Making Oil - I'll be Rich! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Making Oil - I'll be Rich!

If it is bad you can likely smell it on the dipstick or just open the fill cap on the top of the engine. At least I could on a Mustang of mine when we got the tune off and ran it too rich.

As for engine damage haha that is what the warranty is for right lol well that is what Lincoln told me about mine leaking oil.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If it is bad you can likely smell it on the dipstick or just open the fill cap on the top of the engine. At least I could on a Mustang of mine when we got the tune off and ran it too rich.

As for engine damage haha that is what the warranty is for right lol well that is what Lincoln told me about mine leaking oil.
I did check the oil that I had on hand, and it does have a unique smell to it. It is the Synthetic Blend, which I admittedly am not used to. There seems to be the scent of fuel though, but not as strong as I would have guessed.

Statements like that from a dealer make me cringe. If they are going to extend the warranty out to 250k miles for the engine, then I'll just drive it and not worry! I didn't plan on having a "sell by" date on my car because of the warranty. I wanted to drive it an not worry. So far, no luck there!
 






I did check the oil that I had on hand, and it does have a unique smell to it. It is the Synthetic Blend, which I admittedly am not used to. There seems to be the scent of fuel though, but not as strong as I would have guessed.

Statements like that from a dealer make me cringe. If they are going to extend the warranty out to 250k miles for the engine, then I'll just drive it and not worry! I didn't plan on having a "sell by" date on my car because of the warranty. I wanted to drive it an not worry. So far, no luck there!
Oh that comment was from Lincoln not the dealer. They did offer me a free extended warranty though.
 






Got the car back and the dealer and they told me that the oil dilution is "no cause for concern". I guess that's a matter of opinion. Seems like my only option at this point is to change the oil at 5,000 miles, do another analysis and see what it is at. For anyone's curiosity the last reading was 3% at 7,600 miles. That is exactly what it sounds like, 3% of the fluid I removed when changing oil was fuel and not oil. It does appear to be quite a prolific issues with these engines, as there are several threads on the F-150 forums detailing these issues. Some much more severe than I am experiencing. I would love to see analysis reports from any of the other Explorer forum members for comparison.
 






I think at this point, I'm just going to have to wait on the dealer to see what they find or say. I'll do another test at 5,000 miles and see what that report comes back at. I wasn't sure if anyone else had done analysis on their oil and had similar or different results.



Driving style is not aggressive, and most trips are 30 minutes or longer with the car definitely up to temperature. Idle time is only as long as the car will go before the auto-stop kicks in. I am not driving this vehicle any different than the Nissan Frontier I had before it. It's last oil analysis at 200k miles on that one didn't show this kind of fuel dilution.


I am kind of thinking the same thing. My fuel mileage recently has been less than previous so having them check things out will be peace of mind as well. It does bother me that the viscosity has dropped below recommended, after only 3/4 the recommended oil use.


Fairly sure the Manual for the Explorer on the 2.3L shows 5.2qt. The Mustang may have a different oil filter/ cooler/pan that accounts for additional oil requirement. The car had close to 6qts in it when I drained it though. I won't be able to say with 100% certainty that it wasn't overfilled, but by 1/2-3/4 of a quart is a gross amount to overfill.

That sounds like the dealer over filled it with oil, 6 quarts versus 5.2, and that might be common if there are multiple versions of an engine using different oil amounts.

I suggest using a better oil(the best that you can), plus change it more often. 7500 miles or more is a best case scenario, when everything is working ideally and the oil isn't getting contaminated etc. 10k miles is nuts to me for a stock vehicle and plain oil, plus a plain filter. I have gone that long before, but only with the best oil and their best filter, plus their air filter. I watched the level and the oil condition constantly, and it was great at over 9000 miles.

That was Amsoil Signature series, their original Signature oil. Now they have made improvements, plus there are several versions which are new. Those I would go one year with at any mileage up to 15-25k, depending on usage. But I wouldn't just pour that in and assume I'm fine to go one year without any checking etc, forever. The oil analysis is a great tool, use that to watch the oil condition, to zero in on the ideal change intervals.

BTW, the air filter is essential to oil condition, almost all contamination in the oil comes through the air filter. Don't leave one on too long, that will foul the oil black quickly if it's a junk filter or falls off etc. K&N filters suck, they allow the most particles through, which ends up in the oil.
 






That sounds like the dealer over filled it with oil
I think the dealer may have overfilled it, maybe 5 1/2 quarts instead of 5.2. There is still the fact that 3% of the 'oil' I took out of the car was fuel. I highly doubt they dumped gas in there.
I suggest using a better oil
No offense, but this statement kind of rubs me the wrong way. I would hope that the Ford dealer that I purchased the vehicle from used the recommended oil. For the entirety of the warranty period, I have planned on using the appropriate Motorcraft oil and filter, since these are what is specified by Ford. Since I do my own maintenance, I want no reason for any warranty issues to be refuted. After the warranty period however, the oil I put in the vehicle with not be purchased from the dealer.

The thing biggest thing about all of this is the recommended interval from Ford on this vehicle is 10,000 miles. Both the owners manual and the Intelligent Oil Life Monitor reflect this interval. I know there are "3,000 mile" and "5,000 mile" advocates out there, but manufacturing technology has come a long way since the 60's when 3k miles was required. If I had not tested the oil and took Ford at it's published (and actively monitored) word, then I would STILL be running a fuel diluted oil thru my engine. Will it make 100,000 miles? Probably. Will it wear prematurely? Yeah. Fact is the viscosity of the oil is being reduced and not allowing the proper lubrication.

Again, no offense is meant. I do just wish that we had more information to compare my oil report to. If this is abnormal, then obviously I'd like it repaired. If this is the norm for these engines, then I agree that a shorter oil change interval would be beneficial to the life of the engine. Knowing that would be good information for all in the community to get the most out of their vehicles as possible.
 






The fuel in the oil should be negligible. The fact that it is a lot, that is the main issue.

You or most people may not know this, but the OEM is not much interested in your vehicle's used condition lifespan beyond what they are warrantying. They long ago decided new platinum plugs(existing decades and more before then) were good enough for 100k miles. That was also the time frame when the OEM was pressured by new car companies like Saturn who began with long warrantee periods. Before that, 50k was common, and 60k was the high end. So they increased the warrantee to 100k to match, and then pushed the service intervals to save them some money. That required the platinum plugs and synthetic oil etc.

Bottom line, new technology is great, but the economic forces are the main priority for all companies. Car makers have always used whatever is just "good enough" to last in majority, until the warrantee expires. That means they do not use the best parts, oils etc, unless they have to, again, to reach through the warrantee period. That is why they recommend 10k intervals, for sales purposes, not for best engine lifespan. They are relying on modern oils to survive the extended periods, and bad owners who will go beyond those.

So I do mean to offend if you don't realize the facts, the OEM is not looking out for your best interests, and nor are the dealers. Here on a forum was are unlike them, we care very much for the vehicles and the owners. We strive to make them the best they can be, and that means finding the best parts, and fluids, available.

Dig around online, you will find tons of stories about plugs that are hell to remove, and terribly worn when they finally get changed. The same goes for oil, the change interval is a big subject. The manufacturer only cares that they don't have to spend excessively on service work while under warrantee. Most engines will last 100k miles with 10k oil changes, using OEM recommended oil. I personally don't want my engine to use a quart of oil per month after it's 100k miles old.

To make an engine last as long as possible, use the best oil you can for the money you can afford, regardless of OEM recommendations. They used to use dino oil, and recommended it, for decades after synthetic was available. Stop assuming they care about you, they do only while selling you the vehicle and until they have no liability for it.

Spark plugs, plug wires, oil and many fluids should be changed much more often than OEM tells you to. People get complacent and they forget to do plugs, and never do them, and the 2nd owner finally discovers the problem when they have 150k miles on them. The extended intervals are bad for the vehicles, good for the OEM, and bad for owners after the vehicle is past warrantee of 100k miles. Today's used cars are worse than any were in the past, due to poor maintenance. Too many people believe the OEM and dealer recommendations, as being good for the car and them.
 






I did 30k mile oil changes on my 2012 focus GDI. Rotella T6 oil and Ford filters. At 200k miles the engine drove like new still pulling 36mpg and under the valve cover looked like new. I beat the **** out of my cars. Oil discussions are stupid and rarely have any real science just people that are passionate about there overpriced oil. Use common sense if you drive like an old lady and a lot of stop and go you will be 5-6k oil changes. I beat the crap out of this 2.3 and at 25mpg and 10k oil changes, I’m running Mobil 1 for now but might change back to diesel oil.
 






I did 30k mile oil changes on my 2012 focus GDI. Rotella T6 oil and Ford filters. At 200k miles the engine drove like new still pulling 36mpg and under the valve cover looked like new. I beat the **** out of my cars. Oil discussions are stupid and rarely have any real science just people that are passionate about there overpriced oil. Use common sense if you drive like an old lady and a lot of stop and go you will be 5-6k oil changes. I beat the crap out of this 2.3 and at 25mpg and 10k oil changes, I’m running Mobil 1 for now but might change back to diesel oil.

Neglect is what ruins most cars, and the extended interval recommendations just encourage people to push the limits. If you take care of your car well, you can beat the crap out it, and I do too BTW. I have had many coworkers with terrible car troubles that end up being bad care, a control arm(BJ) or TRE breaks, the coolant leaks constantly and they blow a head gasket etc.

For oil to stay in top condition for a long time, always install a quality air filter, and keep that fresh regularly.
 






D1G2 Or Dexos Gen2 Oil is the latest and greatest and address some issues with GDI. If you spend time on the oil forums many 2.3 owners like Castrol Magnatec 5w30 Full Synthetic. I have not used it and im on my first extended oil change with mobil Dexos2 so i can't say anything yet. Lets remember this engine is going on 15 years old.
 






I use the Magnatec synthetic oil often, that's the lowest cost Castrol synthetic. It only costs about $17 for 5 quarts, from Amazon. My cars right now don't justify a high end oil, they are just stock engines with high mileage. I use oils that on Amazon cost between the $17, and about $23, Valvoline, Castrol, or Pennzoil. It's very hard to extend intervals when the engine uses a quart per month.
 






The fuel in the oil should be negligible. The fact that it is a lot, that is the main issue.
You are correct, I did not intend this to become a 'What oil to use thread' or anything similar. Brand/Viscosity/Interval are all topics covered in a plethora of other threads. The vehicle is adding fuel to the oil and it is causing a lowered oil viscosity. In 4k miles I'll do another change, having eliminated all the unknown variables from earlier and see what those results are. I was really hoping other members had tested their oils and had reports to compare. Only place i can find oil report information is the F-150 forums, but was hoping to compare apples to apples.
 






I'd keep looking for other examples, concentrate on just the same engine as yours. In other models, those should have the same affects, and possible answers too.
 






Im running into an issue as well, oil change @ 7k miles M1 Ext Performance, dealership @ 3k) i did notice gas smell in the oil. Didnt think anything about it. 2 weeks ago i installed a catch can and the oilly gas smell got worse. After seeing this thread i went out and checked the oil and it is high. Its above the high hole mark on the dipstick. Im **** about this and i know the level was dead nuts after filling. 1st how much oil is too much oil, and 2nd where can i send my sample to get checked?
 






I just changed the oil in mine last week and 5.2 quarts put mine over the full mark cold. Your assuming the dipstick is accurate.
 






where can i send my sample to get checked?
I send all of my samples to Blackstone Laboratories. They've always had pretty good turn around on results and the sample kits are free. (Analyzing the samples costs though) They have a nice writeup of the analysis as well to explain how the sample is compared to their database of averages and what to look for and or keep an eye on. Not trying to shill for them, but I've had good experience and it would be nice to compare my results to some from others in the community using the same testing. I'm about a thousand miles from my next oil change and we will see what it looks like then. My oil level does seem higher, but as mentioned the dipstick isn't exactly calibrated or the most accurate. I will definitely be measuring the oil removed though because I know exactly how much went in.

2 weeks ago i installed a catch can and the oilly gas smell got worse.
This is very interesting. Suggestions from earlier seemed to tout a catch can as the sure-fire solution to this issue. If you're not seeing issues with one installed, that would send me back to the drawing board for options.
 






I just changed the oil in mine last week and 5.2 quarts put mine over the full mark cold. Your assuming the dipstick is accurate.
If the dipstick mark is not something to rely on then what is? Did you check the level after running the engine for a while?

Petyer
 






Minor point, a lot of people do not check the oil with the vehicle on perfectly level ground. The dipstick is accurate if you check it carefully with the vehicle on a dead level surface, wiping the dipstick well before checking it.
 






I know I should have checked it 15 mins after shut off hot, but I didn't. It was over the mark 15 mins after I ran it just long enough to check for leaks and fill the oil filter up. (cold)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I know I should have checked it 15 mins after shut off hot, but I didn't. It was over the mark 15 mins after I ran it just long enough to check for leaks and fill the oil filter up. (cold)
Just check it again, more than once. Getting an accurate reading is not hard by simply checking it twice or more, especially the transmission. The trans dipstick often will show high on one side because it touches the dipstick tube, getting ATF on it. Those you figure out which side measures right, and look at just that side.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top