Mods for improved towing?

[offroadford4x4]

Here's my deal, 94 XLT 4x4 auto 4dr and it tows terrible. I was towing my tempo on my car dolly and only got a 1/4-1/2 mile down the road and turned around came back home and swapped the Explorer out for our Escape cause of how crappy the sploder was.

What it did was bounced the back up and down constantly which was annoying in itself but at the same time on a straight road it was also fishtailing side to side a fair amount. It just felt very unstable and just didn't seem safe to tow with. It drives just fine when not towing anything. And I did check the tire pressures before leaving.

I know the basics would be to get a frame mounted class III hitch as I only have a ball on the stock bumper, But I don't thing that would cause the driving issue. And a larger trans cooler with maybe a shift kit.

What else would be good add? heavy duty sway bars? Add A Leaves? (don't want the harsher ride) shocks? shift kit? Or just now worry about towing with it and keep using the Escape? Our Escape has the factory trailer tow package with the 3500 lb max rating on the stock class II and tows my Tempo like it's not even back there, and that is being literal. Only thing thats diff when towing with that is lil longer stopping distance. No bounce, no sway, no odd handling, etc. And it just seems wrong that a unibody chassis that is primarily fwd with selectable 4x4 in a tiny suv (several feet shorter than explorer) with 4 wheel independent coil suspension can out tow a full frame truck based rwd 4x4 with solid axle and leafs with such a drastic difference. And the explorer as equipped rated @ 3200 lb.

 

[Jason94sport]

Frame mounted hitch would help. Better shocks in the rear. New Bushings on the sway bar.
New leafs.

 

[Flip4ford]

I am betting the tow arm of the tow dolly was not level. Having it too high will cause the issues listed above. Tow dollys are fairly fickle in that reguard. Class II hitch will lower the tow point and it should tow allot better.

 

[Maniak]

Part of it may be nice and soft (read worn) springs. They are 17 years old and most likely are a little flatter than they were stock. That is great for rock crawling, not so much for towing but can be used.

Also, if the front end is loose you'll be over correcting quite a bit which will in turn start swaying the trailer.

As already mentioned, if you don't get the trailer (dolly in this case) setup right it will tow like crap. I've pulled a pallet of block with our X, on the bumper (yea, I know, close to the limit) but since the trailer was also lifted things sat right and rode well.

Another example is that for about 1 year we would carry 210 gallons of water in a trailer 2-3 times a week. Again on the bumper and that was at Arizona Freeway speeds (70+mph). Both of those examples were on soft rear springs (OME-36) but with a trailer setup correctly, decent shocks (rs9000's set tight) and tight front suspension.

~Mark

 

[tweakedlogic]

I would also recommend a hitch, though a class three. There is actually a hitch that spreads the load more so you have less rear sag. It's a bit more complicated to install as there are "arms" that connect to the frame farther up front. You might want one of those adjustable drop ball mounts, but I prefer to have a couple different drop lengths.
Make sure your rear shocks and springs are in good repair. Front end alignment is probably in order too.
If you are going to regularly be towing heavy loads, I would also suggest an auxiliary trans cooler and a step down in gearing.
Full synthetic lubricants are great. I have enjoyed cooler running cars and trucks as well as a slight increase in fuel economy.
Also, increase your tire pressure at least on the rear. Don't pay attention to the suggestions on the door frame. Remember the Firestone debacle? I run 35 PSI in all my tires for normal driving. I found I have even wear with that set up. When I'm towing a heavy load, I'll up the rear to about 40 or 45.

 

[bftank]

correct trailer geometry and airbags. check leaf spring and shackle bushings for dry rot.

 

[zero_psi]

a big flex a lite trans cooler it will save u a ton of pain in the butt

 

[jadatis]

If the Explorer is of the period before the Ford/Firestone affaire, the advices in the door are to low.
You can re-calculate it with the European Formula, that is since 2006 also used in America ( coincidence, after the Affaire was rounded ????).
I once got hold of the European formula and worked it out in spreadsheets, Translated a few to English to go worldwide with it.
Declared the formula Holy , but by reacting on American fora, came to the Ford/Firestone-affaire and an article of J.C.Daws, an American, with a new calculation method, and comparison with the in 1928 introduced, and for radial tires adjusted, formula with a power in it, and its different used powers in America and Europe.
Best is to give me the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR) of the car and the maximum load of the P-tires you have ( I asume, also called Standard load SL)
then I will calculate the pressuses the European way, wich is used here since decades for every kind of tire, and proved to be save for SL and XL tires.

You may try it yourselves with this spreadsheet
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=a526e0eee092e6dc#!/?cid=a526e0eee092e6dc&id=A526E0EEE092E6DC!597
and from there you can navigate my complete public map of skydrive.
press the I for info at the end of the line to get info on the right side , there choose download, then open in Excell or compatible program to work with it.

I am writing this all , because the way you describe the swaying and discomfort of the car, can be because of to low tire-pressure for the loads.

Greatings from Holland
Peter