Help! Stabilizer bar really loose!

[jweb1369]

Okay, so I just saw this tonight when going to install the new oil pressure sensor. I can't believe how loose this thing is (not sure what it's called). I've been driving with it like this for god knows how long. How tight should I tighten it? Check out the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYo-hXq9baI

 

[03 Explorer XLT]

You're missing the rubber bushing at the top. That's the sway bar end link. You can pick up a new one for about $20. I'd check the one on the other side too. You'll see how it should look, unless it's broke too.

 

[Lube]

For $20, you can replace all the end link bushings.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Go for $40 and replace the end links, and the sway bar body mounts as well. That'll tighten everything up nicely.

HERE is a writeup I did with pics so you can change them- simple tools only needed.

 

[jweb1369]

Alright thanks. I guess that's what I'll be doing this weekend. I was wondering what the culprit of the clunking sound was, pretty sure that is it.

 

[SoNic67]

You will be amazed what difference makes that bar - in turns and on bumps that are not parallel with your axle.

 

[swshawaii]

If you can wait. Sounds like they've been that way for some time. (Two kits recommended)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B000C57YMK?ie=UTF8&i=25

 

[jweb1369]

What is good about the moog? Do they fit 1999? It says 1998.

 

[swshawaii]

Moog uses stronger 7/16" bolts. Most other aftermarket replacements are 3/8".
Also softer thermoplastic rubber bushings, not polyurethane. Less harshness, IMO.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

 

[jweb1369]

I might pick them up at oreilly's they have them in stock right down the road, but double the price... They are still only $5-6 more than the ones at autozone.

What size bushing do I need for 1999 ford explorer 4.0L SOHC 2WD.

 

[swshawaii]

Should be the K80080. Several different sizes for the Explorer. (Double check)
If you don't have a caliper, use a crescent wrench for sizing. Convert mm to inches.

P.S.- If you get the Moog end links, DON'T overtighten them. (Very slight bulge)

 

[jweb1369]

Do you know the torque or is it stated with the product info?

 

[swshawaii]

IIRC the Ford manual specs the OEM front links @ 18 ft/lbs.
Unfortunately, the stock links are a different design with hard bushings.
Torque specs are innacurate for fasteners with bushings or lock nuts, IMO.
That is probably the reason Moog does not specify a torque value,
and specifies to tighten the grommets only until they slightly bulge.
The sway bar frame bushing brackets torque specs are listed at 30 ft/lbs.

 

[jweb1369]

Awesome thanks for the info everyone. I am going to get these probably tomorrow. I have to also get a floor jack and some jack stands. I just started really diving into fixing things on my truck. Hopefully it's not too late. I used to pay big10 to fix it for me, but I figured if they could do it I could too. They might be more vehicle educated, but I'm majoring in physics so it can't be that hard.

 

[swshawaii]

Floor jack is not needed if you can squeeze under the truck.
Link nuts will be easy to start having the frame brackets loose.
Important you tighten the links with the wheels on the ground.

 

[jweb1369]

Okay, so I replaced the bar end links and the bushings. I think I did it correctly, though not 100% sure. When I test drove it to the gas station it drove fine, real smooth, other than when I would go to turn at about a 45 degree angle it shakes. Like a shuddering shake. Maybe it's getting used to the new end links or the grease on the bushings? Am I supposed to grease the end links? Also, does it look like that is a good tightness for the moog end links?

Here are some photos of how it looks now.

Driver Side:

Passenger Side:

Oh and btw, my sway bar was 34mm and is just a straight bar. It doesn't have those bulges or connectors in the metal like the ones in other posts.

 

[swshawaii]

End link torque looks perfect. No lube needed, re-check tightness after driving.
Shudder sounds like air in the power steering. Should bleed itself after a short time.
The frame bushings should be lubricated, quite heavily. Good job!!!

 

[jweb1369]

Okay thanks. It's hard to tell if it is tight enough or not. I could still tighten it a ways before it starts to squish the rubber. The bolt is about 1/3 to 1/2 inch out of the bottom nut. I lubricated the frame bushing fairly. I just used some all purpose grease in a can, and rubbed it on with a cloth. I wouldn't say it is "heavy", but I think it's enough. I guess we'll see. I don't really wanna take it off again, lol.

I am going to a family members house tonight and back home again, it's about 10 miles one way. So I will let you know how it goes, and if the shudder in the steering subsides.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

You can bleed the steering by turning lock to lock a few times then turning off the engine with the wheel close to full lock on one side, let sit 5 minutes, start, turn back forth then turn off and let sit on opposite side. Maybe take you 10 minutes. Pretty regular occurance to get air in the powersteering when working on the front end of these trucks.

 

[jweb1369]

Oh is the middle part of the end link, I guess the "housing" supposed to spin or remain tight in between the washers?

You can bleed the steering by turning lock to lock a few times then turning off the engine with the wheel close to full lock on one side, let sit 5 minutes, start, turn back forth then turn off and let sit on opposite side. Maybe take you 10 minutes. Pretty regular occurance to get air in the powersteering when working on the front end of these trucks.

I'm not sure what you mean by lock to lock, and full lock.