My new journey with the a4ld...

[XLTByAccident]

Hey. I wasn't paying attention earlier, but you and daisyrocky may have adjusted your bands incorrectly for a 4.0L application. The ATSG manual says; "Back off the adjusting screw exactly two turns (2.3L, 2.9L and 3.0L engine applications). For a 4.0L engine applications back off the adjusting screw exactly three and a half turns."

 

[jake122288]

Hey. I wasn't paying attention earlier, but you and daisyrocky may have adjusted your bands incorrectly for a 4.0L application. The ATSG manual says; "Back off the adjusting screw exactly two turns (2.3L, 2.9L and 3.0L engine applications). For a 4.0L engine applications back off the adjusting screw exactly three and a half turns."

according to brooklynbay...from the band adjustment spec charts thread this is what sould have been done....

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158160

A4LD:
All Intermediate bands are single wrap. Single wrap band = 2.0 turns back.

1990-1992 Overdrive bands are double wrap, except in mid 1992, which went back to the single wrap band. Double wrap band = 3.5 turns back.

The procedure for adjusting the bands is as follows:
Loosen the nut on the adjusting stud while holding the stud in place. Set your torque wrench to 10 ft.-lbs. (120 in.-lbs.), and tighten the stud. When it reaches 10 ft.-lbs. refer to the above specifications to set the proper amount of turns back. Hold the stud in place, and lock the nut to 35-45 ft.-lbs.

this is what i went by...

and with my trans i never adjusted the overdrive band due to not knowing if i had a double wrap or single since the trans came out of a 1991 but could have been rebuilt by the looks of it which would mean it'd be rebuild with a single wrap versus the double... either way would the intermediate band being adjusted wrong cause the loss of forward for my trans and no engagement?

 

[jake122288]

i also did get the trans dropped from my truck getting gaskets tomorrow to do the bell housing/pump swap....and i was wondering if there is a way to check the pump without actually removing it from the bellhousing? i'd hate to swap bell housings and pumps if my pump is going to go out or is possibly my problem? but would i have reverse still if my pump was weak?

 

[BrooklynBay]

There is a lot of confusion due to conflicting information in the service manuals. One service manual had C3 specs printed. This is the reason I made the band adjustment chart.

As for the pump, a 0-300 PSI test gauge should tell you what the pump is producing in all of the gear ranges.

 

[jake122288]

There is a lot of confusion due to conflicting information in the service manuals. One service manual had C3 specs printed. This is the reason I made the band adjustment chart.

As for the pump, a 0-300 PSI test gauge should tell you what the pump is producing in all of the gear ranges.

i do not have access to a pressure gauge..and the trans is currently out of the truck.

 

[daisyrocky]

First thing I did was adjusted the bands exactly on the chart and the TRS was second before even thinking of removing the transmission from the vehicle. Now on my last install, the transmission shop found out the so called transmission store that sold me the third transmission was fitted with the wrong size center support needle bearings and there was missing friction steel plate plus the fluid pump assembly parts was crushed from results of bad rebuilt. The local tranny shop in my area is H&H Motorsports and they took the time to opened up and examined the transmission since they were going to resell it. I had never imagine these advertised 750.00 rebuilt tranny special to be built so poorly and sometimes it true when they said you get what you paid for. The little dreaded tranny shop that exchanged it three times with a smile is called NGears Tranmissions of Morrisville NC and he is heavily listed in craigslist. From this lesson, you should open up that transmission and check and examine all parts by following the manual or Glacier diary before installing it into your truck. It's not fun after installing it and finds out there is something not repairable or adjustable on the outside.

 

[jake122288]

First thing I did was adjusted the bands exactly on the chart and the TRS was second before even thinking of removing the transmission from the vehicle. Now on my last install, the transmission shop found out the so called transmission store that sold me the third transmission was fitted with the wrong size center support needle bearings and there was missing friction steel plate plus the fluid pump assembly parts was crushed from results of bad rebuilt. The local tranny shop in my area is H&H Motorsports and they took the time to opened up and examined the transmission since they were going to resell it. I had never imagine these advertised 750.00 rebuilt tranny special to be built so poorly and sometimes it true when they said you get what you paid for. The little dreaded tranny shop that exchanged it three times with a smile is called NGears Tranmissions of Morrisville NC and he is heavily listed in craigslist. From this lesson, you should open up that transmission and check and examine all parts by following the manual or Glacier diary before installing it into your truck. It's not fun after installing it and finds out there is something not repairable or adjustable on the outside.

im just not 100 percent comfortable tearing into them completely yet.. i will do some more ready as i rebuild the vb today... and i guess i shall go from there

 

[jake122288]

well tearing into the trans i just got...the pump was deff shot like the guy said... (thats all the farther i wanna tear into it tho... )

now i need to tear into my trans and swap bell housings/pump... is there only the one gasket? on the trans i just recieved i pulled the pump off the bell housing and there is just a "seperator plate" between the pump and the bell housing.and the only gasket i seen was the gasket which is on the back side of the pump where the bell housing bolts to the case. if this is the only gasket i will tear off my pump also and check it since it is already alpart. if not i might skip it or i may make a trip to town and purchase another gasket!

i ended up paying 10 dollars for the large o-ring, pump gasket (the converter housing gasket or any of the various terms) the small o-rings and washers in a package with a filter for the vb and the 2 small pucks for the vb... plus the transfer case to transmission gasket!

 

[jake122288]

well i got them swapped... bellhousings that is new gaskets and o rings. when i pulled the bell housing off it had washers and o-rings so i replaced the bell housing bolts just as they were with new washers and o-rings.

but i did figure out my over drive issues...one the o-d band was not attached at all. and two i pulled the top assembly out (planetary or over drive sprag whatever its called and when i pulled all teh gears out it had a bunch of small metal things in it...

probably a good idea why i never had over drive right and possibly could have cause the drive gears to be lost....

swapping brackets over now and getting the trans put in soon =D hopefully it will be done tonight.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Make sure that every crevice is thoroughly cleaned. I suspect that there might be a lot of fragments caught in different places.

 

[jake122288]

Make sure that every crevice is thoroughly cleaned. I suspect that there might be a lot of fragments caught in different places.

im not putting that trans back in...i have a diff one i putting in the truck...just got the trans put up gotta finish with lines and wiring and all the drivetrain components! then fill her up and see how she works!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Make sure that the front cooler is flushed out before you install a different transmission. A couple of companies make cooler cleaner chemicals.

 

[jake122288]

Make sure that the front cooler is flushed out before you install a different transmission. A couple of companies make cooler cleaner chemicals.

yes i am going to clean it out as was being discussed previously in this thread... any recommendations on cleaning solvents? if not i was planning on just flushing it out with some clean transmission fluid and using my air hose on low to spray it out and get anything out which may be in there.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I have a product review on one cleaner in the product review section of this site: http://www.explorerforum.com/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/226/cat/all

 

[jake122288]

well the new trans is installed... i just did the atf method mentioned with my air hose at about 60psi... i did it until the fluid was completely clean! so i should be good there. glad i did because that fluid was shot!

adding fresh fluid tomorrow along with doing a few finishing touches (rear driveshaft, cross members exhaust) then seeing how it goes! =D

 

[daisyrocky]

Hope you got better luck than I do on that tranny, I would not want anyone went through the tortures like I did on those past weeks. It was not fun at all. Best of luck to you!

 

[jake122288]

Hope you got better luck than I do on that tranny, I would not want anyone went through the tortures like I did on those past weeks. It was not fun at all. Best of luck to you!

well this is the second time i've had to swap...the first swap i was ignorant and didnt look it over at all just took it used slapped it in...will never do that again! 200 dollars for 50 miles without od and crazy shifts! it wasnt worth it lol this one was rebuilt recently b4 the pump cracked and i made sure to look for proof of reciepts and such (i guess it was done at a ford dealership locally to the guy i traded for it!) hoping to get some good miles on this as i cant afford to keep dropping trans/parts into a trans! im going to do a fluid flush after about 100 miles along with a fresh trans filter tho to help make sure i got everything out and good next mod after christmas...temp gauge and drain plug!

 

[jake122288]

well...got it all buttoned up...and filled her up...and no drive or reverse.... i pulled the two lines off the front which go into the cooler and no fluid is coming out...so im guessing the pump i just put in isnt good....i guess its what i get for not looking into it deeper... i didnt have a pump alignment tool so i didnt pull it off the bell housing...now i gotta pull it all abck downa nd try again! what a pita! does anyone know if oreillys has a pump alignment tool they rent?

 

[jake122288]

Bump? someone also told me you can skip out on teh alignment tool and just use the Torque converter? is this possible?

 

[XLTByAccident]

You cannot allign the pump using the torque converter. Without the alignment tool, you may get a seal leak, gear noise or pump breakage (maybe that's what happened to the previous pump).

Recheck your fluid level. It takes a lot to fill the converter.

If the fluid level is good and you are still not getting any fluid pumping or pressure, check to make sure that you have the torque converter installed all the way. The transmission and torque converter should be installed together and then bolted to the fly wheel after installation. Some people bolt the torque converter to fly wheel first and then try to fit the transmission to it. Pretty risky and difficult to to do and the torque converter is not likely to get seated all the way in and be able to turn the pump. The nose of the torque converter to the edge of the bell housing should measure 7/16 " to 9/16". Anything less means you don't have the converter installed all the way.