lockers for diffs

[eagle-keeper]

i currently have stock open diffs with 3.55 gears
i want to install lockers but i know nothing more about them than their existence
what types name brands are good ones and how much should i expect to pay
any other info would be great as well


also i finally got my 31X10.5's and they look good

 

[EB Bauer]

I would suggest the ARB lockers. I am not sure what they run as far as price but they are very dependable. I got mine used so I don't know what they run new. If you are thinking about putting in lockers have you ever thought about gears? I ran into the same question when it came time to put my lockers in. I figured since they had it all apart I might as well go with some bigger gears. so while they had it all apart I through in 4:56 gears. Hope that helps!

 

[eagle-keeper]

yes i plan on gears too but thats a much easier to resolve issue

 

[mattadams]

I would recommend the ARB too though I wouldn't quite say they were "dependable". We broke how many in Moab? 6? Mine took out the rear ring and pinion too which of course is not covered under warranty. They run about 650+install plus the install plus compressor/install. I have yet to find another locker that can be turned off (real important to me). Id wait to do both regear and lockers at the same time otherwise theyre setting gears twice.

 

[oharris]

Matt,
Your group broke six in Moab? How many were in the front diff and how many were in the rear? Were you in really nasty rocks, or was it fairly routine? I'm suprised to hear about that, I thought they were stronger than the axles in most cases.

Oliver Harris

 

[mattadams]

I think the majority were rears and most were broken at random times when the spider gears sheared. I know that's at least true for me, T.C. (he has the one for the newer model Explorers and it had the same flaw), and Jay. I believe Jay and Paul broke their fronts. Ryan broke his rear, his wasn't as major though.

 

[rockylaurence]

E/K; for the accational 4 wheeler I wouldn't recommend the ARB lockers, due to cost of the unit and the expense of install. It is nice to be able to turn off & on the units but at what cost--ARB'S cost 2-3 times the amount of other units (EZ lockers, Detroit locker, etc.). I have a (cheapy)
EZ locker infront that has operated flawlessly for 2+ years with 4:56 gears and 35" tires. Because of the performance of the EZ I'm going to install another (lunch box locker) in the rear. The front unit cost under $200 and was installed for $100. I will try and install the "gearless locker" in the rear myself (>$300). Hope this helps in the decission making process.

 

[ExplorGM]

Eagle Keeper

I installed a PowerTrax locker in the rear of my 95.(In preparation for Moab, which I did not make...) Easy install. The part cost $400.00 as it is the newer "smoother" model. The older model PowerTrax are about half the price. It works great off road. It is less convenient on the street than an ARB because of the chirp around corners and (probably) increased tire wear. Install was $0 though and accomplished in my garage. The first time I tried it, I went up a rutted (deeply rutted) hill in 2wd that I previously could not make in "4wd" before. Needless to say, I am happy with it!
Rick

 

[Tommy2000]

Confusion...

Matt...

Can you explain to me what it means when you say that you can'turn an ARB off'...? I am confused about lockers as well...I though that you just left the diff open, and then when you needed it, locked it up...is this incorrect?

Thanks,

T

 

[Tom Wilk]

Tommy, I think that what Matt was saying is there is no other locker EXCEPT the ARB that can be turned off, which is why he went with the ARB. Someday, someone may come out with one, but for now, ARB is it (except for a couple of factory units that are out there on other vehicles).

I do know that after TC's spiders went, he had to keep it locked to drive, which made it very interesting on sharp turns.

My understanding is that they've redesigned the unit that works in a Ford 8.8 rear end to make it stronger, since so many had lost their spider gears in Moab and probably elsewhere.

 

[rockylaurence]

Rick; did you have the factory L/S? Did you have to pull the carrier to remove the clutches etc? I plan on purchasing the P/Trax after I get my winch installed.

 

[mattadams]

yeah sorry thats what I meant... The ARB CAN be turned off and on from 100% off to 100% on which is why I went with it. The next time it goes out I might slap a Detroit in there or something, but for now it's the best I could find. With damaged spider gears, the ARB was stuck in ON, you couldn't disengage it. Every turn I made I was making terrible squeaking noise which I felt bad about driving through Moab at 11:30 at night squeaking around every corner, loud squeaking too. It's all fixed now though...

 

[ExplorGM]

Rocky

Mine does not have the L/S, so no clutches to pull.No carrier pulling should be necessary either way. There is a model PowerTrax available for the L/S I was told.
Rick

 

[Tommy2000]

More Help ;(

You guys are gonna think I am a dumbass, but can someone explain to me, (assume I know nothing), the concept behind a locker?

What I know is basically this- That it makes both wheels turn at the same speed...

But what I don't get, (among other things), is how ARB's "lock and unlock"...? That leads me to think that a locker of a different brand can't lock and unlock? So how do you drive on the street>?

If anyone can break this whole thing down for me to a Kindergarten level, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

P.S....So, how do you decide, if you are only getting one, to put it in the front or the back?

 

[mattadams]

I can help you out where I can. ARB uses compressed air to "lock/unlock". When the compressor is on and the switch turned to on, air is running from the compressor to the rear differential. This causes some gears to engage and makes it lock/unlock. Unfortanetly I don't know all teh details of it either, I'm sure someone on the list knows more then I do. HYPOTHETICALLY, as long as the locker is not receiving air, it will not be engaged. Unfortanetly the way mine broke, the gears that engage/disengage were broken so it was stuck in engage.

 

[GJarrett]

Tommy, to answer your PS, if you are only going to install one set, install the back. Usually when you need lockers it is to climb, and most of your weight will be sitting on the rear tires, not the front. Lock the back first, then the front later, if your budget only allows one at a time.

 

[Char]

Tommy,

That is correct. Most lockers are locked all the time. That's why many people have chosen ARB because they can be unlocked. The way I understand it. It's not so bad when it's the rear that is locked all the time, but if the front is locked you can just about forget turning.
Guys, please correct me if I am wrong. I may have it backwards. I do occassionally make mistakes.

 

[mrboyle]

For a "kindergarden" explination of how lockers work check out this:
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/faqs/diffs.html

 

[kvo]

Powertrax No-Slip Locker

I just had a No-Slip installed in my rear 8.8 (4.10) last week. Mine had a limited slip and the Powertrax unit was made for it. Easy installed, that's what the shop said.

The only difference in driving now is that I can't step on the gas in a turn because the inside tire will chirp. I'm still getting used to the idea of turning with momentum and not try to gas it in the middle of the turn, major tire chirp.

Other than that, there is no clunking noise, popping noise, or anything like that.

Regarding the front, Powertrax also makes a No-Slip but they said only for Explorers with manual hubs.

 

[BExplorer]

Locker

What I would like to know is if it is possible to unlock the front diff on 94 Explorer. and if it's possible without any major mechanic work.