Just did breaks, now having trouble | Ford Explorer Forums

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Just did breaks, now having trouble

rob17san

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 27, 2004
Messages
277
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City, State
DENVER CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Limited
Hello Guys Hope you can help. I just did my brakes on my 1999 Explorer Limited. I replaced the FACTORY rotors with drilled and slotted ones, as well as HAWK pads. They stop great the issue I have is when I slam the brakes hard my Passenger side front brake acts up. It pulsates as if the abs is kicking on, or I have a warped rotor. It makes 1 noise for every full rotation. Cant figure it out. I bought the rotors on eBay from a semi trustworthy seller. Could be warped. My ABS light came on 1 month prior one day, I went to start my car and there it was. The night before it was not there. The other thing, is that the same same corner, had some PAD seperation. The pad and metal plate seperated and they werent that old. That was the only one that was like that. Do you think it is my caliper? What triggered the ABS light? Thanks!
 



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im having trouble with my 96 eddie bauer making a similar noise on the drivers side with factory everything. when i let off the gas and lightly tap the brakes i get a quick pulse from the drivers front wheel as it rotates. my sister noticed the noise a week ago, since then a caliper mounting bolt had worked its way out, replaced it, and now this noise still. i have no clue, its botherin me though cause i know it was to be something simple that im overlooking. if you find anything out let me know.
 






you have a problem with your ABS sensor, make sure it is connected properly and that there are no wiring problems. Then you can check the sensor with an ohm meter. The computer thinks the wheel is locked up (becuase there is no sensor readout) so it triggers the ABS on that wheel.
 






let me add to my previous comments, the ABS sensor contains a small inductive coil that produces a low voltage that the computer uses to read the wheel speed. basically the old trick of passing a magnet passed a coil to produce electricity. There is an iron disc on the wheel that passes the ABS sensor so the faster the wheel spins the more current the abs sensor produces. The computer uses that voltage, in your case I suspect that there is no voltage return to the computer.

If you have a 4wd I don't think the sensor is replacable, it comes as an entire bearing and hub assembly. Hopefully it is a simple matter of a disconnection in the wiring of the sensor.
 






Did you brake (no pun intended) in the rotor & pads? You can't just throw them on & go.
 












would this hold true for me also? there is no abs light, i do not feel this pulse or jerk constantly and when i do it does seem like it is in a regular interval but not necessarily every wheel rotation. This is new to me, ive dealt with warped rotors and stuck calipers b4 but this is a new monster all together. thanks in advance.
 






Two different problems, Rob stated that he has the ABS light on
 






would this hold true for me also? there is no abs light, i do not feel this pulse or jerk constantly and when i do it does seem like it is in a regular interval but not necessarily every wheel rotation. This is new to me, ive dealt with warped rotors and stuck calipers b4 but this is a new monster all together. thanks in advance.

your's may be related to warping of the rotors. have you checked your pads?
 






pads are good, rotors arent in the best of shape but no grooves. usually a warped rotor gives you trouble during braking.. this problem occurs while the vehicle is moving, not while im pressing the brake but after.
 






Check your abs sensors. After I installed my lift, my ABS was acting up, I ended up replacing an ABS sensor. No light came on, but pull your rotor, dust shield and clean your sensor. Check your wires for chafing, etc. The abs wires are sensitive and easily broken.
 












im hoping thats all it is but anything is likeley since my sister was driving the vehicle for a few days with 1 loose and 1 missing caliper bolt.

Missing ? as in completely gone? WOW:eek:

how did she not pump brake fluid down to nothing and lose all braking?
 






my post got hijacked! Anyway, yes I broke in the pads and rotors as per the HAWK instructions. Do you think that if my Ball Joint or Hub is bad, that this could cause it? So the ABS is mounted with the hub or ball joint? It only does it on that wheel and yea it seems as if the ABS is clicking on. It is more of a pounding, and only that wheel. I had an ABS light on before the brake change over as well.
ALSO ALDIVE, are you still selling amsoil? I have been trying to get ahold of you through PM.
 












It only does it on that wheel and yea it seems as if the ABS is clicking on. It is more of a pounding, and only that wheel.
Be sure to recheck the torque on the 2 short caliper mounting bolts. At 85 lb-ft, the spec is higher than you might guess by "feel". Undertorqued caliper bolts can back off, initially allowing vibration and later falling out completely. This is the result and it happens all too often.

DSCN1338.jpg
 






You could have a pad that is rubbing against the rotor. It's very common for the inside pad to hang up. I had the same thing happen about a week ago. When I checked, one pad was completely gone and the rotor was warped from the heat. Once I fixed it the problem it was gone. But it could also be a sensor but something tells me it a pad. write back if that is the probelm
 






I've noticed this on my front driver side. It has done it twice. I'm putting new pads & rotors on next week. I'll post my findings then.
 






I have the same prob with my 96 no abs light and new pads and rotors. its been like that since I bought the truck. It only does it once I am almost stopped. it does not hinder my braking though just the pedal vibrates..
 



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I replaced the Hub Assembly, which includes the bearing and the sensor. Did both sides, and both lower ball joints. Still have the same problems. What do you think it could be? If my fluid in the reservoir is too full, would it cause that issue? when I did the brakes, I never drained the fluid that went into the reservoir on top of what was already there. Its to full. I cant imagine that is my problem as the light was on way before the fluid level was too full. Please help!
 






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