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jim's toyota failed SMOG 2

jimbo74

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City, State
Nor*Cal
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001, F150, XLT 4x4
can anyone help me? my toyota failed CA smog 2, run @ speed on a dyno, it passed the EVAP tank pressure test and also the gas cap tests

here are my results

SMOGfail.JPG



truck is an 84 4x4 toyota pckup with a carbureator
 



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...On my old 20r I had to have the carb rebuilt for each smog test or it would not pass the test...:dunno:...It had the carb with the water jacket...
 






the deal is i need to get it fixed asap, and i dont have $... so kinda sucks......
 






Its not failing by much. You need to get your HC and CO down a little bit. If you lean it out just a little, you will probably make it. IIRC (I had an 82 Toyota PU) there is a mixture screw on the carb.

Is your air filter clean? If not, definitely replace it.
 






i have a couple things i want to run through... i have heard my accelerator pump has a diaphragm and those fail all the time

i also want to check my egr system, change my oil, and possibly new plugs

there is soem stuff i want to try that peopel have said works, its a pass or its free fuel additive, at this point, it's worth a shot

the air cleaner has 2000 miles on it, but im sure i could replace it again.....



i tinkered with the mixture screw after the test, but i have heard that only effects idle and not running... so i don't know
 






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i tinkered with the mixture screw after the test, but i have heard that only effects idle and not running... so i don't know

Actually, now that I think about it, you are probably right. It can't hurt to change the plugs, also check the dist cap and rotor. I remember that I used to have problems with the cap and rotor going bad on mine.
 






cap and rotor are fairly new, so i doubt thats an issue, but i will try to replace those too


i tried to adjsut the timing.... and i think i stripped out the head! where the dizzy tightens down.... GREAT!!!!!!!! i am most likely going to helicoil it.... but i am not sure.... i need to see if that hole goes in the head or if its jsut a recess.... dotn want to try and drill it if its going to get shavings in the motor.....
 






I think its this hole:
 

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thats wht i was afraid of... i think it is that hole too... :(



at least i can get to it with the valve cover off, i might still be able to helicoil it....


some peopel say helicoils suck and timecerts are better, but ive got a helicoil holding on my waterneck... and it hasn't let me down.....
 






If you pull the valve cover, you can either:

Try to block the hole from the inside (temporally) so that chips can't fall down into the pan.

or

Rig up a shop vac so that you suck any chips out before they can fall down there.

I think I would try the first one if possible. If you do get any chips, they should fall all the way down to the pan because that area is where the timing chain is.

That photo is from a 93 22RE, but I don't think they have changed the head for many years.
 






yeah, im thinking a couple rags shoved in there would be fine...... yup, the 93 re was the relatively same head as the 85 22r
 






don't want to try and drill it if its going to get shavings in the motor.....

Put some petroleum jelly on the drill bit, and drill slowly and in small size increments and you should get almost zero shavings inside.

Also what temp t-stat are you running, stock 195°? And make sure the engine is good and warm when you test it; and if you have to wait a bit at the test station then leave the truck running to maintain the temp.
 






good idea about the vaseline..... i am still going to pull the valve cover for extra insurance.....

i plan on helicoiling it....


the thermostat is stock..... could i change it to something else? what about the cap (13 psi)



yeah, truck was warm, and they got it in pretty quick......
 






The stock t-stat should be a 195°.

I learned the vaseline trick when I had to drill my exhaust manifold for an EGT probe on my SD.
 






should i try running another thermostat? or radiator cap?
 






Don't think you'll be able to find a higher t-stat for your application, and the pressure rating on the cap just elevates the boiling point of the coolant.
 






Don't think you'll be able to find a higher t-stat for your application, and the pressure rating on the cap just elevates the boiling point of the coolant.

if i can, i should run it? what would be the max i should run? i mean thermostats arent all that complicated, all i would have to do is fine one with the same size as the hole in my waterneck
 






I would stick with a 195° t-stat. And look at some of the other factors that were mentioned before. Also may want to try Sea-Foaming everything, and by that I mean throw some in the gas tank, cankcase and run some through a vacuum line on the upper intake.
 






I don't think you will see any benefit from going higher than stock, but if your t-stat opens at a lower temp than stock, it could hurt your emissions. Some people run lower temp t-stats to try to fool the engine into using a richer A/F ratio, which is the opposite of what your truck needs. You need it to lean out a bit to get the HC and CO numbers to come down. If you go too lean, the NOx number will go up, but you have some room for that and can still pass.
 



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