MAJOR issue!!!! Please HELP!!

[$100horse]

Today I replaced my starter solenoid. Disconnected the negative terminal of the battery, changed out the solenoid, and started the truck, seemed fine. It was daylight.

Tonight, I was driving and noticed that the light on the radio started to get dimmer.
Then, the ABS light came on.
Then, the airbag light came on.
Then, all the dash lights got dimmer, and the interior lights wouldn't come on. Then, the headlights started to get VERY dim.

What the h3ll did I do????????


Oh, and, the speedometer stopped working?????

 

[jlsparky7]

Sounds like a bad ground to me. Double check your grounds. Disconnect them, clean them and reconnect.

 

[coonerboy]

Also, check your fuses for those circuits that are showing syptoms (Speedo)

 

[Mbrooks420]

I wouldn't suspect the fuses. I'd suspect a low voltage problem. Check the voltage across the battery terminals if you have a multimeter, and try cleaning the grounds, as suggested above.

 

[youneek28]

I agree with brooks. I fuse either works or it doesn't. Simple test here. Start the car and place the volt meter on the battery. It should be reading 13V or more. If it doesnt then the alternator is bad, and it it does then the battery is probably bad. The good thing about these two things is that you can have the tested at an auto parts place.


My money is on the alternator

good luck

 

[corkey]

might be a wire left off by mistake,

 

[coonerboy]

I only suggested a fuse because i was installing my EATC and when I got done, my cig lighter wasn't working and my 4wd low light was glowing very dimmly. Fuse was blown. Changed the fuse and the 4wd low light went out.

 

[$100horse]

And THIS is why I belong to forums.

Went out and checked on it this morning. I DID, in fact, miss the wire from the alternator to the solenoid. The connector ring fell behind another wire and I didn't see it.

Now, before I screw anything ELSE up...

There is a thick wire with a double connector. Not rocket science, one end goes on the top of the solenoid, one on the bottom, and, its preformed. Easy enough.

Then, the thick wire from the alternator to the solenoid, a thinner wire, and the very thing wire (mine has a red plug on it) that goes on one of the small connector prongs on the solenoid.

Do the alternator wire and the smaller wire both go on the bottom connector? I know I should know this, but, my short term memory is shot.

By the way, it started right up this morning, before I popped the hood.

Thanks for the help, guys!

Jes

 

[$100horse]

Okay, did a web search for "starter solenoid ford explorer images" and got this:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168889 (Man, I LOVE this site!)

As stated in the post there, all the wires came off of one post (I asked my g/f, who has the better memory of the two of us [just ask her, she'll tell you]) and she said that's the way it looked when I took them off.

As stated before, I went out this morning and it started right up. Now, I've disconnected the negative terminal, put the alternator wire back on, and then, reconnected the terminal. It tries to start now, but, it will turn over once, then, click.

Is there a likelyhood that I fried out my alternator, or, should I just try and jump start it and see what happens.

 

[corkey]

jump start it, and messure the voltage at the battery , if it goes up with rpm's, the alternator is fine,, should go up to about 13.8 to 14.8 volts when running, ,,

 

[youneek28]

As you know, your car runs off your battery. The battery gives off 12 volts which is the same voltage as everything need in your car. Your alternator needs to give off more than 12 volts because if it didnt the battery would never charge. So your alternator runs between 13 to 14 volts to not only run the 12 volt stuff through the battery but the 1 or 2 extra volts are for charging the battery. If your car wouldn't crank it means that the battery isn't charged which is the function of the alternator.

Since a wire was off, just jump it off and check the volts on your battery while its running and you should see that 13 to 14 volts i was talking about


If you knew all this I apologize but some people dont.

 

[scottdunahoo]

try resetting the computer

 

[corkey]

if the battery died, or was unhooked for 45 seconds, no need to reset the computer , it is already done,

 

[$100horse]

Took all the wires off, reconnected them. Then, jump started it and drove it around (nice big fire going on at NASA right now). Drove it back home and parked it, let it set for a few minutes. Turned the key over and it fired right up.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again...
I LOVE THIS FORUM!!!

Thanks for all the help, guys!

 

[corkey]

what kind of fire, ??

 

[$100horse]

what kind of fire, ??

It's a controlled burn of the lands around the pads. They do them all the time. This one just happened to be really sizable. Probably something to do with an instant weather change from low 90s to high 60s in 24 hours.


After the fact, I took the X in to Auto Zone and had the alternator and battery tested. The alt was fine, but, the battery was for crap, so, replaced it, and all seems to be well.


The check engine light has been on for about 2 weeks. Had it scanned about a week ago, and it showed it was an EGR code.

I had this happen in an Acura Legend once and started with the O2 censors, then, the EGR sensor, then, eventually, the cat. It stayed on, so, I blew it off, and eventually sold it.


Any ideas on a good starting point for EGR codes? Thanks.

 

[youlostme21]

what was the code? the DPFE sensors go bad all the time. Could also be the egr valve itself. Put the code up if you need some help

 

[$100horse]

I'll find out tomorrow again, (they just told me it was an "EGR code"). Then post it tomorrow evening.

Thanks.

Jes

 

[$100horse]

what was the code? The dpfe sensors go bad all the time. Could also be the egr valve itself. Put the code up if you need some help

p0401

 

[corkey]

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/egr-explained.php