my rear window has been attacked by gremlins...

[Pheonixx77]

really weird, i picked the truck up from the shop today, oil change, front wheel bearing bad, new fan clutch and rear brakes were squealing(yay for warranty) so on the way home i put down the rear window, which until now has worked absolutely flawlessly. the window goes down, no problem. going up sounds like the window that time forgot...groannnnnnnnnnwhineeee then it stops about where it would stop if you pushed vent then goes back down. does this every time i pushed the button, for like 5 minutes solid.

soo... i hop on the forum and find the reset procedure...YAY! it made it worse...

now its all the way down and i get no noises, no nothing. all fuses are ok and all the other windows work fine.

so i try the reset procedure again, ok now it goes up about half way and stops dead. hmmm

i run the reset routine again...i just gained about 4 inches and it stops dead again. all the while groaning like i woke it up from a 14 year hibernation.

i run the reset once more and i get a few more inches. Now we are about 2 inches from the top and i left it there so at least i could sleep knowing my truck was not open for any passer by to climb into and pillage.

so what the hell is going on here? is my motor going bad or the regulator? and yes the dealership will be covering this, i just will have to point them in the right direction.

 

[03OhioSportTrac]

Dang...:thumbdwn:

 

[ncranchero]

Well either it's binding in the track (channel felt bad maybe), the cable casing has rusted and broken, a roller broken or the motor gear is eating itself alive. It will probably be impossible to tell until you open it up. The steel cable casings are BAD to rust and break.

This view would be looking at the back side of the apparatus.

 

[Pheonixx77]

well the dealer ship gave me the run around and will now NOT be covering this. i'll be picking up the tab.

would a used motor be a wise idea here? i may run into the same issue day after i install it or never.

what all is involved in removing the motor? i was back there this morning and by the looks of it i need to remove the pioneer sub from under the seat, fold the seats down take out the spring loaded covers, the plastic and a large metal plate covering the window the motor is on the passenger side still wrapped in a bubble. i figure a heavy dose of white lithium grease on the tracks may help if i replace the motor or not.

 

[ncranchero]

First, now that you've taken a break go back and read the initialization instructions very carefully and follow them exactly....drivers door open and all. If it does nothing be sure your fuses are both good. If all that fails you're pretty close in already knowing what to remove to get to the apparatus. The motor unbolts off of the gear case/regulator assembly. Figuring out exactly where the problem lies can be done after you get it opened up. I'd check the wiring for proper 12v & grounds @ the plug closest to the motor before I removed much of the operating pieces. Remember when removing the "bubble" over the motor and the regulator cover that these will have to be resealed completely to keep water out. Use care.

What is the production date on your door sticker. There are some slight wiring connector differences with 2/18/02 being the date in question. I believe that the "before" model harnesses have a "jumper" section with a flat connector that is accessible without removing any of the "bubble". The "after" harness hooks directly to the motor.

 

[Pheonixx77]

i actually printed out the initialization and followed it, exactly, about 4 times. thats how i got the window as high as i did, well that and a little "oomph" from the wife. im fairly certain its the motor, but ill be dammed if this didn't happen the day i got it back from the dealer. It worked perfect until then. When i pulled the plastic off and everything behind the seats nothing looked touched.

i called a local boneyard they have a complete assembly tracks, motor, cables etc for 150, im really tempted to go for that since ford wants 150 just for the regulator and another 120 for the motor.
how should i reseal the "bubble" nc? silicone or just a healthy helping of mashed duct tape.

 

[Pheonixx77]

production date is 07/02

 

[ncranchero]

1) Notice, in my photo above, the rubber sleeve encasing the cable housing. Examine the cables. Even mine are a bit rusty and I'm not in the heavily salted north. Make sure the housing on your, and/or the bone yard piece, has not rusted in two. Lubricate the cable/casing liberally before re-installation.
2) Make sure the rollers on whichever assembly you use are not cracked/broken and turn freely.
3) You HAVE checked to see that the electrical signals/voltages are actually present at the motor connector?

Used vs New, your money and your time. I don't buy new unless it's unavailable used. But I work cheap!!

Re-sealing? The "bubble" I duct taped, the access panel for the regulator I siliconed and duct taped.

 

[Pheonixx77]

thanks for the info, i may be getting into this this weekend. depends on time and money. im likely going to take everything apart and spray some white lithium grease on everything that has a moving part and see where that gets me. if the cables are toast ill have to bite the bullet. but im hoping i can lube things up and be ok.