Master Cylinder Reservoir?

[PCTechman]

I am going to replace my master cylinder; how do I take the plastic reservoir off the old unit and do I need to replace any o-rings or seals?

 

[Anime]

The new master cylinder comes with a new reservoir and tube, you don't need to do anything except unbolt the old reservoir and reattach the new one.

 

[PCTechman]

No Reservoir

This is a 91 Ex, the rebuilt unit does not include a reservoir, it must be transferred over from the old unit. Some of the plastic reservoir types just come off with a pry bar and some have a retaining or roll pin. I was asking because I've never done one on an Ex before and didn't want to bust it up by forcing it if there's a pin or something else I need to remove first.

 

[Anime]

All the first gen's I've seen just have a small screw/bolt holding the reservoir to the firewall, the tube from the reservoir to the master cyl. is just clamped on, shouldn't be much to it, really.

Is the rebuilt master cyl. the same as the one it's replacing? If you buy a new master cyl. from Ford, they have a newer design which solves the air pocket issues of the original, though from my experience, it's a lot harder to push down the clutch pedal with the newer one.

 

[PCTechman]

It just has 2 bolts attaching it to the power brake booster. The only visible connections are the 2 tubing lines to the brakes and the electrical sending unit to the dash. Upon closer inspection, the new unit I just picked up only has 2 new seals where the reservoir connects, no bolt holes or any place for a roll pin. It looks like you just push it on and it locks in with the ribs on the inside of the seals. I asked b\c I've been fooled/foiled before with my Explorer and just wanted to be sure there wasn't a hidden C clip or something!

 

[PCTechman]

Got It Done, But Can't Bleed The Rear ABS Brakes...

I was able to just pry the reservoir off & installed the new master cylinder after I bench bled it. I started to bleed the brakes but I can't seem to get the rear ones bled correctly, not getting a strong flow, just a dribble. The rears are ABS and the dash light is on. Anything I missed doing with the rear ABS? Running out of daylight, (I'm working outside) I'll continue this tomorrow.

 

[Anime]

Whoops, my info was given based on the assumption you were replacing the clutch master cyl, not the brake booster.

Bleed the brakes rear to front, starting with the passenger rear, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then drivers front. If you have a vacuum pump it can help to pull the fluid to the back before using the pedal to bleed.

 

[King$nake]

I think you were exactly right. I just got done doing the master cylinder swap, and now my brakes are fine. Its still a bit mushy, probably because I havent bled them entirely at each caliper, but I have brake pressure now. Thanks for all your help guys

 

[Roadrunner777]

Anyone ever try the speed bleed screws with the one-way valve built in?

 

[msmith65]

Anyone ever try the speed bleed screws with the one-way valve built in?

I used those on another type of vehicle and they are awesome.

I changed the brake fluid out once a year on that car, just because I could.

 

[Iron Weasel]

Anyone ever try the speed bleed screws with the one-way valve built in?

+2 for the speed bleeders.

They do tend to make a bit of a mess though, so you may want a piece of hose over them so you can direct the flow a little bit.

Also, when you bleed the brakes, go in the following order:

1) Rear passenger.
2) Rear driver.
3) Front pasenger.
4) Front driver.