JKS swaybar disconnects

[JayR]

Does anyone, or has anyone used the sway bar disconnect from a cj 7 to for an explorer i read about it and im triing to do the same. Where can i buy jks products like this disconnect.

 

[Ray Hutchinson]

Sway Bar disconnect

JayR,

You don't say what year Explorer you have, but I believe Paul Bredehoft's '92 has JKS -style disconnects, though I believe they are custom, not actually JKS.

Another option that works well for me, is to remove the bolts that attach the swaybar links to the brackets on the TTB. I made pins from 1/2" dia.( if I remember correctly) bolts, long enough to have the entire unthreaded shank part go through and leaving about an 1" extra unthreaded portion sticking through. Cut off the threads, grind the cut edge to a taper, and drill a hole for a "hairpin" retaining clip through the bolt to hold it in place. These pins remove and reinstall easily, and I can bungee the swaybar and links up out of the way, using existing holes in the frame to hook to. I have compared the time and effort needed to dis and reconnect this system with my j**p owning friends, and think mine is as easy and fast to use as theirs.

 

[Mat R]

Tine Pins

Rather than spending all the time messing with a bolt, you can just buy what is called a "tine pin". I ran these for a while, and I'll just add that if you have or want poly bushings, don't use them because they suddenly become very hard to remove and put back in. One cool thing about actual Swaybar Disconnects, is you can get them longer if you have a lift, so no messing with drop down brackets, and they actually remove that part of the bar, so they are a little easier to bungee out of the way.

Mat

 

[JayR]

Mine is a 92 sport, with a 21/2 inch lift and 31's, im triing to keep up with all my jeeping buddies, they have more float. I also am still running stoick shocks. I know that will limit it. I want edilbrock's IAS's but how long should i get them?? or rancho 5000's, and how long??

 

[JayR]

Hey matt, Question for you. I just spent like an hour looking through your site. How did u like the ride with the 2 inch body and 2 1/2 inch suspention? Im asking because i want to run 33's and i dont think im going to drop my lift i have and get a superlift 5'5 inch. Im gonna run 33 baja claw's

 

[Ray Hutchinson]

Lift

JayR

What lift do you have? If its the Rancho 21/2" like mine, you don't have drop brackets for the swaybar, like MatR talks about, but longer sway bar links instead. My Rancho has the poly bushings in the swaybar link ends. Those came with them lift kit, and I replaced about every other bushing and rubber piece I could find under the truck with poly from Energy Suspension, while I was doing my Rancho Lift, so I guess his "tyne Pins" wouldn't work for us.

I also have the performance 2" body lift and 33" BFG KO's, and I like the total combo just fine. Performed great at Colors2K this year ( I was still running without the 2" body lift and still had BFG31"s at Moab).

As far as improving your axle articulation so you can keep up with the "heapers", then you don't want R5K's for shocks.
If any Rancho's go with the 9K' so you can adjust them to minimum resistance while off road so you get rapid rise and droop of your axles. In the rear, I completely and permanently removed the sway bar, as have many of the serious offroaders. This is a good inexpensive improvement that costs $0.00! I run my R9K's at the 5 or max firm setting on the highway to reduce body roll and to compensate for the lack of a rear swaybar. As for length, any decent offroad shop should be able to give you the correct lengths for the shocks they sell. I'd tell you what one's I have but I think the part number is only on the boxes, and they were thrown away years ago. I'll look tomorrow though, to see if there's any part numbers on the shocks that I can see, but I don't remember seeing any. BTW, I'm not totally impressed by Rancho shocks, I've had to replace mine twice now. I must beat 'em or something 'cause they seem to lose their Umph in a couple of years. I only stay with the R's because I like the remote in cab adjust option I have and only 9K's offer that, otherwise it would be Bilstein Reservoirs for me.

[Edited by Ray Hutchinson on 10-10-2000 at 12:18 AM]

 

[Mat R]

Ray has it right. The 2.5" suspension lift, and 2" body lift work great together. you may have to trim your fenders a bit like I did to fit 33s...

Mat

 

[Ray Hutchinson]

Lift combo

MattR

Yup, I like the 2-1/2 susp and 2" body lift real well! As I said recently in the Gen Expl section, "Serious off road" thread,
we're running vehicles that aren't exactly noted for superb stability (although I think quite a bit of the rollover problems are related to "Low Performance Drivers", that don't understand that you can't drive a suv TRUCK like a sportscar). I like the lesser suspension lift because it keeps the heavy stuff: eng, tranny, frame etc., lower. The 2" body lift lets you fit 33" tires. BTW: I didn't have to cut anything. Also some people are having problems with the long drop brackets on the taller (5 1/2") lifts. I'm pretty sure it's because of all the moment arm forces being applied to that long lever(drop bracket), causing them to bend or break. The shorter Rancho lift has extra bracing for the drop brackets, even though they're much shorter. Also, since the lowest points on Expl's are the pumpkins (and rear shock mounts, if you haven't fixed those yet, the only things that really help with ground clearance are taller tires. All the lift stuff is mostly to accomodate the larger tires (or to look kewl).

 

[JayR]

Why 2 inch

Im wondering why you chose the 2 inch over the 3 inch?? Does the 2 inch still allow a good amount of articulation with 33's?? I have heard that the 3 inch lift is a pain with the bumper brackets. Let me know. Thanks alot

 

[BlueDogBandit]

new club?

Hey, are you guys starting a new club without inviting me? I am running Rancho 2 1/2 with PA 2" as well. Check out at http://community.webtv.net/Watts_Zoo/EXPLORATIONS

I am only running 32x11.50 M/T's but think I could run 33x10.50's up front and 33x12.50's in back. BUT, I also have modified extra inch up front and and wp shackles in back. I replaced my bushings and bolts on the sway bar this weekend, and was really shocked how much that tightened up the front end. I've been thinking about modifying the arms to creak quick release. I was going to do this by cutting the existing arms in half, then put a sleeve around the arms with a pin like release. The arms would be the same length when on road, with pins removed, they would extend, but would have a catch so they would release. This sounded a lot better to me than buying the "heeper's" version for $135. I'm going to contact WP and see what they have, but let me know if you guys think this will work.

 

[JayR]

Sounds like it would work to me, a jeeping buddie told me that idea a while ago. How do u like the shackles and the spring spacer lift????

 

[BlueDogBandit]

love it!

I love the extra lift! I have absolutely no tire rub, and that was important to me. I wish I could find an extra set of the arms, so I would have to worry if I mess mine up. Does anybody know where I can get an extra set? Or any simular, they don't have to be rancho, I just want to have a set to mess with.

 

[Ray Hutchinson]

2" Lift

JayR,

I went with the 2" because you don't have to mess with the steering shaft, extend hoses, wires, etc..If you go 3" body lift then the steering shaft binds, and is too short. Also lots of other things have to be extended or replaced, Just not worth it, IMHO. I can fit my 33"s just fine, with no rubbing.

 

[JayR]

Thanks guys, illl go with the 2 inch. Do u know if i need to extend the drivshaft because i have a 5 speed?

 

[JayR]

Need some imput

I have about a 2 1/2 inch lift, as i have said befor. I still have STOCK BRAKE LINES and I disconnected my sway bars for a sunday wheel, but i now am worried about breaking the lines. do i have to get new ones to keep if disconnected??? (will they break if i have the sway bars disconnected?)

 

[Ray Hutchinson]

Good Plan!

JayR,

I'd definitely reccomend replacing the brake hoses on the front because of the extra articulation and travel you'll have.
I actually changed mine before the disconnect mod, but there's plenty of slack on full drop now. I used the Superlift lines, that are protected by a spring like cover, and got rid of the stupid drop tabs Rancho provides. Also, I fabricated spring retainer clips that bolt to the top of the spring tower and wrap around the top coil to prevent the springs from popping out now that there's more droop.

BTW, I had to replace my Rancho 2 1/2" coils when I added the brushbar and winch. Rancho coils are only built to carry stock front end weight. I started with a set of superlifts: too high, then two sets of custom coils by National before they got the height right.

 

[Brian1]

Re: Sway Bar disconnect

Originally posted by Ray Hutchinson
JayR,

Another option that works well for me, is to remove the bolts that attach the swaybar links to the brackets on the TTB. I made pins from 1/2" dia.( if I remember correctly) bolts, long enough to have the entire unthreaded shank part go through and leaving about an 1" extra unthreaded portion sticking through.

1/2" is the right diameter. You will have to put the bolt in a lathe and machine it down I think 29/1000 of an inch to fit through the bushing. I am in the middle of making mine now.

 

[JayR]

brian

I just used those bolts that have no threads and onlye hole, used a washer on each side and a c clip to hold it on

 

[Brian1]

I am just after something simple and cheap. Mine consists of 2 pieces 3 including a washer. It is real similar to yours. Would this work for the back swaybar too? I have not looked yet but can you tie it up without interfering with anything else?

 

[JayR]

I did the same for the rear, same method, and use straps to get them out of the way when ur wheeling. Ill take some pics soon. Hope iot all works out