Mountaineer removing front differential case?

[Summajet]

2000 mountaineer AWD 5.0L 236,500
I have a vibration in the front end. With both front tires on jack stands grabbing the tires at the 3 and 9 o clock positions, it has a good deal of slop when grabbing them. In the 6 and 12 o clock position it is not as bad. I have replaced the wheel hub bearings assemblies back in 2016 with Timken. Autozone does not carry them anymore. I asked why and they said that auto repair shops were having to replace a many of them in the shops warranty replacement time.

I am in process of replacing the front wheel hub assemblies, cv axles, and cv axle seals. I replaced the intermediate front differential shaft with a new dormam.

While I am that far In I want to remove and inspect the front differential.
I see there are three bolts that hold the front differential in place. Second bolt passengers side, one bolt mounts to frame passengers side. Third bolt is drivers side. Is there a trick in getting the third bolt out and what size is the wrench or socket? I did notice on the front differential when grabbing the yolk that the intermediate shaft mounts into, that you can turn about an 1" one way and opposite. Is that normal to have that kind of looseness? If front differential is bad, my options are rebuilt one for $1,100 shipped or a junk yard. Has anyone used one from a junk yard? If from a junk yard, aside from removing the diff. cover and looking at gears and oil for metal shavings is there anything else to look for. The Viscious coupling is on the front of the Transfer case, correct?

I appreciate the help,

 

[gmanpaint]

3 & 9 is normally a bad wheel bearing hub unit. Both of them have slop?

6 & 12 is normally ball joints, but a better test than shaking the tire, is to raise the tire 1" and gently pry under with a lever. No movement should be present in the ball joints while lifting the tire. If ANY movement is present, best to change them all, not just one.

I have had decent luck with the Precision Brand CV's. Some auto stores and Amazon sells them.

Your front differential carrier, comes stock in open form. Even in locked form, there will be some side to side play in the front driveline. I wouldn't be alarmed by that. Now if the U-Joint yolk moves IN/OUT, that would be good reason for concern. I am doubtful it needs a rebuild over this movement in the driveline.

If you insist on the rebuild, & are a patient person, you could get that front rebuild cheaper. New gears, master install kit aprox- $300. Used carrier if needed (highly doubtful)- $50. Labor for a complete professional rebuild, and gear set up should be around $500 or less. If you know someone that can re-gear, a steak dinner bribe goes a long way. lol

Calipers used on that bolt head will tell you the size. I have found, that there are different size bolts used for the same thing on these rigs. Changes from year to year, and model to model.

From What I know of, that coupler is internal to the 4404 T-case.

Ok, there is one other thing that causes a vibration, and sometimes is overlooked. Your Drivelines. A bad U-joint can & will cause vibrations. Doesn't even have to be a front shaft to feel like a front issue. A Rear joint could be bad, and you could even feel it in the steering wheel sometimes. Your front shaft at the t-case might be bad. Can't remember off the top of my head which version of shaft the AWD 4404 uses. Some have CV's, and some have U-joints. It's definitely something to check out.

Best of luck!

 

[CDW6212R]

The three diff, mounting bolts use the same size socket, that left one is just vertical. There is a vent hose which you must disconnect first before removing the bolts for the diff. Find the clip which mounts that hose to the left UCA frame tabs. Take that off of the frame and push the hose down so it won't hang up as the differential drops.

I use an old battery under the diff, to lower it onto before removing it fully. Any strong object is good for that, move the differential out and back in in two steps. Trying to do it in one long motion out or in will be more dangerous for you and the parts. An old battery is just a common thing I have always.

There is a lot of play in the front diff(pinion movement), but an inch sounds like too much. I've guessed mine is about 5/8" or so.

The front hubs can be had on Amazon or eBay, and Rock Auto, for less than local stores. The best is/was about $145 and there are many choices still, that parts store is BS'ing you.

The gear oil can only be removed by taking the front pan off, which is a tough job. Take your time with the cover, it's strong and only the diff, can be hurt prying it off. It will take a while to remove it and clean up the surfaces and diff.

Note for wear, the AWD transfer case is very good, but if the viscous coupling seizes up fully, it will wear out the front diff, if the tires are not identical in diameter. The tires are absolutely critical for these AWD Explorers. Do not drive one if the tires are not the same, the damage caused is not worth the trouble to "get you back home" etc. Have it towed, then it won't damage the viscous clutch, or the front diff. Tires are the cause of virtually every one of those problems.

Try this link to an SKF BR930252 front hub. They cost $138 plus S&H from Rock Auto, they are a little stronger than most other brands;

More Information for SKF BR930252

 

[Summajet]

Yes it has slop on both tires at 3 and 9 on the wheel bearings. I am going to replace the ball joints while I'm in there. I used the moog lower controls before and the rubber boot on both lower ball joints have tears. I want a grease fitting. Any suggestions for a brand?
Thanks

 

[gmanpaint]

Whatever you do, stay away from the cheap Service grade parts. Kits that offer a complete list of arms, BJ's, TRE's, swaybar links, etc... Tend to be these cheaper service grade parts.

The professional grade BJ's that are offered up by Moog, AC Delco, Raybesto's, and other are all decent units. More than likely, they are all made by the same company, and rebranded for resale. Costs are higher, but so is the quality.

Other brands out there that offer HD use, are XRF, MevoTech, & McQuay.

Really just depends, on your type of use for the vehicle.

 

[Summajet]

Whatever you do, stay away from the cheap Service grade parts. Kits that offer a complete list of arms, BJ's, TRE's, swaybar links, etc... Tend to be these cheaper service grade parts.

The professional grade BJ's that are offered up by Moog, AC Delco, Raybesto's, and other are all decent units. More than likely, they are all made by the same company, and rebranded for resale. Costs are higher, but so is the quality.

Other brands out there that offer HD use, are XRF, MevoTech, & McQuay.

Really just depends, on your type of use for the vehicle.

I am aware that the cheaper parts are junk and appreciate the help.

 

[Summajet]

The three diff, mounting bolts use the same size socket, that left one is just vertical. There is a vent hose which you must disconnect first before removing the bolts for the diff. Find the clip which mounts that hose to the left UCA frame tabs. Take that off of the frame and push the hose down so it won't hang up as the differential drops.

I use an old battery under the diff, to lower it onto before removing it fully. Any strong object is good for that, move the differential out and back in in two steps. Trying to do it in one long motion out or in will be more dangerous for you and the parts. An old battery is just a common thing I have always.

There is a lot of play in the front diff(pinion movement), but an inch sounds like too much. I've guessed mine is about 5/8" or so.

The front hubs can be had on Amazon or eBay, and Rock Auto, for less than local stores. The best is/was about $145 and there are many choices still, that parts store is BS'ing you.

The gear oil can only be removed by taking the front pan off, which is a tough job. Take your time with the cover, it's strong and only the diff, can be hurt prying it off. It will take a while to remove it and clean up the surfaces and diff.

Note for wear, the AWD transfer case is very good, but if the viscous coupling seizes up fully, it will wear out the front diff, if the tires are not identical in diameter. The tires are absolutely critical for these AWD Explorers. Do not drive one if the tires are not the same, the damage caused is not worth the trouble to "get you back home" etc. Have it towed, then it won't damage the viscous clutch, or the front diff. Tires are the cause of virtually every one of those problems.

Try this link to an SKF BR930252 front hub. They cost $138 plus S&H from Rock Auto, they are a little stronger than most other brands;

More Information for SKF BR930252

I just ordered two dorman axle hubs 951-010 and two Moog K8695T Lower ball joints.

 

[Summajet]

one other thing how can you make sure the viscious coupling is not bad in the awd transfer case?

 

[CDW6212R]

The AWD fluid should be changed about every year, and it shouldn't be dark at all.

The viscous clutch is a sealed unit inside the TC, typically when it fails it will be from excess heat(tires that don't match), and then the seals will leak. That fluid from a bad VC will be dark, and the TC fluid will be very dark from then on. I have a 98 like that, changing the fluid every few months didn't fix it, eventually it locked up and destroyed the front diff. Now it's been 2WD with the front shaft out for about 25k miles.

Tires are the key.

Drain the AWD TC and hope the fluid is somewhat clear. If it isn't, change it and then do it again in a couple of months.

Dorman is a poor choice for many important parts, like the hubs. They also make a front driveshaft CV rebuild kit, that is the best choice available, the other choice is a bad brand called Detroit Axle. Buy Dorman parts only when there is no other choice, they are better than nothing.

 

[Summajet]

The AWD fluid should be changed about every year, and it shouldn't be dark at all.

The viscous clutch is a sealed unit inside the TC, typically when it fails it will be from excess heat(tires that don't match), and then the seals will leak. That fluid from a bad VC will be dark, and the TC fluid will be very dark from then on. I have a 98 like that, changing the fluid every few months didn't fix it, eventually it locked up and destroyed the front diff. Now it's been 2WD with the front shaft out for about 25k miles.

Tires are the key.

Drain the AWD TC and hope the fluid is somewhat clear. If it isn't, change it and then do it again in a couple of months.

Dorman is a poor choice for many important parts, like the hubs. They also make a front driveshaft CV rebuild kit, that is the best choice available, the other choice is a bad brand called Detroit Axle. Buy Dorman parts only when there is no other choice, they are better than nothing.

I have timken now and I can see movement at 3 and 9 position.
If I did replace transfer case, I have seen some replace the chains. I have not seen the viscious couplings replaced. Local shop said if viscious coupling guess bad it is $750 for the part alone.bit looks like it is slinging grease around the seal on the front of the transfer case. I'll try to post picture tonight.

 

[CDW6212R]

If your axles aren't that old, you could do just the BJ's and see if that's the main looseness. Axles of high quality should last for many years, I had two OEM axles last about seven and were still good, when I rebuilt the whole front suspension of my Mercury.

The VC can be bought for about $350 or so, I got one last year to learn how to rebuild the AWD. The TC seals should be replaceable without much trouble, and the internals are very reliable if they have some quality fluid all the time. I'd call the VC fluid bad for the TC if it does leak out much.

My 98 had been driven with no front shaft for many years before I got it, the damage from some fool not buying four new tires did it in way before me. I replaced the front diff(which was almost empty) with a good spare I had, plus four new CA's, two used axles etc. It took about two years for the viscous clutch to fully lock up with everything back in place as AWD. I noticed a binding while turning tight, and assumed it was a bad axle. I replaced one axle that had a slight boot leak(very slight at outer edge), and a month later I got tired of it and lifted it up. The front diff, pinion flange, would move in all directions a lot. It had eaten the whole diff, all gears were ruined. So that VC is a big deal if it really goes bad.

 

[Summajet]

If your axles aren't that old, you could do just the BJ's and see if that's the main looseness. Axles of high quality should last for many years, I had two OEM axles last about seven and were still good, when I rebuilt the whole front suspension of my Mercury.

The VC can be bought for about $350 or so, I got one last year to learn how to rebuild the AWD. The TC seals should be replaceable without much trouble, and the internals are very reliable if they have some quality fluid all the time. I'd call the VC fluid bad for the TC if it does leak out much.

My 98 had been driven with no front shaft for many years before I got it, the damage from some fool not buying four new tires did it in way before me. I replaced the front diff(which was almost empty) with a good spare I had, plus four new CA's, two used axles etc. It took about two years for the viscous clutch to fully lock up with everything back in place as AWD. I noticed a binding while turning tight, and assumed it was a bad axle. I replaced one axle that had a slight boot leak(very slight at outer edge), and a month later I got tired of it and lifted it up. The front diff, pinion flange, would move in all directions a lot. It had eaten the whole diff, all gears were ruined. So that VC is a big deal if it really goes bad.

The axles are the original oem set. I have never replaced them. Guessing 20 years and towing a trailer and normally wear it is time.

 

[Summajet]

I had seen on this forum that a person was rebuilding the front differential on their 00 ranger 4wd. I cannot find it. I found it when searching google but lost the address. Anyone know of a post on here on rebuilding the front differential on a 00 explorer or ranger?
Thanks