More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix | Page 14 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

Your lifting setup looks good to me.
I pretty sure the valve covers are tough enough to handle the pressure. I lifted out using rope in a similar way to you and had no problems with the covers.
When i installed i used old seatbelt again with no problem on either the covers or the intake as below
crane%20%26%20engine%20in.JPG

I did have the rad out to give a little more room for the engine to come forward and i placed a plank of wood in the engine bay to protect the aircon rad. Also i assume you're gonna take the bonnet, sorry hood off.
Just take your time lifting and keep checking clearance and make sure you have everything disconnected. Keep up the good work
Regards
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Don't worry about the boom chain

The boom chain has a rated working load that exceeds 2000 lbs. Don't worry about that link failing. My boom has supported the engine with the chain coming out of the front for 36 hours with no problems.

I would put some heavy rags or old towels between the valve covers and the cables to prevent abrasion.
 






I was thinking about putting a 1/4" piece of vinyl across each valve cover.

Does the sharp angle at the valve cover edge change the tensile strength of the cable?

CJ
 






Your lifting setup looks good to me.
I pretty sure the valve covers are tough enough to handle the pressure. I lifted out using rope in a similar way to you and had no problems with the covers.
When i installed i used old seatbelt again with no problem on either the covers or the intake as below
crane%20%26%20engine%20in.JPG

I did have the rad out to give a little more room for the engine to come forward and i placed a plank of wood in the engine bay to protect the aircon rad. Also i assume you're gonna take the bonnet, sorry hood off.
Just take your time lifting and keep checking clearance and make sure you have everything disconnected. Keep up the good work
Regards


Yeah I still had the bonnet on to take the picture. I still have the connectors in the back and I may have missed a bell housing bolt. I started to lift the engine up.It lifted off the mount on passenger side only so I may have missed a bolt. Are the starter bolts included in the 8 bolts?

Cheers
 






Hey
No there are 8 bolts not including the starter. Basically the same position 4 each side.IIRC 2 of the bolts are longer than the others so make a note of their position for install. Also beware the starter loom may be bolted to the engine mount plate. Going in thro the wheel arch i was able to disconnect the trans loom and O2 sensors before lifting the motor.
 






It's finally out...Hooray! Now what?

Yep...I had missed one bolt on the driver side. ALLDATA lists the size of the bell housing bolts. Only problem I had was the the 2 connectors on the back. One of them was hung up on the trans line. After that the engine came up and out with no problems. I was concerned about the oil pan clearing but I had plenty of clearance. I had to place the engine on blocks because I have to get an E12 socket to remove the flexplate bolts, and I will have to get mounting bolts for the engine stand.

Anybody know the T# for the head bolts?


DSCN8576.JPG



DSCN8577.JPG



DSCN8579.JPG



DSCN8580.JPG


DSCN8582.JPG


DSCN8583.JPG
 












Thanks Dale,

I was looking for the engine VIN code match. I want to know if this is the original engine. Any of those numbers match?

Cliff
 






VIN code location

Thanks Dale,

I was looking for the engine VIN code match. I want to know if this is the original engine. Any of those numbers match?

Cliff

If the last photo in your post is the rear of the block above the flexplate and left of the jackshaft plug then that is the last 8 digits of your VIN. I can't read the digits in the photo but since you have a 2001 the 1st digit should be a "1". The year of manufacture identifier changed in 2001 [1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)]
 






Is this position OK?

The bolts are in by a 1/2" and the shaft is aligned up with the crank. I had to position the supports so it didn't block the work I have to do.

I'm concerned about the top weight with the center at that point.

Any thoughts?

Cliff



DSCN8585.JPG
 






Thats about how i have mine mounted. It's fine if you have the locking pin to prevent the stand turning. The problem comes of you want to rotate the engine as the COG will be well above the support. If you are strong or have a helper then you can turn it 180 deg but i wouldn't try 90 deg.
As for the head torx bolt = T55 same as rear jack shaft bolt (fyi jack shaft bolt must be replaced if removed as is torque to yield)
I think the 2 small head bolts are E12 (i think the same as flexplate bolts).
While it's out you gonna clean and paint? I got good results from oven cleaner!
regards
 












Thats about how i have mine mounted. It's fine if you have the locking pin to prevent the stand turning. The problem comes of you want to rotate the engine as the COG will be well above the support. If you are strong or have a helper then you can turn it 180 deg but i wouldn't try 90 deg.
As for the head torx bolt = T55 same as rear jack shaft bolt (fyi jack shaft bolt must be replaced if removed as is torque to yield)
I think the 2 small head bolts are E12 (i think the same as flexplate bolts).
While it's out you gonna clean and paint? I got good results from oven cleaner!
regards

Yes I got the sockets I needed this morning. The 2 small bolts at the back are E12 and the other bigger bolts are T55. Man were those T55 bolts a ***** to loosen. I had to add a 2' pipe and it was all I could do to break loose!
 






petetheengineer warned me about the engine being top heavy and to be careful when rotating it. I used the crane, chain and a bolt on the side I wanted to lower or raise to keep it from getting away from me.

Good Idea Dale. I could just see the whole engine twisting out of my hand.
 






Yeah yesterday i had a 18" breaker on those bolts and had to put a 3 foot bar onto it to get them loose. Not sure if you read my threads bout my engine probs but i'm now doin the strip down of the head. I found valve contact on all three cylinders but only one bent valve and boy was it bent. Fortunately i have a complete spare head to steal the valve from.
Lets see some picks of the state of the head/valves/pistons.
 






Some what embarrassed

I started to remove the head this afternoon. When I lifted the lower intake manifold off, I was then able to see down all the intake ports and noticed something in the #3 cylinder that didn't look right. I got the flash light out to look and found a nut wedged between the edge of the intake valve and seat....SON OF A *****!

Here's the nut....Anybody know where it came from?

DSCN8591.JPG


I don't know how far the intake valve opens so that the nut never made it past the valve. I don't know if this just happened recently or from the beginning. I could speculate that there was a nut lying in the valley that I didn't see when lifting the lower intake and That’s when It could of happened.

I had removed and installed it 2 times when I thought I had a vacuum leak. I'm wondering now if this could have caused all my problems from the beginning???

I took some pictures of the cylinders. Notice that it looks like the exhaust valves on 1,2,3 hit the pistons!

BTW,.... I was able to turn the cam and the nut dropped out the bottom so I guess now this must of just happened since the nut never dropped in to the cylinder when I was testing for compression!!!

DSCN8587.JPG


DSCN8589.JPG


DSCN8590.JPG


DSCN8592.JPG


#1

DSCN8594.JPG


#2

DSCN8595.JPG


#3

DSCN8596.JPG




Cliff
 






Bonnet hinge bolt?? but that would have paint on it mmm.
The valves look to be seated, but that is some dink in the piston.
What did you use to clean the coking?
 






Liquid Wrench

I had the spark plugs out since I did the compression check and the ports had been open for a few weeks. Last week I had squirted some liquid wrench in the cylinders. I didn't know what I was going to find when I pulled the head. All I did was wipe the cylinders, and that's what you see. Not much crud I'd say.

Cliff
 






Looks like Clean break!

Any idea how it could of broke like that?

DSCN8514.JPG


DSCN8515.JPG


DSCN8518.JPG


DSCN8519.JPG


DSCN8600.JPG


DSCN8602.JPG


DSCN8603.JPG



Cliff
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If you are confident the sprockets and chain are good the you can get the new guides in without undoing the jackshaft sprocket. It will just be a small matter of locking the cam in the right position to retime. but i guess you might have that one down now.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top