More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

[cjmedina]

Ok I will give that a try...

Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

What Am I Missing Here?

I started to temporarily install the front tensioners and guides to check alignment. I have noticed the main sprocket to crank does not align vertically. The large sprocket is about 1/4" further back then the sprocket on the crank. Both are in as far as they can go. The jackshaft was never removed. What am I missing here?

 

[2000StreetRod]

left timing chain sprocket

I don't see the jackshaft sprocket for the left timing chain. It goes under the jackshaft sprocket for the primary timing chain.

 

[cjmedina]

embarrassing....


I had forgot the way I removed it and I don't have the heads installed and again the alldata does not show the order of install. I picked up a chilton guide and it is much better to follow.

 

[BobWiersema]

I don't see the jackshaft sprocket for the left timing chain. It goes under the jackshaft sprocket for the primary timing chain.

You may not need all of the parts, but you do need most of them.

Bob

 

[cjmedina]

Thanks,

I note that on the Jacksaft sprocket there is a mark with 2 zero's between a tooth. Is there any relevance to it or is it just a date code year 2000. I don't see it mentioned anywhere.

Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Double Check

The sprocket and the balance shaft rotate at different rates. Rotate the crank until the two marks on the sprocket straddle the alignment dot. Then check the alignment of the balance shaft. If not correct, rotate the crank again until the sprocket marks straddle and then check again. According to the manual it can take as many as 7 tries to get everything to line up.

It took about 7 turns to get the top and bottom marks to align. I used a drill that was close to .157 (4mm) in the hole then I installed the guide and tensioner. I assume it did not matter if the crank was at TDC when the marks aligned.

Cliff

 

[cjmedina]

Where does this part go?

Temporally putting parts together to make sure I won't have any problems plus checking alignment.

I temporally put the right head on to check the fit and alignment of the rear cassette. I then tried to remove it to see how hard it was to install with the head on. I can see where Dale had a problem. It was very hard to get the guides pivot point over the hole. the alignment has to be just right.

Here is a question:

This is not the rear cassette pivot bolt because I have that one and it's a little larger then this one. Anybody know where this one goes?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8684.JPG

 

[2000StreetRod]

Left front guide upper bolt

. . . Here is a question:

This is not the rear cassette pivot bolt because I have that one and it's a little larger then this one. Anybody know where this one goes?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8684.JPG

If it's not the rear then it is the left front guide assembly upper mounting bolt.

 

[cjmedina]

Yep that's where it goes. would of saw that if I was installing the left head.

 

[cjmedina]

Would there have been any reason to have removed this?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/oilpumpbolt.JPG

 

[2000StreetRod]

Oil pump drive

Would there have been any reason to have removed this?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/oilpumpbolt.JPG

There is a gear under the cover that engages a spiral gear on the rear of the jackshaft. The jackshaft rotates the gear which rotates the intermediate shaft between the gear and the oil pump. I didn't bother to remove the drive cover on my engine but I will inspect the drive gear when I rebuild the engine.

 

[cjmedina]

Tool Time

Happy Father's Day to all you fathers out there....

I spent this morning making a tool to hold the Cam's in place so that the sprocket can be tightened without the cam moving from TDC. With my tool I had no problem torquing the Cam to 63 ft lbs.

I used a 3/16" piece of aluminum and 2 box cutter blades which fit the timing slot. For support I used a block cut 1.4". I used a piece of hard wood but cheaper pine should be OK.

2 Box cutter Blades on top of 3/16" bar....

One other thing. The torque wrench I bought will not click in reverse! I found this out when testing it in a vise with an extension and a low torque setting. It only clicked in the clockwise direction. So before you torque a left hand bolt check to make sure your torque wrench will click in reverse. I used a MAC tools wrench which will work in both directions.

Now I have to come up with an Idea of how to make a simple tool to lock the Harmonic Balancer at T DC.

By the way, TDC is right on the timing mark so I know that lining up the mark the piston is all the way up.

Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Nice tool!

I like it Cliff! Much safer and easier to use than the plastic strips! I might copy your idea myself.

 

[cjmedina]

Engine Replacement option

Here we have a 2005 4x4 4.0L SOHC to replace my 2001. I think I can get this engine for$ 650

I will have to swap the upper/lower intake for sure.

What other parts will need to be swapped?

The parts that I don't need can be sold on Ebay to recoup the money for the engine!

I will then eventually fix the old one as a backup for my other Explorers


http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/1794227930.html

 

[2000StreetRod]

exhaust manifolds

You'll have to use your old exhaust manifolds since the 2005 has the EGR tube on the passenger side instead of the driver side.

The 2005 may not have the crankcase breather like your 2001.

Carefully inspect the 2005 balancer. The new style seems more prone to the outer section separating from the inner section.

 

[cjmedina]

Thanks Dale,

So i'm going to have to switch the intake manifold and the EGR.

Also the harness?

How about the valve cover on the driver side?

How do I modify if it does not have the crankcase breather?

How about the front mounting brackets?

 

[2000StreetRod]

long block

. . . So i'm going to have to switch the intake manifold and the EGR.

You just use your 2001 intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds with the EGR.

Also the harness?

How about the valve cover on the driver side?

How do I modify if it does not have the crankcase breather?

How about the front mounting brackets?

You'll probably end up using your 2001 valve covers for the coil pack mounting and ignition wiring attachments. Some of the 2005 accessory mounting brackets look identical in the photo to the 2001 but I don't really know. I believe the 2005 Mustang engine does not have the crankcase breather. I don't know about the Explorer. For the Mustang, you just pop out the plug and insert the breather according to other posts I've read.

 

[cjmedina]

Is it possible to install the engine as is by upgrading the computer.

What issues would doing that create?



Cliff

 

[2000StreetRod]

no throttle cable

Is it possible to install the engine as is by upgrading the computer.

What issues would doing that create?

Cliff

I believe the 2005 has electronic throttle control instead of a throttle cable. Therefore, the accelerator and cruise control would have to be changed. Also, the main intake tube is probably different because of the different throttle body location.