Manual Hubs and a wheel bearing question

[poconosms1]

Now that I have manual hubs,

1. What happens if I activate the 4x4 from the inside of the vehicle without getting out. I.e. I'm driving down the roat at 35 mph, hubs are free, and suddenly find myself on a snow covered road. SOL?

2. How fast can I drive with the 4x4 and munual hubs engaged?

3. What happens if I deactivate the 4x4 from inside while driving - leaving the hubs locked.

4. If the hubs are locked and the 4x4 is not engaged, what is the maximum speed I can travel? What is the maximum speed I can travel and engage the 4x4 switch?



Bearing Question

How can you tell if Bearings are going bad?

 

[ahhjaws]

Pretty much manuals work the same as auto, except you need to turn the hubs first.

1. Nothing. you have to stop and turn your hubs before putting it in 4WD.

2. Same as with autos, I wouldn't go very fast in 4WD.

3. I do this when I'm not sure if I will need 4WD. The button activates the 4WD. This way you don't have to stop and get out to turn the hubs.

4. Any speed. Same as in autos I think, 45mph to engage?

Bearings will probably be making a awful sound, but mine have never needed replacing yet so I don't really know. You could probably tell by looking at them.

 

[MrShorty]

1) Unless you've anticipated the need and locked the hubs previously (see 3&4), you'll have to stop, get out and lock the hubs, then engage the transfer case to get 4x4. If you engage the transfer case w/o locking the hubs, it will have spin the front drivetrain, but no power will be transfered to the front wheels.
2) In 4H, will depend more on conditions than the drivetrain mechanicals. If conditions are such that you can drive safely above 45-50, there's probably enough traction that you should be in 2H anyway. Top speed in 4L is the same as before.
3) The front drivetrain continues spinning, but receives no power from the transfer case. because it's not locked to the rear, it can spin at a different speed, and no damage will occur. Because it is spinning, it causes a small amount of additional drag which will lower mpg a little, and will cause some insignificant wear to the front end. I find it useful to remember that the earliest 4x4's, and many of the latest models, didn't even use locking hubs. I think it's more accurate to call them "freewheeling" hubs, because they allow you to disconnect the front axle from the wheel when there is no need for 4x4. Locking the hubs before you need the 4x4 makes things more convenient.
4) I've gone 75/80 with the hubs locked in 2H. As long as the front axle has been built to wear like the rear, it should handle the equivalent of 100K miles worth of spinning. Remember, not all 4x4's even allow the front axle's to be disconnected from the wheel.