Motor craft vs precision

[bigred4x4]

My whine is strictly speed dependent the rpm have no effect,im hoping that because the CV doesn't fit properly that it's causing a bind on the axle shaft I just really hope banging on that outer seal trying to drive it in or the CV didn't knock something loose inside the diff. I'm in no mood for any more major projects for awhile. This was going to be the last of the projects it was supposed to be just driving and oil changes for awhile lol I just hope I didn't end up opening a can of worms, I've literally pretty much over the last three years have had EVERYTHING apart on the truck, engine rebuild, pulled tranny 3 times, replaced everything on the front end, some interior stuff,a bunch of mods and upgrades, and tons more maintenance stuff. if it is the axle,if I'm going through the trouble to drop it im not spending money rebuilding the stock gears I'll swap out both axles with good used axles that have 4.10 gears, but that is something I'm really not looking forward to. Although in the end the 4.10's would be nice..... Times like these I wish I had the money to drop it off at a shop and let them deal with it.

 

[bigred4x4]

O and I noticed last night that the splines on the outer side only had enough length to engage the hub only halfway.

 

[CDW6212R]

O and I noticed last night that the splines on the outer side only had enough length to engage the hub only halfway.

Interesting, I'll compare my stock axles to the precision before I install anything. I'm pulling apart my 99 and putting those axles/spindles/hubs into my Mercury(spare truck), and new everything for the 99(work truck). I hope I can find the same Ford tech to rebuild my front diff, to put in the Torsen. Lots to do before Winter comes.

 

[bigred4x4]

Well I stopped by an O'Reilly today and had them pull a CV off the shelf and it looked the same as the one I got! I'm going to put the oem back in this weekend hopefully my diff isn't screwed, I'll update with what I find out. Another thing I found out is the reason the axle nut looks the way it does is because it requires a washer to go behind it which you have to purchase separately I did not know this has the stock OEM nut has a built-in flange and would assume other replacement to be the same also I cannot find the axle retaining clip O'Reilly's say that you cannot buy that separately even though in the CV axle instructions it says to replace that I believe it even says it could void the warranty if you don't which is funny because it says it comes with all the necessary Hardware but it does not come with a new clip which according to their instructions is necessary what a small metal clip kill them to include it in the Box or even a washer for that matter to go behind the axle nut? One thing that I have learned over time is it's pretty hard to beat OEM Motorcraft replacement parts in the aftermarket it's going to cost me a lot more to buy genuine parts but at this point I think it's worth it if you're not having constant troubles and buying things over and over. I've never had any issues at all with any thing replaced with genuine parts. I'm sure the Precision axles were great when they had built them to actual spec but whatever they're putting out now at least for the passenger side is total garbage. I showed the people at O'Reilly the side to side comparison between the two axles and I showed them how the picture on their computer for the part looks nothing like what's in the box and they kind of just shook their head and walked off didn't have much to say. Except "I guess they went cheap" under their breath.

It's just sad to see once great companies that produce good parts to get cheaper and cheaper and importing more from China even the big-name brand aftermarket like moog for example. I read somewhere that they are doing it to reduce cost to compete with the cheap Chinese garbage parts that I guess most people buy. A guy at Advance Auto the other day said that the driveworks brand sucks and he would never buy it the only reason they carry it is so they have a cheaper option for people then a name brand Part.

 

[bigred4x4]

Changed out CV with a used motor craft in great shape thanks to @boominXplorer and haven't heard the whine since.

But.... I'm not sure at this point where it was coming from exactly I can't say for sure it was gear related the oem CV fits just like the precision I'm starting to suspect that it actually might of been something on the accessory chain, I'm suspecting ac compressor but I guess we'll have to see.


And this is what I found out about the precision axle

#1 the inboard joint is smaller because it's not the on type "tripod" joint it is a ball bearing joint

#2 the splines were alittle tighter on the oem than the precision measured with a micrometer but not much

#3 the female splined end was deeper on the precision.

#4 the precision had small amounts of "backlash" or play in the joints were as the OEM was SOLID.

#5 the precision outboard joint is smaller and therefore lesser in my opinion but both seem to articulate the same.


#6 the precision out board joint felt rough as if it was machined or wasnt greased properly

#7 the precision boots are inferior and tear easier ( I put a small tear in it fairly easily pulling it out of the axle)

In conclusion there isn't really anything wrong with precision joints you get what you pay for at $65 for a brand new CV with the lifetime warranty it's definitely not a bad choice but not as good as OE. but in my opinion I think your better off finding used motor craft originals in good shape and for a cheaper price.

 

[imp]

With more research it seems this style of CV is actually starting to be fairly common with new shafts I contacted O'Reilly's and I'll see what they have to say, the picture of the CV on the website looks OEM not like the picture I posted funny though when I had them look up the axle seal they listed two different front axles, I've read explorers in 2002 got a Dana 30 I hope these aren't "universal" Dana 30 strength axles that will fit more vehicles to reduce production cost. I'm just curious to how these actually stack up to the oem and why it looks the way it does. I'll report back if I find something.

And I thought they were all 35s. 30 is pretty puny, used way back when in Jeeps and Scouts. imp

 

[bigred4x4]

And I thought they were all 35s. 30 is pretty puny, used way back when in Jeeps and Scouts. imp

It was a "super Dana 30" so smaller ring gear but pretty much everything else was beefed up. Not sure why they did that though.

 

[bigred4x4]

This thread isn't really about ragging on precision if I were to conclude this thread I would conclude it with saying there are good parts out there, some better than others but with my experience you simply just can't go wrong with genuine motor craft replacement parts. they have been better to me so far then ANY other aftermarket brand it's just funny how long the original parts last then you replace it 200,000 miles later with aftermarket then before you know it, it's time to replace it again lol. there are good aftermarket companies out there (buy name brand!) but sometimes it's cheaper to buy once cry once then to save a little dough up front and regret it later when after 10,000 it's already done crapped out again. was it worth the $40 in savings ? Looking back, I think not! Im too broke to buy cheap lol ...(just an example)

Lesson of the day dont buy cheap because it'll cost you more in the end.

....Would I recommend precision axles to somebody ....yes, there really not bad(they are brand new axles) for the price and warranty and also compared to other options but me personally i am just going to stick with used motor craft stuff as my personal preference. But with brand new motorcraft CV being $$$$$!! I think if you wheel it or dd it and want to save money then a junkyard can be your best friend(also sometimes online except eBay it's 50/50 with getting ok stuff on eBay)because I'm tired of being screwed over by the auto parts stores almost everything I've bought and over paid for has been a disappointment sonner than later. and that includes just about all of them, I've had less issues with junk yard buys and with costing me almost nothing then the things I've bought new at the local auto store not to mention the stupid people that tend to work at them are irritating when you can tell they obviously have no business selling car parts or the ones who do know a thing or two assume you know nothing.psh... Please lol !

The end.

 

[boominXplorer]

Quality used oem parts are better than new aftermarket parts. It doesn't apply on everything but at least 75% of the time it does.

 

[bigred4x4]

^^ I agree 75% sounds about right.

 

[imp]

Quality used oem parts are better than new aftermarket parts. It doesn't apply on everything but at least 75% of the time it does.

It's because, IMO that all the replacement market parts originate now in China. imp

 

[bigred4x4]

I know it's sad even good name brand like moog is made in Korea lol even some more recent Ford stuff ( not our second gens) is made/assembled in China .

 

[boominXplorer]

Aftermarket parts have definitely had a quality downfall these last few years trying to be price competitive.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'll put this question out again, this being about quality and the CV axles. Is there any other possibility for these CV axles, besides the Motorcraft and the other common brands?

I do fine with the normal stuff, but I'd like to have a better choice, even much better, if the cost was comparable to the quality. I know that aftermarket newer Mustang axles can cost $1k, but that's a lot higher stress need. I'd be happy to find something with half that strength and cost, give or take.

I'll check with my Ford parts guy, I've never asked him about axles. But he did surprise me two weeks ago when I asked about the steering rack. The Cardone units are $230ish, and I can get the OEM rack for a little over $150. I'm going to need a couple of those I believe. We'll see how bad the axles are.

 

[bigred4x4]

The only other CVs in know of is the RCV and there stupid expensive it seems the consensus is using whatever and bringing spares for going off road, everyday use though I don't see any problems with using stock grade CV axles but I'm with you if there was an option for high flex and high strength CV axles for not too much I'd be all over it. I mean if you can manufacture and sell brand new CVs for $65, then a small design change and better grade metals shouldn't make the cost go over $1000 that's just insane.

 

[bigred4x4]

Ok RCV is crazy don't see anything for our explorers and they want (just an example of similar CV joint ) 4 runner CVs are $2500 for a set.I hope it comes with lube after bending you over that hard lol . you can do an SAS with lift and maybe a locker for that cost.

 

[CDW6212R]

For that money it'd be like the V8 headers. I can find a way to make my own for less, much less.

I don't know anyone in the industry, but a good connection would be the place to start looking. Using components that already exist would be the place to begin, but only people in the industry could research through that. Not now for me, but maybe next Summer I might hunt. I hope to be hunting hard next Spring for an IRS for my Lincoln, from the 03/04 Cobra stuff. People who know those well might be able to find the right connection for CV axle sources or parts.