Muffler Inputs Are Different?

[RandomNerd2000]

So I'm doing the V8 swap on my Eddie Bauer as most are aware, and I've hit a snag that I wasn't supposed to hit. My V8 donor is fully original, stock cats, muffler is a dual input etc, nothing abnormal, looks just like my 2000 V8. My Eddie Bauer was a SOHC V6, yet the muffler is a SINGLE in, and that muffler is OEM too, says FORD right on the heat shield, so I've got a question, how's that happen? Truck isn't rusty at all, it's never even seen salt best I can tell, and better yet, can you transfer the entire tailpipe assembly, from the muffler to the tip, from my donor to the Eddie Bauer without cutting it?

 

[Jason94sport]

Since I just put on a Gibson my research said that SOHC 01+ Explorers starting coming with a single in/out mufflers. Sometime in late 2000 they switched.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Well I suppose that answers that, now comes the age old question, can the tail pipe be transferred? I want the truck as stock as possible, no loud exhaust, no duals or any of that, just nice quiet V8 Eddie Bauer.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

5.0L's have a 2.25" tailpipe while 4.0L's have a 2". You'll need the whole v8 system. A single 2" tailpipe is most certainly too small for a v8.

If you plan on heading to Florida for spring break:
NEW 1997-00 -EXPLORER MOUNTAINEER EXHAUST SYSTEM
It doesn't say if it's for a v8 or not. To my shame, I can't tell by looking at it.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I have the full exhaust from manifold to tip from my 99 donor, the main question I have is how hard is that to get manhandled in there? Can it be done without cutting it?

 

[CDW6212R]

My 99 SOHC came with a back half that looked exactly like my 98 models. I had a 2.5" muffler put on in 2007 with a single 2.5" tail pipe, and a $65 resonator. The old piping was 2.25", same as the V8's.

I think you can use the V8 parts you have, but the back section won't go on without dropping the rear assembly, or cutting it and re-welding it. If you think what you have is worthy to reuse, I'd cut out and replace the resonator. That lets you take the pieces to a muffler shop, and it's an easy job for them.

Every single joint in the exhaust is a welded joint, and it's smaller there than 2.25", the weld inside I'd guess brings it down closer to 2 1/8", very small. Look at the exhaust end to end, count those weld joints. There are about eight of them, not counting the collector connection, and the cat pipe back end flanges. The flanges you live with, but I'd try to open up those welded joints if possible. A muffler shop will make welds that aren't as permanent or thick as stock, but also won't protrude inside much at all.

I'd price a shop to weld up a 2.5" exhaust if it isn't too expensive there, the back half at least. That's the single exhaust section, the lowest flow, if you discount the obvious exhaust manifolds.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

If it's all factory exhaust then is should be all bolts.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

If it's all factory exhaust then is should be all bolts.

The cats bolt up to the manifolds, two cats per side, then they meet at the muffler, on my 99, one side slides together, the other side bolts together, and past that it's a one piece unit. On my 01 it's bolted together at the muffler coming off the cats but using ONE connection instead of two.

My 99 SOHC came with a back half that looked exactly like my 98 models. I had a 2.5" muffler put on in 2007 with a single 2.5" tail pipe, and a $65 resonator. The old piping was 2.25", same as the V8's.

I think you can use the V8 parts you have, but the back section won't go on without dropping the rear assembly, or cutting it and re-welding it. If you think what you have is worthy to reuse, I'd cut out and replace the resonator. That lets you take the pieces to a muffler shop, and it's an easy job for them.

Every single joint in the exhaust is a welded joint, and it's smaller there than 2.25", the weld inside I'd guess brings it down closer to 2 1/8", very small. Look at the exhaust end to end, count those weld joints. There are about eight of them, not counting the collector connection, and the cat pipe back end flanges. The flanges you live with, but I'd try to open up those welded joints if possible. A muffler shop will make welds that aren't as permanent or thick as stock, but also won't protrude inside much at all.

I'd price a shop to weld up a 2.5" exhaust if it isn't too expensive there, the back half at least. That's the single exhaust section, the lowest flow, if you discount the obvious exhaust manifolds.

So basically, after the muffler, split it in two, and install the two pieces, then have it welded back together? That keeps it stock past the muffler, and I just get the tail pipe reattached? It's worth reusing, neither truck has rust past surface rust, both are near spotless and all the bolts came loose, some with the ratchet.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the stock pipes are a thicker steel than most pipe shops use. The stock resonator isn't big at all, a rather slim small thing. I'd not use one or replace it with something better. What I found long ago came from eBay I think, but it took a while to locate one that was a size which could fit. There's room for something a little larger in diameter for the resonator, and about the same length will work. My choice is a little shorter than original, but larger around, say 2.5" I'd guess.

If you cut it behind the muffler near the resonator, then you can install one of several kinds of joints that can unbolt.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

@CDW6212R

If what you say is true about the ID of the flange welds, do you think they are as big a hindrance to the exhaust flow as the 4 catalytic converters? High flow cats uncork a couple hp at best on stock vehicles.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

@RandomNerd2000

I agree with CDW. Best to cut wherever there is the most room so the welder can get to it.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Yes, the stock pipes are a thicker steel than most pipe shops use. The stock resonator isn't big at all, a rather slim small thing. I'd not use one or replace it with something better. What I found long ago came from eBay I think, but it took a while to locate one that was a size which could fit. There's room for something a little larger in diameter for the resonator, and about the same length will work. My choice is a little shorter than original, but larger around, say 2.5" I'd guess.

If you cut it behind the muffler near the resonator, then you can install one of several kinds of joints that can unbolt.

Yeah the stock pipe is a lot better than what comes out shops in quality terms, and doesn't rust nearly as quick, though rust here isn't an issue. I was thinking looking under there it could be split behind the muffler, in-between there and the resonator in a decent looking place, then an exhaust clamp used to join it back together underneath the truck, or it welded back together, then it should come out and go back in a lot easier, and be pretty cheap/easy to transfer.

 

[CDW6212R]

@CDW6212R

If what you say is true about the ID of the flange welds, do you think they are as big a hindrance to the exhaust flow as the 4 catalytic converters? High flow cats uncork a couple hp at best on stock vehicles.

The extra pair of cats definitely restrict more than the weld points. For stock vehicles what they make is high quality with minor flow restrictions from their build process. The big restrictions are as I keep hinting at, a single exhaust flows half as much as a dual system, the horrible manifolds, the two extra cats, and the collector joint(measure the outlet size sometime). For a stock 302, the 2.25" pipe would be fine if those things were corrected(that means two mufflers and tail pipes). As it is, it's bad for a 200CI engine, let alone anything built that makes 250hp or more.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah the stock pipe is a lot better than what comes out shops in quality terms, and doesn't rust nearly as quick, though rust here isn't an issue. I was thinking looking under there it could be split behind the muffler, in-between there and the resonator in a decent looking place, then an exhaust clamp used to join it back together underneath the truck, or it welded back together, then it should come out and go back in a lot easier, and be pretty cheap/easy to transfer.

You've got if planned to work, it's easy once you put a connection in it where you can work on it. I've enjoyed not having to work on my stock exhausts, you want to work on it when you're ready, not because it's falling apart.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

@RandomNerd2000

I was charged $20 to have a tailpipe welded on at Muffler Man for a f150. Should be cheap and easy like you said.

@CDW6212R

That reminded me, how is your exhaust coming along?

I'm going to begin with my exhaust when I get that far, maybe February now. I'll find the truth to what a big exhaust will do for a bone stock 302 Explorer.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm slow, no lie there.

I'm spending most of my time with my work, and estate issues of my father since becoming the administrator. I haven't found the time to fix my mail truck(the 99), or get my dad's car prepped to sell(error code pointing to a sensor on the gas tank(unavailable separately($1800 tank replacement))). I hope to get things cleared out in the next six weeks if I'm lucky. We just finished a mail count on Friday, I should gain three hours(about $300 a month).

Money isn't the problem, time and daylight after work is. Spring is coming, yardwork begins, and my neighbor I help by cutting the grass(she's 84 now and her family still relies on her somewhat financially(she has a decent amount of property they expect to inherit). She still is able to and prefers to live alone. That's my little world here, I don't do Facebook, so that's the most I've explained to anyone but my best friend's. Regards,

 

[toypaseo]

Yeah the stock pipe is a lot better than what comes out shops in quality terms, and doesn't rust nearly as quick, though rust here isn't an issue. I was thinking looking under there it could be split behind the muffler, in-between there and the resonator in a decent looking place, then an exhaust clamp used to join it back together underneath the truck, or it welded back together, then it should come out and go back in a lot easier, and be pretty cheap/easy to transfer.

Maybe look at band clamps, or stepped band clamps.

I used 2½" Torca TorcTite EasySeal stainless steel band clamps for installation of my Gibson catback.