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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Hello all, I recently ordered new ball joints for my '97 Mountaineer AWD. I ordered 2 MOOG K8695 (lowers) 1 MOOG K8708T (drivers side) and 1 MOOG K80068 (1 piece passenger side). The PN on the boxes match what I ordered, but PN cast into the control arms do not match the box. The Drives side arm has 8971F-LEFT cast into it and the passenger side has 80167F-RIGHT cast into it... did I receive the wrong parts??
most likely you have the correct parts.
The part numbers on the sides of the boxes will not always match the manufacturer part # (re-packaged, inventory)
most likely you have the correct parts.
The part numbers on the sides of the boxes will not always match the manufacturer part # (re-packaged, inventory)
You're probably right. Each part of the control arm assembly has a part number. The number on the casting is probably the part number assigned to it, the part number on the box is what was assigned to the entire assembly.
Then again, you could always call Moog and ask them.
That was my first though... but then I remembered when I did my price comparison prior to ordering, none of the local parts store carry MOOG... "but we have TRW which is the same thing" :shifty_ey...
I heard from a reliable source that they are the same. Also, lots of parts companies buy from each other, and re-box under their name. Also, TRW may make the casting, and MOOG the actual joint.
TRW and MOOG are both manufactured under Federal Mougl... HOWEVER, TRW is the "budget" line.... My truck has 125K miles on it... I bought it at 100K. I am now replacing what I believed to be OEM ball joints... When I removed them I discovered that they have TRW cast into them. One can safely assume the OEM joints lasted less than <100K miles. And the OEM and TRWs lasted a COMBINED 125K... completely unacceptable IMO. The OEM should have lasted 125K<....
Now as for my issue, those of you who have MOOG uppers, please take a look and let me know what is cast into the arm. Also what did you guys use for a caster/camber kit when going from the 2 piece arm to the one piece? I was looking at the Spicer Part # 6161011 for its wide range of adjustment...
TRW and MOOG are both manufactured under Federal Mougl... HOWEVER, TRW is the "budget" line.... My truck has 125K miles on it... I bought it at 100K. I am now replacing what I believed to be OEM ball joints... When I removed them I discovered that they have TRW cast into them. One can safely assume the OEM joints lasted less than <100K miles. And the OEM and TRWs lasted a COMBINED 125K... completely unacceptable IMO. The OEM should have lasted 125K<....
Not impossible that the TRWs are OEM. I'm pretty sure that was the case with my tbird, stamped TRW on the upper and it was original, non greaseable. The upper arm looks similar in shape to the ex too. Funny how tbird ball joints start their failure around the 100K mark, could it be a TRW OEM product used on the ex? I'm sure others can confirm.
Hello all, I recently ordered new ball joints for my '97 Mountaineer AWD. I ordered 2 MOOG K8695 (lowers) 1 MOOG K8708T (drivers side) and 1 MOOG K80068 (1 piece passenger side). The PN on the boxes match what I ordered, but PN cast into the control arms do not match the box. The Drives side arm has 8971F-LEFT cast into it and the passenger side has 80167F-RIGHT cast into it... did I receive the wrong parts??
I don't believe they are required, but you will be better off if you do. It takes two sets, one for each side. The driver's side is a pain to put it mildly, at least it was on my 96 exp with v8. The alignment guy will love you for it though. I used Moog kits with Moog problem solver uppers.
Be sure to replace the bolt heads on the cam kits the same way. Its tempting to reverse them; don't do that. On my driver side there is three/four lines with two hold downs that must be at least loosened and heat shield that must be removed toward the driver(to get to those hold down clamp bolts).
One clamp under the heat shield, and one approx under the power steering pump. You can't see the bolts. After loosening you can wiggle the lines out of the way to get the cam bolts in.
10 mm sized heat shield and clamp bolts I think. Small flat cam bolt washers go to the inside of the bolt cams.
The drivers side is tight and an incredible pain in the ass for (rear!)cam bolts which have to be removed for upper ball joints anyway. Passenger side is 30 mins total including bolts. Drivers side depends on any difference in interferences and how big your hands are. Heat shield is sharp!
edit: I also did stabilizer bar bushings and links at this time, all followed immediately by new tires and alignment. Drives great, straight and true.
