More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

[cjmedina]

I'm going to have a problem with the tensioner with extension so I came up with this:

the tape starts at about 1/4" from the end so there is travel by the spring. I may be able to put a tie wrap around the socket and put it through the hole then thread it in to 20 in lb's

 

[2000StreetRod]

Piston will fully retract

In order to get the chain taught, the piston will be fully retracted into the tensioner housing and the spacer/socket will be wedged between the guide and the housing. That means there will be no tape left on the piston and the spacer/socket will drop into the head when you unscrew the tensioner. You will not be able to fit the socket with a cable tie thru the tensioner opening.

In your case, it will be much easier, and safer, if you could find a bolt with the same thread as the tensioner.

 

[cjmedina]

Ok, This is why I asked. I wasn't sure how much gets plunged back in.

I will have to do it the other way or find a bolt with the same thread and length.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Bolt length

Ok, This is why I asked. I wasn't sure how much gets plunged back in.

I will have to do it the other way or find a bolt with the same thread and length.

If you buy a bolt the length of the threaded portion will have to be about 2.25 inches for the rear cassette and 2.5 inches for the front cassette.

 

[cjmedina]

I bought a Husky 20-100 Ft/Lb 3/8" click type Torque Wrench from Homedepot. I got the 3/8 because it looked like I had more room with the shorter length. I still can't get it in line with the bolt but it is close and there is some wobble room in the way the socket fits the wrench. Also it looks like I could remove that piece of sound deadening to give me the room.

 

[BK_89iX]

That's a tough location. Some ideas:

- crows-foot (flare-nut type)
- flex-head torque wrench
- disconnect tranny mount and tilt engine forward a bit?
- a freshly calibrated arm and a box-end wrench? you're just confirming snugness, right?

BK

 

[cjmedina]

That's a tough location. Some ideas:

- crows-foot (flare-nut type)
- flex-head torque wrench
- disconnect tranny mount and tilt engine forward a bit?
- a freshly calibrated arm and a box-end wrench? you're just confirming snugness, right?

BK

Yeah, I thought about those options. I'll see if I can make it work.


Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Need a way to lock the Crank pulley

I could use a C-clamp around the breaker and sway bar. The problem is that there is play of a few inches so that I need to know which direction the crank may turn when I unbolt the right sprocket and then tighten it.

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Crankshaft turns in same direction

Since the camshaft is linked by the chains and jackshaft to the crankshaft it will try to turn the same way. It doesn't really matter if the crankshaft moves a little when you loosen the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. You can always move it back to the correct spot. You may be able to place one end of a cheater pipe on the breaker and the other end on the garage floor to keep it from turning for loosening.

 

[cjmedina]

Yeah, That is what I figured.

If I'm loosening the right sprocket.

The crank will be turning the same way...COUNTER CLOCK WISE.....

Knowing that, I will now know which swing of the breaker bar to clamp to the sway bar.



Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Looks like it was upgraded

Here's a photo by CDW6212R that shows what you should be looking for:
View attachment 58800
At the bottom of the photo the threads on the hydraulic tensioner (slack side) are visible. The piston in the tensioner is compressed and pressing against the guide. If the metal piece is there then you have the new style guide assembly.

At the top of the photo the guide positioning post is visible holding the traction side of the guide assembly. Notice below it and farther down is the other side of the traction side. The chain passes between.

Try to feel for these pieces of the guide assembly if you can't see them.

I have the metal piece!

So much for a better upgrade......!

 

[cjmedina]

You'll also need some way to make the chain taught when you torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. The spring pressure of the tensioner is insufficient for accurate timing and torquing.

The photo below shows what I used.
View attachment 58826
A 7/16 inch 3/8 inch drive short depth socket is tethered to a cable tie and small locking plier to keep a fumbly fingered person from losing the device into the depths of the head. The socket was selected because of its length (slightly longer than the tensioner piston extension) and diameter (about the same as the piston).

Since the front tensioner is longer and I still have the old one. I'm wondering if I could use the front tensioner temporally in the back to tighten the right Sprocket.

What do you think Dale?


Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

1/4 inch longer

The distance from the end of the housing to the end of the threaded portion of the front tensioner is only about 0.25 inches more than the rear tensioner. I doubt that's enough to make the chain taught. Have you tried to find a metric bolt that will fit?

 

[cjmedina]

I thought I may of been able to use a tap from my set but there in inches.

Do you know where I can get a Metric bolt that size?

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Didn't have a source

I thought I may of been able to use a tap from my set but there in inches.

Do you know where I can get a Metric bolt that size?

Cliff

No, that's why I used a spacer. I don't know the specific size and thread. Most bolts that long and large in diameter do not have fine threads and only have an inch or so of threads. I plan to find one for my engine rebuild in a year or so. I'll have to take my old tensioner to a fastener specialty shop to find out the thread and order one long enough for the front.

There is always the possibility of drilling and tapping the piston on the old tensioner for a smaller diameter bolt to screw into it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

M22x1.5 bolt

I thought I may of been able to use a tap from my set but there in inches.

Do you know where I can get a Metric bolt that size?

Cliff

I stopped by my favorite fastener specialty shop today and asked about the tensioner replacement bolt. The clerk measured the tread to be M22x1.5. He said he had bolts of the same thread but not with the thread length needed. So far I haven't been able to find a suitable bolt online.

 

[BobWiersema]

Tensioner

That tool is only 22 bucks, but you have to order it and wait.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-6484.html

If your replacing the tensioner, couldn't you pull the plunger out of the old one and jb-weld a small socket into it? You would need to get the length right but Dale should know.

Bob

 

[cjmedina]

I found this......Don't know the length...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTI...6197716QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

But then, for a few bucks more you can get the real thing.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Flywheel puller & tool

I saw the flywheel puller also but I believe that the threaded length is too short. I also found that large truck dual wheel studs are the same thread and long enough but don't have a hex head that you could use a socket with.

I half-heartedly tried to pull the piston out of the tensioner but it would only spin and not release. I think for next time I'll try to drill out the center of the piston in my old rear tensioner and then screw a smaller diameter stove bolt or long full thread cap bolt into the piston until it hits the rear of the housing.

Or maybe a better idea is to get the piston out entirely and then drill a hole in the hex head of the tensioner and then thread a smaller diameter stove bolt thru it. That way I won't have to fight the spring.

 

[cjmedina]

Dale,

With the present way you have done it. The piston will depress all the way to the socket with 20 in lb's of torque....Right?

So if it was a solid bolt it would still be torqued to that value?


Cliff