Lower ball joint replacement clarification

[stormadvisor]

I have read, I think, all of the posts regarding replacing the lower ball joints on my 4x4 '94 X. 25 pages worth , I would like a clarification please.

I read that you do not have to remove the hubs to replace these ball joints. If I got this right, I need to loosen the hub and pull it out a few inches to gain space. Correct?

I want to be sure before I get in over my head and really screw it up. My friend helping me has never worked on an X before so he is no help .

Thanks in advance.

BTW, I work 3rd shift and will not back it back here until late tonight. Makes work pass easier

 

[DeRocha]

I don't see how you can replace any ball joint without removing the steering knuckle . In the pic below I have completely removed the rotor, hub, spindle and stub axle shaft and there is still no room to press out the old ball joint. IMO If you're going to replace a ball joint you should replace both.. Do it right the 1st time and save yourself the trouble of having to replace the other ball joint several months later.

 

[dizzy6984]

Just Did Mine Today

I can tell you how to do it exactally, like the other post says, replace both, my drivers side upper was out, but the rest seemed fine, i replaced the upper and lowers, on both side, and new tierod ends while i had em off...

Anyways you have to remove the caliper, rotor, then the splash shield, and the five 15mm nuts on the hub, then tap it out with a punch from the backside, once the hub is off, pull the axle out, it fits through only when the steering knuckle is straight... Once your there its pretty much straight forward, remove the uppers snap ring, and the lower castle nut, if your lucky the cotter pin for the lower will come out, not mine i had to use a small punch and hammer to push the pin through, and as for the castle nut itself, i broke my breaker bar, but i finally got it loose, if your doing this with out air, you'll need a pipe to use for leverage...
The only tips i can give for this whole process, is
1) the 12mm bolt that clamps the upper ball joint, replace it while you have it out, my uppers came with new ones, one came out ok, but the other side was rounded, so replace those bolts...
2)while you have all the ball joints out, clean everything up, the holes the ball joints sit in and the upper sleeve, for the upper sleeve i took it to the wire wheel and cleaned it up so it would move freely when i put my X on the alignment rack Monday
3)invest in a ball joint press... Ive done plenty of ball joints with the hammer method, and this time i borrowed a co-workers ball joint press, WOW the difference was incredible, but the hammer method will work...
4) LAST and FINAL advise i can give is get your tires off and SOAK everything with penitrating oil, then go take a beer break... This is very critical, i used this new stuff by Liquid Wrench its a foam, and it sticks to the bolt instead of dripping off...
Other then that have fun it took me about 3hrs for the first side, and after i had the process down i did the other in about 1hr...
If you have ne questions let me know, i literally just finished mine an hour ago so catch me while its still fresh on my head...

 

[Brandons]

Ive been wondering too... trucks about ready for it being it has 1/3" play in the front right lower balljoint. While im at it im going to replace the front springs with (hopefully skyjacker 2" lift coils), bearings, radius arm bushings, shocks, and of course upper and lower ball joints. I have everything but the shocks and springs at this point. I might start pretty soon at it but my main concern is breaking any parts on it. I plan to start using penetrating oil about 4 days in advance to starting this project.


Also while im at er, is there anything else that I should replace? Tie rods had no play at all last time i checked, so i havent bothered looking for new ones. Also ive only got about 140k km on it (80-100k miles?) so i kind of doubt its at a point were id need to change much else.

 

[stormadvisor]

I don't see how you can replace any ball joint without removing the steering knuckle . In the pic below I have completely removed the rotor, hub, spindle and stub axle shaft and there is still no room to press out the old ball joint.

Where did I miss this in the other threads

IMO If you're going to replace a ball joint you should replace both.. Do it right the 1st time and save yourself the trouble of having to replace the other ball joint several months later.

I agree but I can't afford it right now

 

[stormadvisor]

I can tell you how to do it exactally, like the other post says, replace both, my drivers side upper was out, but the rest seemed fine, i replaced the upper and lowers, on both side, and new tierod ends while i had em off...

If I could afford it I would

i broke my breaker bar,

Ouch!

3)invest in a ball joint press... Ive done plenty of ball joints with the hammer method, and this time i borrowed a co-workers ball joint press, WOW the difference was incredible, but the hammer method will work...

Already have that.

Other then that have fun it took me about 3hrs for the first side, and after i had the process down i did the other in about 1hr...
If you have ne questions let me know, i literally just finished mine an hour ago so catch me while its still fresh on my head...

I hope it goes that quick

 

[Brandons]

The ball joints we got were about $30 each i dont know what the prices there are though (and thats Canadian)

 

[dizzy6984]

Ive been wondering too... trucks about ready for it being it has 1/3" play in the front right lower balljoint. While im at it im going to replace the front springs with (hopefully skyjacker 2" lift coils), bearings, radius arm bushings, shocks, and of course upper and lower ball joints. I have everything but the shocks and springs at this point. I might start pretty soon at it but my main concern is breaking any parts on it. I plan to start using penetrating oil about 4 days in advance to starting this project.


Also while im at er, is there anything else that I should replace? Tie rods had no play at all last time i checked, so i havent bothered looking for new ones. Also ive only got about 140k km on it (80-100k miles?) so i kind of doubt its at a point were id need to change much else.

Well like i said earlier replace the two bolts that clamp the upper, there 12mm 12pt bolts, and one of mine was already rounded, the other almost rounded before i got it to break loose, my uppers came with some new bolts, real nice ones... Ive got a habit of over doing things, Like if ive gotta bang the tie rod to much i will replace it, and if i see a bolt or stud that seems like it will shear off, or round soon, i will replace it...

I mean if your tearing all that apart, might as well replace that stuff, i also used a little anti-seize on the bolts...
But if all looks like its in good condition then leave it, but if u suspect something replace it, dont take the chance, expecially if ur like me out wheeling all the time...

 

[Rhett]

4) LAST and FINAL advise i can give is get your tires off and SOAK everything with penitrating oil, then go take a beer break... This is very critical, i used this new stuff by Liquid Wrench its a foam, and it sticks to the bolt instead of dripping off...

Hey nice find. I'm always up to try a new penetrating oil to see if it can beat PB Blaster. It would be nice to not have it dripping off all over the place.

 

[Rhett]

If I could afford it I would

Panhandle if you have to,...sell a kidney.,. to buy both balljoints. Believe me, ....it will be worth it to you in the long run to replace both at once. Much less hassle.

Once you tear it down to the steering knuckle, you've done 90% of the work to get the other balljoint out. You might as well do it.