Tips & Advice for removing front differential?

[imq707s]

I've got a 97' Mountaineer (same as an X) with AWD. I'm going to be pulling the front diff out tomorrow night because it sounds like some of the carrier bearing could be going bad.

As far as I can tell...here are the steps I need to go through in order to remove it....please tell me if there is anything I'm leaving out.

1. Remove the tires, brake calipers, caliper mounts, and rotors.
2. Remove the front driveshaft from the pinion yoke.
2. Remove the wheel bearing hubs
3. Pull the CV shafts out of the differential (they just pull out right??)
4. Remove the 4 mounting bolts that hold the diff in, and pull the entire thing out.

Is it that easy??...or are there some things that I'm forgeting?

How much time am I looking at to remove the front diff?

Thanks for the help.

 

[exploded99]

These are the instructions for a 99 V8. Yours is the same. A little different approach than you are thinking about. This procedure leaves the halfshafts in the vehicle, and gives you a couple of cautions to pay attention to.

Removal

1.Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2.Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads, to prevent them from falling out of the caliper guides.
CAUTION: Do not allow the calipers to hang by the hoses.
NOTE: Install a wheel nut to secure each brake disc in place.

3.Remove the bolts and position both calipers aside.
4.Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both outer tie-rods.
NOTE: Do not damage the tie-rod dust boots when installing the special tool. Apply a small amount of grease to the tie-rod stud.

Using the special tool, separate the tie-rod ends from the knuckles.
5.Unclip the left and right wheel anti-lock sensor wiring harnesses from the locators on the vehicle chassis, located above the stabilizer bar brackets.
WARNING: Do not allow the wheel knuckle to hang freely. it is possible to overextend and internally separate the inner CV joint. separate both axle halfshafts from the front axle. CAUTION: Take necessary precautions to protect the machined sealing surfaces on each axle.

6.Remove both pinch bolts and disconnect the upper ball joints.
7.Pull the RH axle halfshaft, with the wheel knuckle, away from the axle until the axle halfshaft is out of the axle.
Pull the LH axle halfshaft, with the wheel knuckle, away from the axle. The LH axle cannot be removed from the axle at this time.
8.Raise the vehicle.
9.Remove the lower engine splash shield, if equipped.

10.Remove and discard the U joint bolts and straps. Secure the driveshaft out of the way.

NOTE: Use the Axle Service Plugs Set T95T4850-A to plug the axle openings.
WARNING: Tape the U-joint bearing caps to prevent them from falling off the U-joint. WARNING: Index-mark the front axle pinion flange to the front driveshaft .

11.Secure the axle housing to a suitable lift.
12.Remove and discard the bolts securing the axle housing to the frame. Lower the axle 25 mm (1 inch) and move to the right 19 mm (0.75 inch) , guiding the LH axle halfshaft out of the axle.

13.Disconnect the vent hose from the front axle housing.
14.Lower the axle from the vehicle

 

[imq707s]

Thanks for the info.

I didn't think that I had to mess with the upper and lower ball joints. I'll have to go and rent one of that ball joint Forks. Thanks again for all the info.

 

[timmac06]

I've never done the job, but someone on the board has a good write-up w/pics.
they pulled the right side apart and left side in tact. the diff come out of the right side. so why split the ball joint on the left side?

 

[dman726749]

it was jefe who did the writeup.....its around somewhere, worth the search

 

[Jefe]

it was jefe who did the writeup.....its around somewhere, worth the search

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53863

 

[Bronco638]

These are the instructions I followed. ^^^^

Thanks to Jeff, piece of cake!

 

[CDW6212R]

Interesting, I also thought that the axles both had to be removed. I rebuilt my whole front suspension, including axles, hubs, and diff. seals. The three seals were $50 from Ford.

There is no special tool needed to separate the upper ball joint from the spindle. Just remove the pinch bolts(with the spindle supported), and hammer the side of the upper spindle. The ball joint will come out, but do spray it first with PB Blaster to loosen it up. Good luck,

 

[imq707s]

Thanks for all the help guys....I followed all of your instructions and it was a piece of cake. It took me right at 2 hours to get the diff out. I just seperated the upper ball joint from the wheel hub,and then pulled the CV shaft right out. The three main axle bolts were not to hard to remove....but it's going to be tricky getting my big hands up in there to put them back in.

I found that both of the main carrier bearing are really rough...and need to be replaced. They look like they got pretty hot at one point. The ring and pinnion gears look great....I think I'm just going to replace all of the bearings and seals.

The pinion bearing seems to turn very smooth....should I replace it also, or should it be ok???

Thanks again.

 

[imq707s]

Well I got the diff all rebuilt, and installed.

Well now I'm pi$$ed!

The grinding "bad bearing" noise is still there after install the fresh differential. What in the world could be making that noise?

So far, this is what I've replaced (and wasted lots of money on).

1. New wheels bearing hubs $450
2. New front driveshaft $200
3. New front rotors and pads $300
4. All new bearings in the fron diff $300

The only thing that I haven't replaced are the front half shafts with the CV joints on them.

Maybe you guys could help me out.

At speeds between 15-40mph I can hear a very low pitched grinding noise that has sort of a droneing sound to it. It gets a little louder when I turn to the right...and a little quieter when I turn to the left. At highway speeds you can't hear a thing. I can feel the vibration coming through the floor under my feet....so I'm 99% sure it's on the drivers side.

I jacke all 4 wheels up and had someone hop in the drivers seat and run the speedo up to around 40mph. You could hear the noise, but not as loud as when I'm actually driving down the road. The noise is coming from the front, not the middle (near the trasfer case).

What could be making this noise? The only thing I haven't replaced are the half shafts....but I would think that if the CV joints were bad....they would make that "click-click-click" noise when turning...and they don't.

Any ideas would be great...this is driving me crazy

 

[Jefe]

At speeds between 15-40mph I can hear a very low pitched grinding noise that has sort of a droneing sound to it. It gets a little louder when I turn to the right...and a little quieter when I turn to the left. . .
What could be making this noise? The only thing I haven't replaced are the half shafts....but I would think that if the CV joints were bad....they would make that "click-click-click" noise when turning...and they don't.

Sure sounds like a CV to me. I never had a CV make a distinct clicking (or any other) sound when one went bad. . just a grinding type vibration.

Didn't you CHECK the CV's while you had the whole front end apart?? (ie rotate them in your hand feeling for resistance or play)

 

[imq707s]

I only had to remove the passenger side CV shaft to get the diff out. I rotated it by hand and it felt smooth. It slid in and out without any binding.

I did not pull out the drivers side (where the noise is coming from) CV shaft.....so maybe that's my problem. It shouldn't be to hard to pull it out. I guess I'll have to try that next.

Thanks for the info Jeff.