Need balljoints for the '99... confused on MOOG parts...

[SplashMan]

OK, I have the lowers figured out...
MOOG Part # K8695T
Frt Susp; Lower; 4WD; Enhanced Design, 2 Required {Ball Joint}

And the upper left hand...
MOOG Part # K8708T
Frt Susp; Upper; LH; 4WD; Enhanced Design; Incl. bushings {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}

But there are two differant ones for the upper right hand...
MOOG Part # K80068
Frt Susp; Upper; RH; 4WD; 1 piece design; Incl. bushings {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}

MOOG Part # K8710T
Frt Susp; Upper; RH; 4WD; Enhanced Design; 2 piece design; Incl. bushings {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}

Anyone know the differance? Which should I get?

I have a couple pics I found...
First pic is just the lower balljoint.
Second is the upper left hand.
Third is the Enhanced Design; 2 piece upper righthand.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Unless you KNOW you need the bushings on the right upper, just get the 1-pc RH upper. If you take a look at your X, you'll notice that the unit in the lowermost pic actually bolts to another "control arm" that actually connects to the frame. That is what the 2-pc design looks like.

 

[SplashMan]

OK, I think I get it. Basicly if I want or need all new bushings then get the

MOOG Part # K8710T
Frt Susp; Upper; RH; 4WD; Enhanced Design; 2 piece design; Incl. bushings {Control Arm w/Ball Joint}

It is only like $20 more, so I may as well do everything.

Thanks.

 

[sport01mi]

Ok, so I bought new control arms and ball joints for the uppers but the right one they shipped is the two piece and the left is just the one piece... is this correct?

I ordered:

335 K8708T
335 K8710T

Can I swing this without having to buy more parts? Sorry, im a bit confused.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Yeah, that's right - the DriverSide is one piece, a V-shape and includes the bushings (see pic on right above). The 2-pc PassSide includes the ball joint & arm (see lower pic above) PLUS the control arm part with the bushings (not pictured). The ball joint & arm bolts to the control arm on the passenger side (see lower pic again; note the alignment slots in the arm). You technically do not need the part with the bushings, just the outer ball-joint part, but if you bought them and have it all apart anyway, you might as well install both parts and save yourself trouble down the line.

You should also look into installing a camber kit while you're at it (is used for alignment purposes). When you go to get an alignment afterward (highly recommended) you'll likely be required to have them installed to get back within spec. The kit should only be $20-30 from your local parts store and it's the same as re-installing the bolts that hold the control arms in place anyway. Don't NOT do it and have the alignment place charge you $100-150 to have THEM do it for you. When i did mine, i did not know this, and in the end lost $100+ b/c if it.

 

[gijoecam]

Most companies are moving away from the two-piece design for simplicity's sake. Personally, I want the two-piece on there. Without it, they can't make the camber match from side to side.

-Joe

 

[Doubt Incarnate]

let us know about how much it costs and how long it takes you. the shop quoted me 950 with an alignment, and he's guranteeing work and parts for lifetime.

 

[sport01mi]

So this brings me to another question.. which camber kit to buy?

MOOG Part # K8674
Frt Susp; Upper; 4WD; Caster/Camber Adjusting Cams; adjustment range from -1-1/4 to +1-1/4 Deg., 2 Required {Alignment Caster/Camber Kit}
$14.64


MOOG Part # K80065
Frt Susp; 4WD; Caster/Camber Adjusting Cams; adjustment range from -1-5/8 to +1-5/8 Deg., 2 Required {Alignment Camber Kit}
$20.79


Edit:
I'm changing both uppers and the left lower. The right lower I had replaced about 6 months ago and has a lifetime warrenty.. im guessing the 2nd kit is for the lowers?

Thanks again.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

If you haven't done this already, just go with the more expensive/wider ranging camber kit - if for some reason (down the line) your alignment is really outta spec, the latter of the 2 camber kits will allow for more adjustment...and for only $12 more when it's all said and done.

Will you absolutely need it? Maybe not, but for $12 it's nice to have that there, cuz if you DO need it a couple years from now, it'll be $42 to buy the kits all over again plus the labor to install them all over again.

Someone wise said once "buy the best and cry only once" - i agree

 

[Doubt Incarnate]

i just got mine back from the shop, it was getting to dangerous to wait longer. a painfull $980 but it put the sport back in my sport ute. and since they are greasable now i shouldnt have to worry about them ever again as long as i give them a squirt of grease or two when i change to oil.

 

[sport01mi]

Yeah, I hope to get on this job within the next couple weeks because I've been driving on these bad joints for over 6 months now. It's only a matter of time before one of them gets crushed and I end up veering off into a ditch or car for that matter.

 

[sport01mi]

just did the job today... hardest part was getting the driver side upper control arm off due to the lack of room for the bolts to com out. the ride feels a lot better.

 

[kelly2]

mine should be in on wed (mar. 29). knew it was getting real bad when the "galloping horses" quit galloping. my total cost from rockauto.com was $308 shiped for the upper arm + balljoint (qty. 2), lower ball joints (qyt.2), 1 5/8" caster kit (qty. 2)

 

[jester6]

let us know about how much it costs and how long it takes you. the shop quoted me 950 with an alignment, and he's guranteeing work and parts for lifetime.

Sounds about right. We had 4wheel parts replace the upper & lower ball joints on both sides. Came to $980.

 

[Jake's Dad]

I have the Moog's on my 97 (upper and lower). How do we grease them, and with what? Can you actually get to them?

JD

 

[kelly2]

i'll try to take a pic tomorrow to show you. just use a standard hand held grease gun with attachment for zerk fittings (most guns come with it already)

 

[kelly2]

sorry it took so long. the zerk fitting is kinda dirty but you can still make it out. the first two is the balljoint (2nd a close up) and the third is a standard hand held grease gun.

 

[Pontisteve]

mine should be in on wed (mar. 29). knew it was getting real bad when the "galloping horses" quit galloping. my total cost from rockauto.com was $308 shiped for the upper arm + balljoint (qty. 2), lower ball joints (qyt.2), 1 5/8" caster kit (qty. 2)

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but I need to know if you need just one caster kit, or two, per car.

The picture at rock auto looked like it had 4 cams, 2 bolts in it. Isn't that enough to do the whole car?

Also, could someone tell me how you get the bolts out of the left control arm? Looks like some fuel or brake lines are in the way of the bolt backing out far enough.

 

[KPT]

Its enough to do the front end. I know nothing about the IRS if that's what you're talking about.

The factory bolts are a PAIN IN THE ASS to get out of the left side. Patience and plenty of beer is all that helps. The moog is much easier to get in as the cam is not attached to the bolt.

 

[Pontisteve]

I guess I should have mentioned that it's for my g/f's 98 Explorer, not my 03.

I've never done this particular job before, and I'm totally unfamiliar with alignment procedures. I did take a peek at the truck today, and noticed the ball joint boots were all but gone. I know the ball joints and control arms are serviced together.

Looking at the truck, it appeared to me that it was pretty easy looking, except for getting out that left upper control arm bolt. Looks like it will hit some lines coming out. Any advice is appreciated. How do you get the bolt out? Are there any other pitfalls to pulling the control arms off? How do the cams work, and what's it take to get them off? Anything you HAVE to know or watch for when disassembling?

As for the Rear IRS suspension, I recently became on expert on that issue, as I replaced my rear pads, rear shoes, rear wheel bearings, rear axle seals, cv joint dust seals, etc. all in one shot. Not fun.