More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

[bluestream1]

I don't see any harm in running a tap in to clean out the rust. I was worried about the same thing when I remove mine. Maybe try some penetrating oil and work the bolts slowly back and forth until you can screw it in enough to get a good hold.

I have a rebuild harmonic balancer for a Ford 4.0 in my basement, and it has two threaded holes, and two other larger holes without treads at 90 degrees form the threaded holes. Looks like you could use those larger holes to put a bolt through and then attach a nut from behind. This could be a back up plan if all else fails for you.

 

[cjmedina]

I don't see any harm in running a tap in to clean out the rust. I was worried about the same thing when I remove mine. Maybe try some penetrating oil and work the bolts slowly back and forth until you can screw it in enough to get a good hold.

I have a rebuild harmonic balancer for a Ford 4.0 in my basement, and it has two threaded holes, and two other larger holes without treads at 90 degrees form the threaded holes. Looks like you could use those larger holes to put a bolt through and then attach a nut from behind. This could be a back up plan if all else fails for you.

I cleaned the threads with a TAP. I was able to use the AC bolts BUT I get a lot of resistance trying to remove the balancer! The center bolt is screwed in by a few threads so there is play for the balancer to pull forward.

How much forced is need to get it to move?

 

[cjmedina]

I got the Balancer off

Using the AC bolts worked great. I got it all the way back as far as the bolt had threads but wasn't enough so I used a third AC bolt as the center point and it came off with a few more turns. Later I will post pictures of the front guides.

Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Found More Damage!

Good thing I'm doing a complete check of all chains!

 

[cjmedina]

More Photos of Front Guide damage.....

 

[2000StreetRod]

All the metal pieces

It looks like the three leaves of the primary tensioner are intact. I think there were only two leaves in the balance shaft tensioner but don't have it so I'm not sure. Be certain to retrieve all of the pieces, especially the metal ones.

The primary guide looks to be in pretty good shape. I suggest a thorough examination of the primary chain if you don't plan to replace it. There has probably been chain to tensioner metal-to-metal contact for some time which could result in signficant chain wear.

The cleanliness of your engine internals looks pretty good. I plan to perform an engine flush, oil and filter change every 1,000 miles for the next 2,000 miles and then switch back to synthetics.

 

[cjmedina]

It looks like the three leaves of the primary tensioner are intact. I think there were only two leaves in the balance shaft tensioner but don't have it so I'm not sure. Be certain to retrieve all of the pieces, especially the metal ones.

The primary guide looks to be in pretty good shape. I suggest a thorough examination of the primary chain if you don't plan to replace it. There has probably been chain to tensioner metal-to-metal contact for some time which could result in signficant chain wear.

The cleanliness of your engine internals looks pretty good. I plan to perform an engine flush, oil and filter change every 1,000 miles for the next 2,000 miles and then switch back to synthetics.

Dale these were the only pieces that I found. This damage must of just happened when I started the engine after doing 0012m.....

I first saw these 2 pieces, then the others fell out when I dropped the pan.

 

[cjmedina]

Rear Jackshaft Bolt Removal....

I'm following these instructions:

Remove the timing cover - leave the water pump cover alone - no need to open that up......OK

Remove jackshaft plug by flipping it over with a hammer, hold the jack shaft rear with a torx55, use powerful pneumatic tool to undo the front jackshaft bolt, if the back turns first then you need to get creative.......OK Removed

Remove the front jackshaft metal tensioner + cassette + chain + sprockets''''OK

Undo the rear cam guide holder bolts and remove the sprocket + chain + guide


How the hell do you remove the rear chain with the jackshaft sprocket still attached? And I have no way of loosening the jackshaft bolt since the shaft is now turning after removing the front sprocket and chain.

Oh wonderful for only $144 FORD has a tool for this!....... http://www.toolsource.com/rear-jack-shaft-socket-ford-p-99248.html?osCsid=jjc2hb80r2ef2nfptendb5kc77

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Tool not essential

If you have already loosened the front jackshaft bolt then you will have to wait until the front and left components are installed before you can start on the right. Once the front jackshaft bolt is torqued (using bolts and chain to hold the sprocket) then you can loosen the rear jackshaft bolt. The front jackshaft bolt is torqued tighter than the rear jackshaft bolt. You can install all of the front, left and right timing components while you wait on your heads. You'll need help to position the cassettes while lowering the heads to avoid damage.

 

[McSlug]

I removed the rear jack shaft bolt on my spare engine by locking the cam (using the otc tools this time). I undid this first then the cam gear.

 

[cjmedina]

Cleaning wand

Anybody ever use one of these?

I'm working on the engine out doors and have to keep the head and cylinder surfaces lubricated to hold back rusting. When I assemble the heads I will need to remove any oil from the head surface. Also, I would like to give the internals a washing before putting the pan and cover back on. I plan on using a gallon can of Mineral Spirits over all and then using the recommended head surface cleaning solution from ford and Acetone before installing the head gasket and heads.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370346235772

 

[BobWiersema]

Oh wonderful for only $144 FORD has a tool for this!....... http://www.toolsource.com/rear-jack-shaft-socket-ford-p-99248.html?osCsid=jjc2hb80r2ef2nfptendb5kc77

Cliff

Fifteen bucks on E-Bay a buy it now item.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rotu...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5ad9476b40

 

[cjmedina]

Exhaust Manifolt Bolts?

I had to cut the Manifold bolts because of severe corrosion. The only way I can get them out is to drill and possibly Tap the holes.

Anybody know what the original size of these bolts are?

Thanks,

Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Well I drilled out the bolts with a .41 drill and taped them with a M12x 1.5

 

[cjmedina]

Jackshaft Tool

I bought the Rear Jackshaft socket which is required to remove the bolt. I did so because the seller lowered it to $12. All I could say is that there was no way you could hold the shaft from turning with this tool. It is cast aluminum. it kept slipping out of the slots even as I tried hold it straight on and then using the engine stand mounting bracket for support......I eventually had to temporally mount the right head and sprocket. I was able to torque the sprocket bolt by holding the cam by using a long allen wrench that fit in the slot and then holding up one side with a socket under the allen wrench. It worked great! I was then able to loosen the jackshaft bolt

 

[2000StreetRod]

Very creative!

Nice going on getting that bolt loose!

 

[cjmedina]

Crankshaft torque

How much torque is required to turn the engine with out the heads installed....Short block only?

I measure about 12 ft lb's.


Is that normal?


CJ

 

[cjmedina]

You have to be kidding me!?!

A bolt and a nut?

http://www.etoolcart.com/damperreplacer303-102.aspx

 

[cjmedina]

Balance Shaft Timing...

I'm Replacing the broken guides. I'm not changing the Chain or gears because they are OK and the after market chains are crap as far as I'm concerned. Even though I didn't remove the chain It looks like the sprocket did jump timing or that is where it was put at the factory. I have the crank at TDC. It looks like the Balance shaft is in the correct position for TDC but I notice the small sprocket is off by a few teeth??????. Being that the shaft is correct do I have to loosen the bolt and move the sprocket and chain down to the alignment marks at the 9 o'clock position and locked with the 4mm pin? To Me it just looks like the sprocket marks are off yet the shaft is correct!

Any other tips?

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Rotate at different rates

The sprocket and the balance shaft rotate at different rates. Rotate the crank until the two marks on the sprocket straddle the alignment dot. Then check the alignment of the balance shaft. If not correct, rotate the crank again until the sprocket marks straddle and then check again. According to the manual it can take as many as 7 tries to get everything to line up.