My 4r70w slips. Help.

[MalcolmV8]

Well I test drove the THIRD 4r70w tonight. I don't want to speak prematurely and jinx myself but it seems to work I didn't flog it or anything, just drove around nicely a few miles on the back roads and then ran about 10 miles on the interstate.
I need to get a wheel alignment and a new exhaust built, but by next week it should be back into daily use.
Then I'll start rebuilding the 11k mile 4r70w I originally started with. Should be a fun winter project. I'll keep you guys posted.
Thanks so much to everyone that helped.

Malcolm

 

[Savage Wolf]

good luck with this tranny, I like the TCS... if I could find someone who could explain to me how the programing works, so far i have a misc setup on set 1 and have been playing around with the 2nd table but so far I still cant get it to shift smooth like a stock tranny and its been shifting more like a drag car (fun to drive but bad on the milage ) so far I have been happy with the TCS, Baumann has been quite helpfull w/ info to get me up and running even with the fact that I bought a (sorta) used unit from someone else (was wired up but never installed) I did buy my tranny though them as well and my V8 was purchased from the guy who drives their drag car

 

[MalcolmV8]

I noticed tonight my 1st to 2nd shift is super smooth. To the point of been unnoticeable at light throttle at low speed. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th have a slight firmness to them which I'll probably see about smoothing out later. I'm assuming lower the line pressure for part throttle shift?

I'm also going to bump up the min speed at which the torque converter clutch unlocks. Looks like mine is set somewhere around 35 or 40 mph. At those slow speeds the converter needed to unlock going up hills as the motor was straining. I had to press down on the gas pedal till the Max TPS value was hit at which point it unlocked but the truck also wanted to take off as I had to press quite a bit on the gas pedal. Overall I'm very pleased with my starting point. This TSC unit seems to be quite nice so far.

When you say yours is shifting like a drag car do you mean it shifts with force or that it's shifting at very high RPM? I'm wondering how it's making you use more gas?

Thanks
Malcolm

 

[Savage Wolf]

shifts w/ lots of force and at high rpms/speed seems to be set up for WOT shifts, the 2nd program is slowly getting there though

 

[MalcolmV8]

Have you tried their supplied program called 66stang? Seems to be very close to an OEM shift setup. That's what I'm starting with.

Where did you physically mount the Baumann unit? I came across all kinds of ideas and locations. I finally mounted it behind the center console tucked under the dash. It was easy for laptop connections, easy to splice wires since I have the engine ECC in the passenger's kick panel. Then for the wires running to the tranny I cut a hole in the trans tunnel cover plate. I then sealed it with a heavy foam/sponge glued down.

 

[Savage Wolf]

my tcs is mounted in my center console under the cup holders, and due to my laptop not having a serial port I have a 3 foot serial cord and usb adaptor stuck under there with a usb port plug right under my console door
I'll have to check the download from their site as well, the programs are probably new (in the last 2 years) so I'll have to download it and try it out

 

[r37ribution]

I noticed tonight my 1st to 2nd shift is super smooth. To the point of been unnoticeable at light throttle at low speed. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th have a slight firmness to them which I'll probably see about smoothing out later. I'm assuming lower the line pressure for part throttle shift?...

Malcolm, I believe the stiffer shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th is normal (stock) as this is exactly what my bone stock trans does. You have seen how clean the pan was here.

As far as working on making it smoother...I would prefer a qucker more solid shift as there is less power loss in the transition from one gear to another and the quicker the shift the longer your trans will last (the longer it spends time shifting the harder it is on the clutches, ask Glacier for details). I would leave it a harder shift, just my $.02.

 

[MalcolmV8]

R37, thanks for the input. Yesterday I put a total of over a hundred miles on my truck and as if by magic the shifts smoothed out themselves. I didn't do anything. They are not silky smooth but 2->3 and 3->4 seem very much like OEM shifts with just a slight firmness to them. You really don't even noticed it unless you're paying attention.

Another change I noticed over the course of the day was that when I would first pull off from a complete stop, it's almost like there was slop in the driveline and then it would suddenly snap. It was very minor but enough that I could notice especially since I was paying extra attention and trying to find fault and see how everything was running. However when rolling to a stop and then making a complete stop I should have all the driveline slack taken up as the vehicle is in OD and the engine is trying to move me forward. However when I pressed on the gas there'd be a little minor "kick" as it snapped forward. It started to seem like a momentary delay from the tranny, like it had a slight lapse and then suddenly bites down and goes. Well what ever it was it went away too. Somewhere around the 80 miles driven mark I suddenly noticed "hey it's gone".

I'll keep an eye on things and probably in the next day or two I'll start draining fluids and changing filters.

Thanks
Malcolm

 

[Diesel ranger]

Hi Everyone
I am new here and I have been looking over the post trying to help a friend in need! I joined because it appears that there good people trying to help each other and was impressed with the post.

 

[Diesel ranger]

I Have a friend who has a 2002 F150 with a 4R70W t/m. He appears to have lost OD! He found that if he turns the OD off he can drive normally but in OD the engine reves up (as if in netural). I changed the oil and filter and spark plugs because it was running like 3 cylinder.LOL The oil was dark and the pan had the little plug from the factory still in it. The unit has 200k on it but we found no excessive material in the pan but did find some metal particles I would consider normal and some shavings of steel that is a concern but not enough jump to any conclusions. The solenoids are connected with a curcket board type internal harness. I was going to remove and check the solenoids and inspect the screen if it was under the solenoids ( if thats where its at) but was afraid of breaking the wireing. Need to know the trick to removing the solenoids to test and check for sticking. He is a father of two boys and a X wife! Has no money for a major repair and I am trying to do what I can to hopefully save him the cost a junk yard t/m like the earler post from MalcomV8. I am not afraid of rebuilding the t/m just not jumping into it due to cost and time. I rebult a A4LD in my ranger and it lasted till I lifter it and overloaded the t/m. Just dont want to push a rebuild when it could be a simpiler and mor cost effective solution Thanks to All