Longer Driveshaft?

[jd4242]

is there any other vehicle or makes thats has a longer drive shaft that will work in our ex.like a 2wd explorer or van or f150?i got 5.5 with AAL and the other day the drive shaft came apart in the slip yoke.also how would i go about measuring the length in need and is there anywhere that sells longer drive shafts that aren't $300+

 

[IZwack]

You cant get it re-tubed for about half that cost. Measuring the length is from center of u-joint to the center of the other u-joint. So I would bolt up the current driveshaft and measure that distance.

 

[jd4242]

You cant get it re-tubed for about half that cost. Measuring the length is from center of u-joint to the center of the other u-joint. So I would bolt up the current driveshaft and measure that distance.

Can't?what kind of place would do that.i can look at it see there is only about an inch of the splines in the joint

 

[explorinitup]

there r a couple of shops that can do it around here

 

[IZwack]

Any driveshaft/driveline plaace should be able to retube a driveshaft.

 

[jd4242]

ok i got an idea and dont know if its been done before.what if i added a double cardan joint from the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft?they both use the same ujoint and it would add about 4" to it and some flex
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3359/MY_PI054.jpg

 

[IZwack]

ok i got an idea and dont know if its been done before.what if i added a double cardan joint from the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft?they both use the same ujoint and it would add about 4" to it and some flex
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3359/MY_PI054.jpg

A double cardan requires a different pinion angle and there's no way to bolt that up to the stock transfer case flange since that double cardan requires an yoke-type output. Search for driveshaft spacer, not sure if they are still available thoough.

 

[4x4junkie]

A double cardan requires a different pinion angle and there's no way to bolt that up to the stock transfer case flange since that double cardan requires an yoke-type output. Search for driveshaft spacer, not sure if they are still available thoough.

So replace the rear t-case flange with a yoke.

Pinion angle can be adjusted with axle wedge shims if needed (they go between the leafspring & axle perch).

A spacer would certainly work too though, however if the truck is lifted, a DC shaft has some benefits (especially if the shaft is relatively short, like on a 2-DR)

 

[jd4242]

Its a 4 door and has 5.5 lift with new springs and a AAL. what is the best options for me then.will just the joint out of my front work in the rear.or will a one from a 95-97 sport that has that joint or a ranger that has that and get lengthened. Or just keep what i got and lengthen it?i have 4.88s and a locker with 36-14.50 so it needs to be strong.

 

[IZwack]

So replace the rear t-case flange with a yoke.

Pinion angle can be adjusted with axle wedge shims if needed (they go between the leafspring & axle perch).

Yes thats possible. But at that point, the cost would probably be more than retubing the driveshaft.

Its a 4 door and has 5.5 lift with new springs and a AAL. what is the best options for me then.will just the joint out of my front work in the rear.or will a one from a 95-97 sport that has that joint or a ranger that has that and get lengthened. Or just keep what i got and lengthen it?i have 4.88s and a locker with 36-14.50 so it needs to be strong.

I doubt you'll max out the operating angle of the stock driveshaft. And I doubt you'll break the stock rear U-joint. The front drivetrain will probably give before the rear driveshaft component goes.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yes thats possible. But at that point, the cost would probably be more than retubing the driveshaft.

Huh? What's a junkyard get for a front t-case yoke????

 

[IZwack]

Huh? What's a junkyard get for a front t-case yoke????

like 5 bucks maybe - but is the front t-case yoke compatible with the rear? (spline count, major/minor diam and seal diam)

 

[jd4242]

why would i need to put the front yoke on the rear?if the front and rear both use the same ujoints why cant i just take the rear one ujoint out and put the DC joint in,one ujoint to the axle and the other to the driveshaft?

 

[IZwack]

Slide under the vehicle and it'll be obvious as to why.

 

[jd4242]

Slide under the vehicle and it'll be obvious as to why.

im sure im starring right at it but why?

 

[4x4junkie]

like 5 bucks maybe - but is the front t-case yoke compatible with the rear? (spline count, major/minor diam and seal diam)

Yes, on a 1354 they are fully swappable

why would i need to put the front yoke on the rear?if the front and rear both use the same ujoints why cant i just take the rear one ujoint out and put the DC joint in,one ujoint to the axle and the other to the driveshaft?

There's much more to it than that.
A DC driveshaft does not have a plain open yoke on the end, it has a centering ball & stud in the middle to hold the assembly from just flopping around all over the place, which the stud is an integral part of the end of the shaft. To put the DC end on a shaft that doesn't have one entails cutting out the weld and removing the piece that holds the single u-joint, then welding the component for the DC assy onto it.
It'll all become plainly obvious once you try to disassemble that DC unit.

 

[jd4242]

O ok got it.know nothing about them.i found a place that will retube mine for $120