My exhaust manifold gasket is leaking on the passenger's side., please help!!!!

[93explorereb]

Greetings;

My 1997 explorer xlt 5.0 V8 AWD has a moderate exhaust leak on the passenger's side of the engine. It is so annoying!!! However, I am willing to replace the manifold gasket myself. How much of a PITA job is it to accomplish such? The area is marginally tight for space. However, how much of a job would it be? Would I have to heat these bolts up, or would some PB Blaster help to loosen them. Also would there be a good chance of the bolts being fused into the block/manifold itself? Or would you suggest that I go to a good exhaust specialty shop. I already have the gaskets (advance auto parts). As far a retightening the bolts should I do it myself, would a good hand rachet be better? I would prefer just to replace the bolts too. Now the driver's side is ok and not leaking. It is just this PITA passenger's side. I brought some liquid steel and exhaust high temp expoy. Could this be a good temp method until I make the appropriate repairs? How effective is this liquid steel (2300 degrees F) I picked up both items from Autozone. The leakage is seeping out from the gasket to manifold contacts, I believe in just one or maybe two spots. Lastly what is a good expoy to use for the manifold gasket contact/seal Anyone who has had experience with explorer exhaust manifolds please chime in!!! Even your general suggestions would be appreciated! I have had experience with mostly old caddy big blocks 500,472, 429, and 425's, never really 5.0 exhaust manifold issues. Thanks again!



Best Regards

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I hate to tell you this but I'd be willing to bet your exhaust manifold is cracked and is not the gasket. It's not a matter of if it cracks it's a matter of when.

 

[kitra]

Exhaust manifold leaks.

Our 1999 5.0 was leaking like crazy on the passenger side. I went to tighten the bolts and the ones for the front cylinders were multiple turns loose. Maybe you are lucky and they are loose like mine were. Good luck.

 

[93explorereb]

I hate to tell you this but I'd be willing to bet your exhaust manifold is cracked and is not the gasket. It's not a matter of if it cracks it's a matter of when.

Thanks Dan! Now that would be a problem. Would you suggest that I pickup another manifold from the junkyard? I did see a nice set on a 2000 mercury mountaineer 5.0 AWD. Even though it maybe cracked could the high temp sealant products still be a temp fix? Of course considering how bad of a crack that it is, and or in how many places. I would be willing to pull a good one off in the junkyard. Also could I just ream the manifold stud holes in the block should they become stripped out? Dan, when these particular manifolds crack, where areas of the manifold are more prone to do so? I was considering to just get some soapy water and try and locate the exact spot where the leakage is coming from. Thanks again!

 

[93explorereb]

Our 1999 5.0 was leaking like crazy on the passenger side. I went to tighten the bolts and the ones for the front cylinders were multiple turns loose. Maybe you are lucky and they are loose like mine were. Good luck.

Wow! Thanks Kitra! What was the finally resolution for your debacle? Did you ream new threads into the block? How many miles does it have on it? About how long are the manifold stud bolts. Thanks again!

 

[IAmTodd]

I suffered from a cracked manifold too. Tried tightening before I had it replaced. I would go for a new manifold since a used/salvaged one will end up having the same problem. I would stay away from any time of bonding material because it will crack again. The manifolds seeing extreme temperature differences and will expand and contract at different rates as the sealant.

 

[kitra]

Hopefully the bolts are loose.

I found the bolts loose during a teardown. The bolts are easy to get to through the fender well. Remove the tire and the rubber liner and the bolts can be reached. There's a heat shield on the passenger side that has to come off.

 

[93explorereb]

I found the bolts loose during a teardown. The bolts are easy to get to through the fender well. Remove the tire and the rubber liner and the bolts can be reached. There's a heat shield on the passenger side that has to come off.

Thanks! I had already accessed the area via the fender/wheel well. I did tear off the heat shield, and yes it is cracked one one place. It is a very clean slight split at the weld, as the pipe arches of off the block, on one of the ports. I believe it is the second one from the left. It is very accessible too! I am going to pickup another one, and eventually the driver's side one too, whereas, it too maybe on its way out.

 

[93explorereb]

I hate to tell you this but I'd be willing to bet your exhaust manifold is cracked and is not the gasket. It's not a matter of if it cracks it's a matter of when.

Good call! Thanks Dan!
Now Dan in terms of the quality of the new manifold, is there any particular suggested place in addition to price. I know that Advance Auto Parts wants 244.00 plus. Even rockauto.com is somewhat pricey to the best of my knowledge. The way that the split is, or crack, could it be welded, I mean custom welded. It really isn't a huge split. It seems as though the pipe slightly separated from the joint connection in the pipe, within fractions of an inch. What say you? Thanks again!

 

[93explorereb]

I suffered from a cracked manifold too. Tried tightening before I had it replaced. I would go for a new manifold since a used/salvaged one will end up having the same problem. I would stay away from any time of bonding material because it will crack again. The manifolds seeing extreme temperature differences and will expand and contract at different rates as the sealant.

Your right! I certainly don't need the aggravation repeated almost back to back. Thanks again!

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Good call! Thanks Dan!
Now Dan in terms of the quality of the new manifold, is there any particular suggested place in addition to price. I know that Advance Auto Parts wants 244.00 plus. Even rockauto.com is somewhat pricey to the best of my knowledge. The way that the split is, or crack, could it be welded, I mean custom welded. It really isn't a huge split. It seems as though the pipe slightly separated from the joint connection in the pipe, within fractions of an inch. What say you? Thanks again!

If you can afford it I highly suggest going with Torque Monster Headers. www.hensonperformance.com

They will run about $850 shipped. Not only will they not crack, they help tremendously with power & you will see improved MPG as well.

 

[celly]

I second the headers.

I've had mine for a few months now. They live up to the hype.

 

[93explorereb]

If you can afford it I highly suggest going with Torque Monster Headers. www.hensonperformance.com

They will run about $850 shipped. Not only will they not crack, they help tremendously with power & you will see improved MPG as well.

Yep! I already researched them, I have them on my list. I found a spot selling them for 689.00 or thereabouts. Are there imitations out there? Now what good flowmaster muffler series would be good for these componets? Flow master super, maybe too loud, I was considering a delta 40 or suv 50 series. What further say you? And thanks again!!

 

[93explorereb]

Probably before November 2009, they are nice!!!!!!!!!!!! Other than Flow masters muffler setup, and these headers, would this conclude my exhaust updates? Would this setup require two mufflers or one? Thanks!!

 

[celly]

Yep! I already researched them, I have them on my list. I found a spot selling them for 689.00 or thereabouts.

The ONLY place that sells them (new) seems to be direct from TMH (aka Bob). I think he once marketed them through Explorer Express and eBay as well.

 

[techieman33]

The older stamped style that you have a very prone to cracking. I would but the new cast manifolds to replace them (they're the ones that seem to have a problem with bolts back off. Then if you don't have the external egr just cap it off.

For the muffler you just need one, dual in, single out.

 

[rvhalejr]

5.0L Exhaust Manafold Desing Flaw

Have a passenger side crack in your exhaust manifold where the pipe is welded to the down pipe flange ?

This is a known defect with Ford Explorer and Mustang Engines pre y2k (I think). In or after 98 they went to stainless steel.

Carbon Steel bolts (used before Ford changed to Stainless Steel) will corrode and heads snap off after about 4 yrs. This extra movement (75+ mph in 110+ degree heat hitting freeway potholes) is presumed to be the culprit by most exhaust experts. If your motor mounts are lose it will make the problem worse.

The picture of the $800 chrome manifold in this thread may have the same design defect.

Place your thumb on the inside of the flange (under the weld) and finger on top of the weld bead on the outside. If there is less than 1/2" of material there it may be junk (I do not know if anyone makes a full flange at this intersection but Basic Auto Engineering 101 tells us that a near 90 degree intersection of pipe and flange is just begging for a crack - a very nasty stress point).

As a minimum there should also be a weld bead on the inside of the pipe flange at the end of pipe, if not IMHO it is junk. I've decided to put a bead on the inside (its under the thick part of the flange so it should be ok) even if it voids the limited lifetime warranty. Note that like the motor mounts the bracket holding the muffler and pipe secure needs to be checked.

"Junk" is further defined as finding out the Dealer, Midas and an independent Bake and Muffler shop have replaced more of these on the 5.0L (302ci) engine than on any other, and its always on the passenger side.

All the above mentioned parties are afraid to touch the rusted bolts on the driver side and as such will not give a written quote for replacing them one at a time.

The passenger side will have a new manifold put on (the third one) and the exhaust header flange is thick enough so that there should be enough of the bolt left to grab it with vise grips and turn it to remove. Blowing rust out of the hole, oiling and working the threads by hand is advised before installing the new SS bolts.

Replacing one rusted bolt at a time on the driver side may mean using left handed drill bits, easy outs and all the other tricks (heat cycling and penetrating oils to loosen it up, cold 40 degree engine block, and even heli-coil if it all goes to hell).

Don't let anyone put a torch on it as it may warp or eventually crack the head (thousands to fix). This is a $400 labor repair for each side, all for the want of $40 worth of 16ea ARP Stainless Steel exhaust header bolts (probably heat treated) designed for this extreme high temperature application.

The 98 and 97 Ford Explorers were the number one and two vehicles traded in during the "cash of clunkers" program.

My 97 has AWD and the tow package. When it pulled our boat and double axle trailer up the grape vine (infamous grade outside LA) in 110+ degree heat (air on max) the only vehicle to pass us was a Porsche. The wheel base is narrow and clearance high enough for it to go on mildly difficult jeep trails (at the cost of high speed stability). It goes without saying that with the strut and tire upgrades it corners almost flat.

Having run nothing but synthetic oil in it both the engine and drive train are tight (not counting a few slow fluid leaks). I'm not about to turn loose of this vehicle any time soon, maybe never.

For the less mechanically inclined it goes without saying: give it a long time to warm up (narrowing the crack) and baby it. You do not want to burn up an exhaust valve.

 

[srwilson8074]

Question and advice wanted. I purchased a 95 ford Ranger 4x4, truck is in amazing shape, thhere were a few thing wrong with it, rusted brake lines, just a great vehicle without proper maintainance. I have an exhaust manifold leak, the ticking is starting to drive my wife crazy. Do they make a good set of headers for this truck, or am I stuck buying the exhaust manifolds? Does anyone member have any experience in repairing these, and if so what should I be on the look out for. Thaaanks for your help in advance, God bless and have a Happy Thanksgiving.