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Looking for a good lift
- Thread starter foust123
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Glen4X4
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Yes
tweakedlogic
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3" BL and 2" springs will be 5" and cheap. You will have similar to stock handling on the street. YOu won't have a large investment in your springs when you upgrade to 4" SL. At that time you can decide if you want to keep the 3" BL.
That's what you do. Springs, shackles, 2 or 3" BL.
Body lift $155. http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/793.html
2" springs $130.
Warrior Shackles $79
That's what you do. Springs, shackles, 2 or 3" BL.
Body lift $155. http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/793.html
2" springs $130.
Warrior Shackles $79
tweakedlogic
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You don't want a 44 in the back. The rear axle is plenty strong. SAS up front can run about a grand, with you doing all the work. But you should expect it cost at least double that. There's a thread or two on here about solid axles. There kinda hard to find, but have great info. 
That set up will do reasonably well off road. But it's not the lift that's going to be your limit. It will be traction. An e-locker in both axles when you do you gears is best. And the HD manual hubs, and don't forget the gears. Selectable lockers are spendy. E-lockers are about $800 each axle. More for air lockers cause of the extra parts needed. You could try and find LS third members, but after you build them and all you have paid for one of your lockers.
I don't have lockers yet. Darn wife wants to keep paying for the heat or something.
It's obvious you are new to off roading, so take your time. Read lots of threads. Use the search feature when you get a hair brained idea. Since you are just learning, the last thing you need is a rig that will take you somewhere you don't know how to drive. Don't ever wheel alone. Learn your rig and your skills before you go big. you will only break things or you.
That set up will do reasonably well off road. But it's not the lift that's going to be your limit. It will be traction. An e-locker in both axles when you do you gears is best. And the HD manual hubs, and don't forget the gears. Selectable lockers are spendy. E-lockers are about $800 each axle. More for air lockers cause of the extra parts needed. You could try and find LS third members, but after you build them and all you have paid for one of your lockers.
I don't have lockers yet. Darn wife wants to keep paying for the heat or something.
It's obvious you are new to off roading, so take your time. Read lots of threads. Use the search feature when you get a hair brained idea. Since you are just learning, the last thing you need is a rig that will take you somewhere you don't know how to drive. Don't ever wheel alone. Learn your rig and your skills before you go big. you will only break things or you.
Glen4X4
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Going with a 44 in the back is taking a step back in durability, the 44 rear axle requires stronger shafts, trusses, where as the 8.8 will with stand alot more and no need for trusses.
rngmStr
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first gen X's are very capable offroad
Body lifts are OK. A lot of people don't like them -- mainly because you put more stress on the body mounts by raising them 3" -- especially if you have rusted out truck -- but mine worked great for years of wheeling.
The BL is the fastest, easiest way to gain some tire clearance.
By the way, getting WAY up in the air is not needed for real off-roading. In fact, it makes the truck way too tippy. Lift it just enough to clear your tires, and cut away the sheet metal that is still in the way. Keep it low and let the tires do the work.
1. Remove or make disconnects for the front sway bar. Cost = $5.00 for hardware hitch pins in 1/2" size. Drill out two holes and slip in the pins -- done. This allows much more travel in the front end.
2. Remove the rear sway bar. Cost = free. This allows for more rear travel and flex.
3. Remove the factory overload spring (the big flat one under the spring pack) on the rear springs and replace it with a generic full-length overload spring from Auto Zone or Pep Boys. Cost = $30.00 for the springs, $5.00 for new center pins. Soak the U-bolts with PB Lube, tap with a hammer to start the penetrating action, then loosen one side at a time. Remove the center pin on the leaves (they will then be loose -- have a friend to help). Stick a new center pin in, tighten the leaves together, then stick on the overload beneath them and tighten the U-bolts back down. This allows for more flex in the rear suspension.
4. Add longer rear shocks (4" lift shocks work good). Cost = price of shocks, from $25 to $100 (or free if you can find take-offs). You will need the extra length to make sure that the shocks are not your limit straps.
5. Add F250 front shock mounts to the front end in place of the stockers. Cost $30.00. Cut off the half of the spring perch that is the shock mount on the front suspension. You can do this with a cut-off wheel or torch (or even a hack saw or sawsall). Bolt on the new shock mount (watch for lines inside the frame rail). This mod allows for much longer front shocks that will give you about 15" of front axle travel.
6. F 350 Superduty front brake lines. Cost $50. This allows for maximum front travel without tearing lines. This MUST be done with the F250 shock mount mod.
7. Longer front shocks. Use the catalog and find 15" stroke two-eye shocks. Cost $25-$100 depending on shocks (or free take-offs). This allows for maximum front end travel.
8. Longer shackles for the rear springs. Cost $15.00 if you make your own -- $50+ if you purchase. This allows for a bit of rear lift and more articulation. Make 2" longer than stock.
9. 1975-1979 F150 coil springs. Cost $20.00 (salvage yard find). These are softer and flex much better than factory springs. They will not give lift, but they will give travel. Add a coil spring seat from an F150. Cost $30.00 to gain an extra 1.5" of lift.
10. 3" body lift. Cost $100. This will allow you to move up to 33" tires with the above mods. Otherwise, you can run 31" tires and have more travel than most Jeeps and other 4x4s you will run with.
Other modifications include moving the air intake to the top of the hood to stop the problem in filling the factory air box with mud and water. Cost $30.00. Use eBay cheapy hood scoop, and RV flexible plastic hose. Also works as a power adder.
Bumpers/skid plates/sliders. Find some water pipe and a friend with a welder. Go nuts. Cost = materals -- typically almost free if you scrounge around.
Total cost to build a truck capable of doing 80% of the off-road trails in America? Under $500. Deliver a few pizzas and get building.
Body lifts are OK. A lot of people don't like them -- mainly because you put more stress on the body mounts by raising them 3" -- especially if you have rusted out truck -- but mine worked great for years of wheeling.
The BL is the fastest, easiest way to gain some tire clearance.
By the way, getting WAY up in the air is not needed for real off-roading. In fact, it makes the truck way too tippy. Lift it just enough to clear your tires, and cut away the sheet metal that is still in the way. Keep it low and let the tires do the work.
1. Remove or make disconnects for the front sway bar. Cost = $5.00 for hardware hitch pins in 1/2" size. Drill out two holes and slip in the pins -- done. This allows much more travel in the front end.
2. Remove the rear sway bar. Cost = free. This allows for more rear travel and flex.
3. Remove the factory overload spring (the big flat one under the spring pack) on the rear springs and replace it with a generic full-length overload spring from Auto Zone or Pep Boys. Cost = $30.00 for the springs, $5.00 for new center pins. Soak the U-bolts with PB Lube, tap with a hammer to start the penetrating action, then loosen one side at a time. Remove the center pin on the leaves (they will then be loose -- have a friend to help). Stick a new center pin in, tighten the leaves together, then stick on the overload beneath them and tighten the U-bolts back down. This allows for more flex in the rear suspension.
4. Add longer rear shocks (4" lift shocks work good). Cost = price of shocks, from $25 to $100 (or free if you can find take-offs). You will need the extra length to make sure that the shocks are not your limit straps.
5. Add F250 front shock mounts to the front end in place of the stockers. Cost $30.00. Cut off the half of the spring perch that is the shock mount on the front suspension. You can do this with a cut-off wheel or torch (or even a hack saw or sawsall). Bolt on the new shock mount (watch for lines inside the frame rail). This mod allows for much longer front shocks that will give you about 15" of front axle travel.
6. F 350 Superduty front brake lines. Cost $50. This allows for maximum front travel without tearing lines. This MUST be done with the F250 shock mount mod.
7. Longer front shocks. Use the catalog and find 15" stroke two-eye shocks. Cost $25-$100 depending on shocks (or free take-offs). This allows for maximum front end travel.
8. Longer shackles for the rear springs. Cost $15.00 if you make your own -- $50+ if you purchase. This allows for a bit of rear lift and more articulation. Make 2" longer than stock.
9. 1975-1979 F150 coil springs. Cost $20.00 (salvage yard find). These are softer and flex much better than factory springs. They will not give lift, but they will give travel. Add a coil spring seat from an F150. Cost $30.00 to gain an extra 1.5" of lift.
10. 3" body lift. Cost $100. This will allow you to move up to 33" tires with the above mods. Otherwise, you can run 31" tires and have more travel than most Jeeps and other 4x4s you will run with.
Other modifications include moving the air intake to the top of the hood to stop the problem in filling the factory air box with mud and water. Cost $30.00. Use eBay cheapy hood scoop, and RV flexible plastic hose. Also works as a power adder.
Bumpers/skid plates/sliders. Find some water pipe and a friend with a welder. Go nuts. Cost = materals -- typically almost free if you scrounge around.
Total cost to build a truck capable of doing 80% of the off-road trails in America? Under $500. Deliver a few pizzas and get building.
foust123
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yea that would be a great way to do it but i really would like a spl instead of a bl i think they look better because i really want to bo it up nice right now i have the rockers off and cut out all the rust i just have to mount them and weld them on then fix the rust on the driver side rear quarter that lip around the fender is rusted through so some body work will come into play next sand down tthe truck and give it a nice orange paint job rhino line about 6'' of the bottom and throw in a short throw shifter and i would like to say im done for alittle
RustySJohnson
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My 4" lift Sold to Tweakedlogic
As for the lift on this particular 4" kit (trailmaster i think). If you go SOA in the rear with 1.25" spacers in the front, it's level. Puts you somewhere between 5 and 6 inches. The FA400 drop pitman is not tall enough, but it's driveable and predictable, squirelly mind you, but manageable. It would be spot on with the FA600.
The pitman arm is the 'Z' shaped thing in the ceter, attaches to your steering box. Displayed is the FA400 and the 4" kit.
As for the lift on this particular 4" kit (trailmaster i think). If you go SOA in the rear with 1.25" spacers in the front, it's level. Puts you somewhere between 5 and 6 inches. The FA400 drop pitman is not tall enough, but it's driveable and predictable, squirelly mind you, but manageable. It would be spot on with the FA600.
The pitman arm is the 'Z' shaped thing in the ceter, attaches to your steering box. Displayed is the FA400 and the 4" kit.
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tweakedlogic
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One clarification from rngmstr. The rear shackle you make has to be twice the lift you want. so if you want 2" lift, you would get shackles 4" longer. But yeah, what he said. I've incorporated most of it and love it. Though, I used later model F150 springs for 2.5" lift.
rngmStr
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Glen4X4
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Dude, you should search the forum a little bit so you can learn more about these trucks, it would help you alot.
rngmStr
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- '94 Eddie Bauer X
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