Just a few questions

[Gmann82]

Hey everyone i own a 1995 4.0 V6 XLT and i just have a few questions anything you know will help!
1) what is the best way to increase my explorer's 'get up and go?' or just give it some sort of boost?
2) i am looking to put a bull bar, bigger roof rack, and auxillary lights on, does anyone happen to know the best of any of these that fit well on the 95?
3) also i just rolled over 267,000 miles, what are the best things i can do to keep my explorer running like a champ?

 

[Bronco89]

Well heres some tips, go get a tad bit more get up and go, i recomend putting in a K&N Airfilter, the filter cost 50 bucks, and i noticed a little bit better gas mileage, or you can go with the entire intake, which costs between 200 and 300 and is shown on a dyno to net you 5 more horsepower.

To keep the engine going strong, I highly reconmend using Lucas Oil Stabalizer, i swear by that stuff, and use it at every oil change and on every vehicle I own, but once you start using it, you should use it every single oil change.

And unfortunetly I cant pull up the page for the gril guard. But the one that should fit your truck is from Westin and the part number is 40-0105 and can be ordered from Summit with part number WSA-40-0105.

Hope this helps.

 

[FIND]

I would LOVE to see a reputable dyno test that said those kinds of results, and a K&N panel filter will never do ANYTHING, the stock air box and tubing flows less air than the paper filter does, so what do you really expect from a higher flowing filter? THE FILTER IS NOT A BOTTLENECK and changing to a performance filter will do nothing but make you want to think your car is better because you just spent money on it It is called a placebo effect.


I'd swear I commented on this post too. Is it cross posted elsewhere? Edit: Yes, I did. OP, it is against forum rules and considered bad netiquette to post duplicate threads in different sections as an attempt to get more answers. Post a single thread and be patient. People will see it, the same people who look through this section looks through the other.

 

[Bronco89]

FIND, not to argue with you, but I disagree. I noticed a differece with the K&N Panel element. But also, i think you read my post wrong, I said with the entire K&N intake youll net five more horses.

Gmann82, honestly, cars and such are just like a science, everyone has their own opinions on what works and what doesn't. Just think of this, an engine is a big air pump. The more air you get in, the more power you'll have. You can take any route you want to get the more air in.

 

[FIND]

Well, see, the thing about science is that there aren't opinions...

I didn't read your post wrong. I said that a panel filter does nothing, and that I would love to see a real dyno test that gives an extra 5 horsepower by putting an intake on an Explorer. Especially a 4.0 OHV.

If you felt anything using your specially calibrated butt dyno, it is because you wanted to because you spent money on something that you were convinced should give you some performance. I could put a factory induction system on a flow bench and show you however, that they don't flow any more air with a K&N panel filter than they do with an OEM style paper filter... Even with NO filter in them, they don't flow more air. See, engineers, they think about these kinds of things. Why do you think your filter box is so big to feed a 2.5 inch diameter intake? Because engineers use a different kind of science than you do, one where there are facts, not "everybody has their own opinion". Now, engineers use something called math to determine that they need to use a filter of a certain size to allow the same volume of air to flow through as an open tube of a different diameter. That is why your air box is so big.

 

[Bronco89]

Well, see, the thing about science is that there aren't opinions...

This is going to be off topic, however it will prove my point. How about all the theorys relating to the big bang, or black holes, and things such as that? It is all an opinion based on evidence before the spectator.

Maybe you are correct about the K&N, but i will still stand my ground that i noticed an overal gain of about 1 mpg average after several tanks worth of keeping track.

We'll just have to be grown men and agree to disagee.

 

[qwqb]

I can't speak from experience, but I hear that the exhaust headers stock are pretty restrictive, and that Torque Monster headers are the way to go. This should let your engine breathe a bit easier.

 

[FIND]

This is going to be off topic, however it will prove my point. How about all the theorys relating to the big bang, or black holes, and things such as that? It is all an opinion based on evidence before the spectator.

Maybe you are correct about the K&N, but i will still stand my ground that i noticed an overal gain of about 1 mpg average after several tanks worth of keeping track.

We'll just have to be grown men and agree to disagee.

Since we are going off topic, there is a difference between theory, conjecture and fact. A theory is not what you think it is and it is certainly not an "opinion". In fact, I'm fairly certain that most of the "theories" you are talking about aren't theories, but just stuff potheads and psuedoscientists conjecture. The real theories about those things are based in evidence, observation and hard science. An OPINION is just that, something that one person FEELS. Theories, conjectures and facts are all objectively based where as an opinion is subjective.

You got no power or mileage gain out of the K&N panel filter and all you are doing is misinforming people. Quite acting like you are taking the high road with the "we have to be grown men and agree to disagree." If you were really being a grown man, you wouldn't be arguing over something you don't know.

I can't speak from experience, but I hear that the exhaust headers stock are pretty restrictive, and that Torque Monster headers are the way to go. This should let your engine breathe a bit easier.

Yeah, they are, though that is not the only problem with the 5.0 manifolds. But he has a 4.0 OHV, and really the gain he could get from putting on the headers that are available for the 4.0 wouldn't really give him enough gain to be worth it.

OP, looking through the first gen section will help you find more information on the benefits and worth of putting headers on the OHV, since all 1st gens use the 4.0 OHV.

 

[Bronco89]

Okay FIND, you win, your 100% right because the K&N wouldn't be a great part to compliment other modifications down the road.

 

[FIND]

Okay FIND, you win, your 100% right because the K&N wouldn't be a great part to compliment other modifications down the road.

That's correct. A K&N panel filter is not a great part to compliment other modifications. it is 100% snake oil.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

How about a cat-back exhaust kit?
I'm seriously considering a Gibson kit for
my 4.0 OHV.

Gibson advertises IIRC a 15% gain in both
hp and torque, which would make it worthwhile.

 

[FIND]

15% is really optimistic. I wouldn't expect that kind of gain, but I wouldn't say they are worthless. It is a good option if your factory exhaust is starting to rot. But like I said in the OP's other thread, there just isn't much you can do to get much more power out of the ohv.

 

[Joe Dirt]

From the ranger board

This is what my truck did almost stock. 2000 4.0 ohv, 5 speed auto 3.55 gears and magnaflow muffler dumped under the bed. They did another run with my BBK TB and K&N drop in filter which had a negligible power increase.

This is the dyno sheet of the mods I had before I got rid of the truck. I'm not sure if the people at JBA were embarrassed that their headers alone didn't come close to the power increase they claimed or what since the numbers are so close to the stock run on a Mustang Dyno but they said the rwhp numbers would work out to 193.336hp and 275.808tq at the crank. The truck felt a whole lot faster than stock but a lot of that had to do with the automatic's shifting recalibration from the tuner.

Mods were:
-Bamachip X-Calibrator
-Nology Sparkplug Wires
-BBK Throttle Body
-Permacool E-Fan
-K&N FIPK
-AEM Cone Filter
-Straight Pipe Exhaust (no muffler after cats)
-JBA Headers
-Royal Purple Synthetic
-K&N Oil Filter
-JET 180degree Thermostat
-DEI Radiator Relief

Sounds like a whole lot of work and money to gain essentially nothing.

 

[Dono]

Yup. If you have the time, energy, money, and desire, you can slap a supercharger on there.

I still need to dyno mine before I can post anything real. I don't think anyone could ever tell me that there was little gain with this mod. I still have stock exhaust, but think its probably time to change that.

Go M90 if you want a 4.0 ohv with punch right off the line. Remember, our trucks are still very heavy though. At higher speeds, it takes gobs of torque to move these things.

Its a hobby to play with, no other way to justify doing such a thing. btw.

 

[Dono]

With all those miles on your motor, a head refresh is probably in order if it hasn't already been done.

End result is, it doesn't make sense to do any mods. You want to learn a bunch about motors and enjoy mechanical work, go for it.

 

[Poboys 99]

From the ranger board




Sounds like a whole lot of work and money to gain essentially nothing.

I have to go back to my experience with my 94 Mustang Gt on this.
When I first got it I changed gears, intake with CAI, and 1:7 Roller rockers, with the stock cam and it gained very little.
Then I changed to AFR heads and a Steeda #19 cam, with UD pulleys and noticed a big difference.
In order to even sniff really noticable kinds of results in a heavy Explorer, you have to up the power band with a gear change and cam and intake, and a reprogram of the ECU.
Gas mileage will be crap, and you'll have spent a ton of money, though your Explorer will be unique and sound badass.
I would rather use my truck for what it was designed to be used for, and do the mods to a Stang, or car to modify of your choice.
I'm currently looking for another Sn95 to build and try not to duplicate my first mistakes.
Mods if someone insists on tweaking an Explorer would be exhaust, CAI, gears, cam, heads, shift reprogram, ECU reprogram. Or just got out and get bottle kit and spray it or force induction, with ECU tweaks to compliment of course.

 

[ExDude]

 

[Poboys 99]

What did you change your gears from and to? What intake did you upgrade to? How did you catalog your gains(Dyno or Track E.T.)? Was a dedicated tune done before, after and/or both when these changes where made? Was a dedicated tune done after you installed the heads and cam?

-Nick

The mods on the 94 Mustang were as follows, went from 2:73s to 3:73s
1:7 RR, ProM MAF, Eddy 65mm TB, Typhoon intake,Shorty headers, custom X pipe duals, with 40 Flows, Cat delete, UD pulleys, 180F Stat. Dyno produced roughly 218 RWHP and like 253 TQ. :thumbdwn: Hardly worth it if I would have stopped there. 1/4 mile time was around mid 14s in Florida heat at Bradenton racetrack again :thumbdwn:
I then sold the Chinese intake for a real Eddy Performer (powerband below 6500 RPM) added AFR 165s, keeping the 1:7s and the Steeda #19, and I could feel the difference in SOTPs big time. Months later went back to the track after missing my clubs free dyno day and produced 13.43 at 107MPH, with ****ty launches (stock suspension) always regretted not getting a tune and re-dyno to have results on paper etc. It had a Tremec 5 speed.
After that I did a Fox TB conversion, dressed it up and was forced to sell do to medical illness :thumbdwn:

From this experience I learned all the mods have to work together, and the most significant thing one can do to that particular year of Stang is change the heads and cam and open the exhaust, if staying naturally aspirated.
The stock Explorer heads and intake and TB suit me fine for how I use my truck, but I sure would like another car to have a do over with...

Here she is/was

 

[ExDude]

 

[Sedition]

If your serious about it I'd pull the motor then install the SOHC flat top pistons to increase the compression ratio by 0.7:1. Then I'd port and polish the heads for better internal air flow. Then I'd replace the valves with brand new shiney ones also for better internal air flow and while your at it install bigger and stiffer valve springs so you can operate your OHV engine at higher RPM's without the valves floating. While the motor is out get a modified camshaft that opens the valves further and holds them open for longer. With high mileage like that I would be running several cans of degrease over the inside of that engine to get rid of the sludge and grit that would have accumualted over the life of this truck, keep spraying untill the metal on the inside looks brand spanking new. The last thing you want at 6krpm is a clogged oil gallery rendering the lifters useless.

After you have done all that then it may be feasilbe to install your K&N air filter and Cat back exhaust system with higher flow headers because at least now it will be able to push some air through them.

It won't cost all that much to do these mods if you have the tools, the time and the space to do it your self. Plus you will learn more working on your own engine than any book can will be able to teach you. In saying that Remember this forum has been around for something like 13 years and has information and step by step instruction with pictures on how to do almost anything.

So yes you can make your truck go faster but it will take some logical thinking about how your going to go about it and some actual real work, engine wise. Remember: just spending money on neon colored products like the ricers do won't get you anywhere. Doing actual modifications to the internals of your engine will however.

And most importantly enjoy yourself while doing these mods otherwise whats the point?