Just got a 98 EB! Pics and questions :)

[cm8809]

Hello all!

Cm8809 here. Just picked up a 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer yesterday. It has a few issues, but overall it's in great condition.

Pics:

http://img842.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=photo12g.jpg

It has 153,000 miles on it. Had the oil and filter changed today, as well as flushed the radiator. I had the guys under the lift check everything out for a while, and they said everything looked alright down there. The suspension feels alright, the motor runs strong and the transmission shifts fine. I have been building a list of all the things I find wrong with it - let me know if you have any input or advice on anything please!

Needs:

Front brakes (they make a little noise.. still stops on a dime though)
Tires (this one will probably have to happen within 1k or 2k, they're alright but i'm not all about driving on worn ass tires)
Rust on the running boards (i guess i could just try to find new ones?)

Here's the stuff I could use advice on:

Power windows - all windows go all the way down and back up when controlled with the driver's switch. None of the other switches do anything, regardless of the position of the window lock switch. Any ideas?

Power Locks - rear locks work perfectly. Passenger lock will unlock with power, but won't lock back up. You can manually lock it though. Outside keyhole won't turn - it's completely frozen. Driver's door lock is stuck in the unlock position, and won't budge from power or from trying to push it down manually. However, the key turns from this side and disables the alarm, then unlocks all the doors if turned again. Any ideas?

Thanks for any potential help!

 

[davey's]

Hello all!

Cm8809 here. Just picked up a 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer yesterday. It has a few issues, but overall it's in great condition.

Pics:

http://img842.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=photo12g.jpg

It has 153,000 miles on it. Had the oil and filter changed today, as well as flushed the radiator. I had the guys under the lift check everything out for a while, and they said everything looked alright down there. The suspension feels alright, the motor runs strong and the transmission shifts fine. I have been building a list of all the things I find wrong with it - let me know if you have any input or advice on anything please!

Needs:

Front brakes (they make a little noise.. still stops on a dime though)
Tires (this one will probably have to happen within 1k or 2k, they're alright but i'm not all about driving on worn ass tires)
Rust on the running boards (i guess i could just try to find new ones?)

Here's the stuff I could use advice on:

Power windows - all windows go all the way down and back up when controlled with the driver's switch. None of the other switches do anything, regardless of the position of the window lock switch. Any ideas?

Power Locks - rear locks work perfectly. Passenger lock will unlock with power, but won't lock back up. You can manually lock it though. Outside keyhole won't turn - it's completely frozen. Driver's door lock is stuck in the unlock position, and won't budge from power or from trying to push it down manually. However, the key turns from this side and disables the alarm, then unlocks all the doors if turned again. Any ideas?

Thanks for any potential help!

sounds like your window lock switch is faulty mabe try spraying contact cleaner in it. good luck

 

[celly]

Welcome to the 2nd gen 5.0 club. (and EB to boot).

 

[cm8809]

Thanks, I figured it might have something to do with that. I'll check it out

 

[cm8809]

So, does anyone recognize any of the symptoms my front door locks have? It seems like someone must have had the same problem before, but a google search didn't turn up anything definitive. It'd be nice to have a couple leads before I start tearing into the doors.

 

[bobflood]

Re Power locks: Pass side - Have you tried spraying WD40 into lock cyl? If that doesn't loosen it up, it will need to be replaced. That is probably providing enough mechanical resistance to keep power actuator from locking door. Driver side - you will need to get inside door; most likely one of those plastic clips that hook all that stuff together is broken. Search for door lock threads on this site - there are several with great pics. In fact, just a couple below you is a tread about fixing the door handle that also has some good pics of the various lock rods.

 

[cm8809]

Re Power locks: Pass side - Have you tried spraying WD40 into lock cyl? If that doesn't loosen it up, it will need to be replaced. That is probably providing enough mechanical resistance to keep power actuator from locking door. Driver side - you will need to get inside door; most likely one of those plastic clips that hook all that stuff together is broken. Search for door lock threads on this site - there are several with great pics. In fact, just a couple below you is a tread about fixing the door handle that also has some good pics of the various lock rods.

Followed your advice and wd40'd the locks. Now the key will turn in the passenger side lock just fine, and it will both lock and unlock the door. You can also push and pull the lock with your hand, and the power locks will unlock it, but they still won't lock it! What would you suggest as a next move?

Edit: Thought i'd add - When they are unlocked and I press the lock button, even though the passenger door lock doesn't go down with the back 2 you can still see it move a teeny bit. It must be connected to the mechanism since it will power unlock if it's locked.. any ideas?

 

[blackout881]

Run. I had a 98 5.0 EB. Bought it with 65k, although the engine and transmission were rock solid, anything and everything else went wrong with it. over the course of 2 years and 15k miles i put 5k intro it in repairs, and preventative maintenance. I finally broke down and bought a 04 EB, which has cost me nothing so far (fingers crossed). Good luck.

 

[bobflood]

Since you said the rear door locks operate normally, that indicates that the switches themselves and the control box for the locks are OK. Need to fugure out if your pass door lock issue is mechanical or electrical. Can you hear the actuator trying to lock the door when you push the button? Can you feel downward pressure on the door lock button, or just apply a little downward "assist," and have the door lock when you push the button? Those symptoms would indicate a mechanical problem with all the rods, hooks, connectors, etc in the door. If the answer to all these is no, then the problem is more likely electrical. You chase this by opening up the door panel and checking for voltage at the lock actuator when you push the lock button. If you have voltage there, then the actuator is bad. If you don't, then you trace wires (PITA) to find the break. One weakness is in the wire bundle between the body and the door - the constant flexing can break wires in there. Since your problem is with the locking function, more important to fix. My door switch on the drivers door doesn't "unlock," and it's not the switch. I'm tall enough to reach the pass door to hit that switch, which works, so I have just ignored it. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Just read your edit: Definitely not electrical, since you see it trying to lock. Either binding in the locking mechanism, or the actuator is going bad on the "lock" side. Either way, easier to fix than chasing wires! And don't run - my '97 EB 5.0 has almost 240K and has required very little in the way of repairs. (Though I don't have to put up with the rust issues you do!)

 

[cm8809]

Run. I had a 98 5.0 EB. Bought it with 65k, although the engine and transmission were rock solid, anything and everything else went wrong with it. over the course of 2 years and 15k miles i put 5k intro it in repairs, and preventative maintenance. I finally broke down and bought a 04 EB, which has cost me nothing so far (fingers crossed). Good luck.

I love this truck too much to run away! It has a few minor problems - but nothing that's unfixable Sorry to hear you had bad luck.

Since you said the rear door locks operate normally, that indicates that the switches themselves and the control box for the locks are OK. Need to fugure out if your pass door lock issue is mechanical or electrical. Can you hear the actuator trying to lock the door when you push the button? Can you feel downward pressure on the door lock button, or just apply a little downward "assist," and have the door lock when you push the button? Those symptoms would indicate a mechanical problem with all the rods, hooks, connectors, etc in the door. If the answer to all these is no, then the problem is more likely electrical. You chase this by opening up the door panel and checking for voltage at the lock actuator when you push the lock button. If you have voltage there, then the actuator is bad. If you don't, then you trace wires (PITA) to find the break. One weakness is in the wire bundle between the body and the door - the constant flexing can break wires in there. Since your problem is with the locking function, more important to fix. My door switch on the drivers door doesn't "unlock," and it's not the switch. I'm tall enough to reach the pass door to hit that switch, which works, so I have just ignored it. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Just read your edit: Definitely not electrical, since you see it trying to lock. Either binding in the locking mechanism, or the actuator is going bad on the "lock" side. Either way, easier to fix than chasing wires! And don't run - my '97 EB 5.0 has almost 240K and has required very little in the way of repairs. (Though I don't have to put up with the rust issues you do!)

Thanks for the great advice. I'll let you know what I end up doing next. You seem like you're familiar with the inside of the door panels of our trucks - any ideas what I should try next with my windows? Is there a fuse for the power window lock? Or should I just find it's wires and trace them to see if it's cut somewhere?

 

[gtyates]

Just a guess on the power window issue, but my daughter drove a Mercury Tracer LTS a few years ago that developed a similar problem. A simple trip to the junkyard and purchase of a master control switch for the drivers door solved the problem.

On your replacement tires, the Michellin LTX M/S is a great tire on the Explorer. I have about 60k on the ones on my '96 and they still have half their tread depth left.

Welcome to the Gen. II club.

 

[janolsson]

The door lock is your actuator on the way out.
Inside it is a little plastic wheel that wears. Of course lubing the rods and lock mechanism will take some load of it but you may as well replace with a known good one and lube everything whilst you are in there.
Do a search for my threads and you will find some picks and description of how to change the lock motor.

The window problem sounds like the switch, change out with a junkyard one to test out.

 

[jrowe6]

the window child lock switch is just like a light switch, when the switch is set so the child lock is on it is an open circuit, when the child lock is off it is a closed circuit. it is easy to take apart, be careful not to lose the springs that will almost certainly come flying out, i lost one of mine and had to hunt down a suitable replacement. anyways, the thing is a bunch of copper looking plates and whatnot, i blasted the whole thing down with electrical parts cleaner and hit the child lock part with a scrubber to get the oxidation off, now it works like brand new.

 

[bobflood]

Re your windows: T agree with the other folks; sounds like your window lockout switch is bad. They are right on as to what to do; certainly work that before you start to chase broken wires.
Re your locks: Check out janolsson's threads for specific advice and pics as he suggests - good stuff. Small hands help.

 

[cm8809]

What % is the stock tint on the back windows and tailgate?

 

[cm8809]

Also, is the window lock switch a part of the master control switches? Or is it seperate.

Ps. So far I've ordered a new center console lid, a key fob, new door courtosy light covers, and 1 power lock actuator.

 

[gtyates]

I am not 100% certain on the Ex if it is one piece or not. I know on the Tracer it was and I suspect it is on the Ex as well.

 

[bobflood]

I know the door lock/unlock switch was a separate module, but I think that all of the window controls, including the lockout button, were in a single module. Been several years since I had the door apart, however, and the old memory ain't what it used to be! I would at least take a shot at disassembling/cleaning as jrowe6 suggested - what have you got to lose?

BTW - as a result of C4C program, there are a LOT of old Explorers in salvage yards. A number of the pieces you described above could be had from there for pennies on the dollar.

 

[cm8809]

How come there's an Ethernet port in my center console?

 

[ranger7ltr]

Not an Ethernet port...

It is for the factory handheld phone that you didn't get with the truck...That port gave me some ideas...

Since I use my Explorer for work and needed a portable inside of it, I did wire my power and USB to my indash aftermarket receiver...Now I can tap the MP3 reserves on my portable to play through the radio....I run a wireless receiver at the express port so communications is covered...