Nail in 1 tire --> Told to replace all 4!?!?

[Mbrooks420]

There’s nothing “unsafe” about running 32 psi in the tires. I’m not a cheapskate who needs to squeeze EVERY last mile out of a tire. The “best” tire pressure is going to be a combination of ride, handling, and mileage. Running 44 psi (or near tire max) will not have the braking, or corning ability of the typical P radial or LT tire. I’ll take improved ride and safer handling over a few measly miles.

Your fronts and rears don’t have to ( and never will) wear at the same rate. That’s the entire point of rotating them.

 

[peterk9]

I don't think it is wise to fill to 10 psi below or to the maximum pressure since driving will increase the tire's psi. Extended highway driving or driving in hot temperatures can increase psi by as much as 10 psi, Mine is 32 front and 38 rear.

Tire PSI or Vehicle Manufacturer PSI: What’s the Difference? | Emergency Response

maclintruckandtrailer.com

Peter

 

[BKennedy]

Depends on the manufacturer, type of tire, size, all are factors in determining how much air to run. In my RV, the tires are rated well in excess of 100 pounds, but if I run more than 85 PSI, it drifts all over the highway and rides horrible. In my Explorer, the 35" Maxxis Razr's are rate for 44 PSI but I run 28 for the same reason as the RV, and if I go over that it wears the tires right down the center. With performance cars I will usually run them towards the max because I don't care how the tires wear in that type of vehicle. With the Silverado, I am no where near the max rating on the tires or they will wear out right down the middle and ride horrible. I am at least 15 pounds under the tire rating.

So anyway, did the OP plug the tire or get a new set?

 

[fireftr]

As an owner, where do you get accurate tire pressure? If you say the door/pillar/owners manual, how does this apply when you change the tires? The rims? How often does the average person check their tires? How low is unsafe? Does it matter where my load goes? How do I, as an owner know which axle the load is on? As an owner do I or am I required to do a weight and balance sheet every time my vehicle is loaded or unloaded?
Legal opinions: Did Ford try to place all blame on Firestone after choosing what pressure they posted on the door/pillar/owners manual? + All load ratings.
Engineering answer: Constant over or under pressure will cause tire failure. A tire is a multilayer balloon. If it is run a over-pressue the tire will wear in the center. Under-pressure the tire will wear faster on the shoulders. Sufficient under/over pressure will cause tire failure. Under-pressure will the tire to concave and overheat causing delamination of the belts. (I have seen this on multiple brands of tires. The usual warning is the tire develops a bubble, vehicle may or may not develop abnormal vibrations. I have both seen this and felt this on both the tread and the sidewall of the tire.
Tire engineer opinion: What did I put on the product?

As to the patch/plug the safest answer is always to replace.
As an owner, what happens when you get a tire serviced under warranty?
Why is a patch preferred by most shops?
If the OP's tires were under warranty what would happen with almost all cases? How many owners are tracking that a driven axle should not have 2 different size tires? That an axle with any form of trac lock differential is in the same boat as the OP? Must replace both at the same time. Yes, selectable as well.

Most correctly, a tire manufactuer should specify a no repair or type of repair on the tire. Why?

The sidewall information is your tire owners manual.

https://www.tireindustry.org/reading-tire-sidewall#:~:text=Another important piece of information,Tire Identification Number, or TIN.

This has to comply with DOT.

Traction, wear, and safety. The tire is designed to be operated at a specified pressure and max loading. If you took my E350 tires and put them on your Explorer, they would be improperly matched to the vehicle. The were designed for a much higher load capacity. It would be unsafe to do this. Why? Your rims might fail. The max pressure for your rims is way lower than mine. Now the questions and concerns can continue, but, this is already retardedly long. Please, explain "wildly inaccurate".

Wow! You’re either overly concerned about your tires, or you’re having a good time asking tire questions the normal driver would never, ever think of!

 

[Mbrooks420]

Depends on the manufacturer, type of tire, size, all are factors in determining how much air to run. In my RV, the tires are rated well in excess of 100 pounds, but if I run more than 85 PSI, it drifts all over the highway and rides horrible. In my Explorer, the 35" Maxxis Razr's are rate for 44 PSI but I run 28 for the same reason as the RV, and if I go over that it wears the tires right down the center. With performance cars I will usually run them towards the max because I don't care how the tires wear in that type of vehicle. With the Silverado, I am no where near the max rating on the tires or they will wear out right down the middle and ride horrible. I am at least 15 pounds under the tire rating.

So anyway, did the OP plug the tire or get a new set?

He plugged it, and was having no issues at last report.

 

[BKennedy]

He plugged it, and was having no issues at last report.

Cool, time to unsubscribe this thread

 

[DMonk]

On my 2011 Limited, there is a small nail in the sidewall of 1 tire which is unfixable (I'm told).
The tire center at a local large warehouse store says I need to replace all 4 tires because:
1) it's an AWD vehicle
2) the tread depth on three other tires is about 8/32nds, the new tire will be about 12/32nds. The difference in tire diameter will raise havoc with the AWD.

Is this true?
Do I really need to replace all 4?

Unfortunately, yes, you do. Or at least you should. You can always sell the other 3 good tires to recoup some of your money. You could also look at it as an opportunity to upgrade.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

Here we go again.

 

[Runamuk13]

The OP here.
The 1 week Update ......
I plugged the tire on Sunday the 11th. Today, 10 days later, no change in tire pressure.
During those 10 days, I have driven as normal - some city, some highway, about 200 miles.
The plug is doing it's job. Big shout out to the Stop & Go tire plugging kit.

Today will be a great test - I'm pulling a small travel trailer over a mountain pass to eastern WA. About 190 miles, mostly highway. I expect to have no problem with the tires. I'll let you know.

 

[94Eddie]

The OP here.
The 1 week Update ......
I plugged the tire on Sunday the 11th. Today, 10 days later, no change in tire pressure.
During those 10 days, I have driven as normal - some city, some highway, about 200 miles.
The plug is doing it's job. Big shout out to the Stop & Go tire plugging kit.

Today will be a great test - I'm pulling a small travel trailer over a mountain pass to eastern WA. About 190 miles, mostly highway. I expect to have no problem with the tires. I'll let you know.

I have plugged a number of tires over the years and a few were in the "grey zone" on the tread. They all lasted without a single issue until the tire was replaced due to normal wear. Thanks for the updates. It will be helpful for people using this thread as a resource in the future.

 

[jpz]

I'm sure you will be fine with the tire plugged. I see no reason to replace all 4 tires for a 1/8" difference between new and old, or to not plug the location you plugged. Sure a shop may tell you "no" but that's because people will sue over anything anymore.

 

[peterk9]

I went in to get my winter tires replaced with the OEM ones last month and noticed that the tech mounted one of my OEM tires on the rim and then shortly after removed it again. He then did some work to the inside of the tire. I asked him if there was a problem at which time he produced a roofing nail that had been in the tire. It was fixed and the tire was then put back on the wheel. Not sure exactly where the nail was but looking at the area where he was working if appeared to be on the thread portion but towards the sidewall. There was no charge for the repair.

Peter

 

[Runamuk13]

the OP here with an update ....

Over the weekend, I pulled a 4000 pound travel trailer about 400 miles including 2 trips up & over a mountain pass. The plugged tire never missed a beat. Today, that tire has the same air pressure as it did when I plugged it 2 weeks ago. Also, that plugged tire is mounted on the front which puts a bit more stress on it.

Thanks to all of you that responded.

A round of applause for the Stop & Go Tire Plugging kit.

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’s not gonna just start leaking. If a plug seals, it’s essentially a part of the tire.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

the OP here with an update ....

Over the weekend, I pulled a 4000 pound travel trailer about 400 miles including 2 trips up & over a mountain pass. The plugged tire never missed a beat. Today, that tire has the same air pressure as it did when I plugged it 2 weeks ago. Also, that plugged tire is mounted on the front which puts a bit more stress on it.

Thanks to all of you that responded.

A round of applause for the Stop & Go Tire Plugging kit.

Thanks for the update. You didn't really have much to lose trying it as long as you had a way to air it up.

 

[23ST]

Thanks for all your responses and explanations. Sounds like I better start saving my lunch money for 4 new tires.

For those of you asking for a picture ....
View attachment 329318

I have a tire plugging kit for my motorcycle. Should I try it on this tire?

I just had mine repaired at Discount Tire. Same exact location where a screw went in. Zero charge too.