did this whole swap basically single handidly and i really really dont wanna do it again :confused:
 






and its not just me hearing the noise ;)

i went to the mac machine and my girl was like "wow, it does sound like a diesal".. though the MAC may have amplified it a little for her, its very very noticeable when standing outside.
 






what weight oil is in it
 



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