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Jiffy lube

toughguy

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Joined
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City, State
South Florida.
Year, Model & Trim Level
2ford explorers 1999 2000
old friend works at this joint so I ask her how and what do they use to do a differential flush.... they don't remove the rear end cover...they "SUCK" out the fluid and install the new fluid......I want to know is this correct ??? does this work? and does this remove all the fluid ? does anybody on this site use this? and for the tranny flush they suck out the fluid and install new fluid no filter....what can go wrong here?
 



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Servicing transmissions are one of the most highly debated subjects here. IMO, here's one of the better articles. YMMV

What is a Transmission Flush? Process and Advice
http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/

Regarding changing differential fluid, most prefer to remove the rear cover for inspection and to clean any contaminants that settle on the bottom.
 






Both pans have magnets to catch metal shavings, so both have to be removed and cleaned.
 


















old friend works at this joint so I ask her how and what do they use to do a differential flush.... they don't remove the rear end cover...they "SUCK" out the fluid and install the new fluid......I want to know is this correct ??? does this work? and does this remove all the fluid ? does anybody on this site use this? and for the tranny flush they suck out the fluid and install new fluid no filter....what can go wrong here?

Dude, just think about it. No it's doesn't all the fluid out of the diff, more importantly it doesn't get out all the crap and possible water that may be in there, so it's better than nothing, but not much better than doing nothing.

As far as just sucking the trans fluid out and not changing the filter, that's a total rip-off and IMO worse than doing nothing. The reason there's no drain plug in the trans pan is so shops don't just change the fluid w/out replacing the filter.
 






The reason there's no drain plug in the trans pan is so shops don't just change the fluid w/out replacing the filter.
Perhaps, but having the drain in there (which I installed in all my Fords) avoids the horrible mess that happens when you drop a full pan. So I dare to suggest that the absence of a drain was intended to provide easy profit for dealers. And, to take it one step farther, now they even eliminated the dipstick. My wife's dipstick-less Kia is supposed not to need a transmission fluid change in 100,000 miles. Guess what the fluid looked like when I got there at about 65,000?
 






Perhaps, but having the drain in there (which I installed in all my Fords) avoids the horrible mess that happens when you drop a full pan. So I dare to suggest that the absence of a drain was intended to provide easy profit for dealers. And, to take it one step farther, now they even eliminated the dipstick. My wife's dipstick-less Kia is supposed not to need a transmission fluid change in 100,000 miles. Guess what the fluid looked like when I got there at about 65,000?

I totally agree with adding a drain plug when you remove the trans pan. I recently added a plug to my '01 ST trans pan. I keep a few in my tool box for just that purpose. I bought some off eBay for round $10 for 2.
 






I totally agree with adding a drain plug when you remove the trans pan. I recently added a plug to my '01 ST trans pan. I keep a few in my tool box for just that purpose. I bought some off eBay for round $10 for 2.

where did you get the drain plugs from and were they hard to install?
 


















The one I installed came from Autozone or Pep Boys iirc, and it came with a copper washer/gasket. Hasn't leaked a drop in 15 years.
 






I put on a Dorman 265831 trans pan that came with a non-magnetic drain plug. I swapped that plug out for a Lisle magnetic plug. Did a filter change also. Good to go.
 






It's hard to tell from the photo how these ebay plugs seal. The ones commonly sold in auto supply stores rely on compressing an o-ring by tightening the bolt, which is prone to failure because o-rings are not intended to be twisted like that. The better type that I got (from an Amazon seller) has a brass bolt and tapered thread, which does not require any gasket to seal.

The nut and white nylon washer go inside the pan. The other part is like a large hollow bolt which is screwed into the nut. They get torqued to 22 Ft lbs. The small plug screws into the hollow bolt from the bottom and is a compression seal. It gets torqued to 14 Ft lbs. It's very important to drill a nice clean hole, that's why I use a step-drill. Once the hole is drilled I use the next step to chamfer the edges of the hole on both sides for a super clean. smooth finish. No leaks to-date.
 












I'll trust Jiffy Lube to do 3 things. Change my oil and filter, change my fuel filter, change my air filter. Anything above that my vehicle goes to a mechanic. As for transmission servicing, if you have an older vehicle doing a "flush" may create problems. What my transmission shop has done in the past for me is they drop the pan, do a visual inspection, change the filter, empty the fluid that is in the pan, and then button everything back up and top off the fluid.

Also note that the 5r55's are "closed" systems, so my previous statement doesn't apply to them.
 






What I commented on was not the permanent seal in the pan, but the one for the small plug screw. Using an o-ring there may work for a couple fluid changes, but it will ultimately be torn. A no-gasket tapered thread is much better.
The nut and white nylon washer go inside the pan. The other part is like a large hollow bolt which is screwed into the nut. They get torqued to 22 Ft lbs. The small plug screws into the hollow bolt from the bottom and is a compression seal. It gets torqued to 14 Ft lbs. It's very important to drill a nice clean hole, that's why I use a step-drill. Once the hole is drilled I use the next step to chamfer the edges of the hole on both sides for a super clean. smooth finish. No leaks to-date.
 






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