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Lower Ball Joint Replacement

jasonb said:
on second gens, its just screwed into the hub assembly which is bolted to the knuckle. like gerald said just disconnect the wiring form the the little clips that run along the frame to give it slack and move the knuckle out of the way.

gerald... i think you needed a bigger hammer!! :D

Mine was simply bolted to the knuckle with a hex nut. After you remove that, you can take it out and it's out of the way.
 



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what is the average labor time for 4 balljoints on a second Gen


is it anything like the 1st gens, that are rated 3.5 hours per side?
 






RocksX said:
Does anyone here have like instructions on how to replace the lower ball joint on my '96?? I need to replace the driver's side, and should I replace both sides, or do you think it will be fine, i have 60,000 on it.


look at the 4th post in this thread.

also, i would strongly suggest anyone that is planning to do work on their own, get a manual. they are cheap and available at any autoparts store. i'm pretty sure autozone has the chiltons or haynes manual online in pdf format as well.
 






jasonb said:
look at the 4th post in this thread.

also, i would strongly suggest anyone that is planning to do work on their own, get a manual. they are cheap and available at any autoparts store. i'm pretty sure autozone has the chiltons or haynes manual online in pdf format as well.

I have the Haynes It pretty much says "See replace lower control arm assembly for 1995 model" But I assume the rest would be the same, just not removing the arm and pressing out the joint.
 






NOPE, $78.75 total after taxes and everything for the balljoint and the labor of the lower ball joint. :)
 






Is this the Ball Joint Press you are talking about?
I actually have the one that is even simpler (with only 2 sleves) and it worked perfectly... but I believe that the tools are the same except for the number of sleeves. We have a local store, and the sale price when I got it was 29.95. I'd buy it at 59.95 with the extra collars... They would come in handy in some instances.

Just make sure that you arrange the collars so that you can actually drive the joint out correctly. Even after doing it a time or two I found myself pressing against the press instead of pressing the ball joint out once. It takes using both sleeves and both end caps at times. Use common sense and look at what you are trying to do.

As for 1st gen ABS, mine didn't have it, so I can't comment. That seemingly would make a difference... Also sometimes the spindles can "freeze" to the frame requiring a bit of effort to remove. I usually just deliver a sharp blow with a rubber mallet, but I have had one set on a Dana 28 (Ranger) front that took a bit more effort.
 






Brokenben said:
I have the Haynes It pretty much says "See replace lower control arm assembly for 1995 model" But I assume the rest would be the same, just not removing the arm and pressing out the joint.
lol.. what's funny is i just looked at the ford CD for the replacement instructions to .pdf it and post a link to it here, and that's all it says too. great!!
 






Sallad420 said:
Have you tried Canadain Tire? They rent tools. I haven't asked if they have a press, but I'm sure they would.
No they don't. I did ask. He pointed me to a large display above the parts counter with all the tools that are available for rental, the ball joint press was not available.
 






I have the factory CD for the 97 and there isn't a word in there about replacing ball joints! They just assume that if they are bad the mechanic knows what to do, I guess.
 












jasonb said:
on second gens, its just screwed into the hub assembly which is bolted to the knuckle. like gerald said just disconnect the wiring form the the little clips that run along the frame to give it slack and move the knuckle out of the way.

I think there must be significant differences between 1st and 2nd gen here.

Oh if it were that simple on a 93-94. On a 91-92, or a Bronco II, it's just 5 bolts on the axleshaft seal and you're done with breaking down the hub/bearing/rotor to the spindle.
 






Link didn't work for me :(
 












Canadian Tire does have Ball Joint presses with their "loan-a-tool" program. All you need is a credit card that they keep on file till you return it (no charge)... not sure if you can leave a different form of deposit.
That reminds me, I should return the bearing lock nut socket that I borrowed a few weeks ago....
 






btw - there is no "renting" the tool, there is no charge provided you return it..... eventually.
 






I don't want to waste bandwidth. But I had to verify with Can Tire again. I just call up the new store at Markham and 14th to double check if the ball joint press is available the answer was still no. They only have the ball joint remove tool, the pickel fork only, no ball joint press. Can you verify with your CAN Tire store, if they have it at Orangevill, I would of gone up there to get it, it is not that far from Toronto.
 






I apologize, you are correct. They have the removal tools but no presses. You'd almost think that I dont work for CTC??
sorry to waste your time!
 






I just don't understand why it is so expensive to have a shop replace the lower ball joints. I do not have an extensive supply of tools and my buddy and I replaced both sides in his parking lot in less than 3 hours (2 for the first and 1 for the second). And it's a 4x4!

We also replace sway bar bushing and end links at the same time.
 



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