Need help on rear main brand

[Cole94]

The following link goes to rockauto for the rear mains for my exploder, and they dont have a ford seal. Which brand is a suitable replacement?

1994 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Crankshaft Seal | RockAuto

Also, what else should be replaced while I'm there? I'm gonna do the transmission front seal, as well as drain and refill my torque converter because my fluid isnt exactly the reddest. I want to go ahead and do my oil pan gasket, and with 300k miles, would an oil pump be in order?

Please help, I need the seal to be here by this weekend. Thank you.

 

[410Fortune]

Fel pro or Mahle
I would get the Fel Pro PTFE seal and install tool for $20

BUT:

Oil pan gasket in the truck? You might consider pulling the engine not the trans
Then you can do the oil filter mount O ring, the timing cover gasket, valve cover gaskets, these are the leak prone areas on a ohv.
Heck just install a new gasket set from Victor Reinz or Mahle.
Forget doing the front pump gasket on the transmission you are asking for issues if it is not leaking now......

I would order full engine gasket set, new oil pump, new timing chain set, waterpump, thermostat, and consider new lifters and pushrods.........
Pull the engine not the trans

 

[Cole94]

Thank you 410, I knew you would have valuable input on this.
You have me leaning towards just pulling the engine. This thing runs strong, but at 300k miles I am weary about pulling the engine for a reseal just to have to pull it again in less than 50k miles for a rebuild. Then again, it runs strong, doesent burn oil or coolant, and only has a light lifter tick when warm. I could see the engine running another 50k at least.
Do I have to pill the heads for lifters? If so, I might just do the reseal, timing chain and seal, water pump, and rockers+pushrods. Perhaps some other things to freshen her up. I dont wanna go messing with heads especially when these are stock and prone to cracking.
As to pulling the motor, will she fit between the radiator and the firewall if I remove the fan and fan shroud?

 

[410Fortune]

Yes pushrod 4.0 heads must come off to get the lifters out a real pita BUT the weakest parts of the ol high mile pushrods are the lower intake and head gaskets so its a great opportunity to do those.
I have seen these engines never touched and pass emissions with 480K miles on them so........if they are never run hot the pushrod can last half a million, if you refresh it now it can make it another 150K
Have a look at the bottom end while the pan is off, make sure there is no scoring or discoloration of any of the crank or cam bearings, now is your chance to look in there.
I would pull the radiator too, gives you more space....actually I have never tried to pull the 4.0 without first removing the radiator so Im not sure if it will fit I would not attempt.....

 

[Cole94]

Alrighty 410. Heeding your advice I closely inspected my engine. After inspection, the oil pan is leaking all the way around, the water pump gasket is leaking coolant, and my passenger side valve cover gasket is leaking even though I just replaced them with fel pro cork gaskets. Disappointing because I got everything I needed for the rear main. Consider it a lesson learned.
Bottom line: engine is coming out. I'm going to go cry in the corner now.
I will be replacing the aforementioned gaskets as well as the water pump, but I'm leaving the heads and lifters alone. Don't fix what ain't broken, right? I'll tackle a rebuild down the road should it be nessacary, which looks like it will be, she ran hot a couple times due to some complications about 25k miles ago.
Any more input, stuff I should check while down there? All input is extremely appreciated. Thank you so much.

Edit: on second thought, my timing cover gasket is a slow weep. Never makes it to the ground. Itll be fine. Valve cover gasket can be replaced with engine in the truck, so that leaves oil pan. How high can I lift the engine without any major disconnections like coolant or exaust? High enough to remove the pan?
OR
Has anyone ever removed the pan just by removing the front suspension components? I realize the engine will need to be held up while the mounts are out... is the frame ok to have that crossmember removed? I am really inclined to do it this way. I really need some input on this method... maybe I should make a new thread as this is a different topic...

 

[BKennedy]

You cannot remove the oil pan without unhooking/unbolting the engine and lifting it away from the cross member. There is simply not enough room. That cross member has the mounts to your front I beams so you cannot remove that.

My oil pan is leaking again after replacing the gasket a few years ago. I cut out the cross member under the engine and fabricated a removable one. I have a solid front axle so I could do that. Installing the oil pan was still difficult with the engine bolted to the transmission. There is a goofy long pan bolt on the back end that is very hard to line up with the transmission in place. I think next time, I am going to RTV the heck out of it and skip the gasket.

 

[Cole94]

You cannot remove the oil pan without unhooking/unbolting the engine and lifting it away from the cross member. There is simply not enough room. That cross member has the mounts to your front I beams so you cannot remove that.

My oil pan is leaking again after replacing the gasket a few years ago. I cut out the cross member under the engine and fabricated a removable one. I have a solid front axle so I could do that. Installing the oil pan was still difficult with the engine bolted to the transmission. There is a goofy long pan bolt on the back end that is very hard to line up with the transmission in place. I think next time, I am going to RTV the heck out of it and skip the gasket.

Yeah after a little looking I found my crossmember to be riveted to the frame along with the spring mounts.
Guess I'll be lifting the engine. My best guess is about 3-6 inches will do it. I'll remove the upper intake manifold as well as the y-pipe at the catalytic converter, the rear transmission mount, and the driveshafts at the t-case (dont want them yokes slipping apart and I have to regrease front yoke anyway), and just lift her slow with a hoist and keep a close eye on everything with a helper watching too. I plan on tearing her out within 50k miles for a top end rebuild, bottom end inspection, and a gasket set anyway. Thank you guys. Any more input is always welcome. Thank you.

 

[MrQ]

my passenger side valve cover gasket is leaking even though I just replaced them with fel pro cork gaskets. Disappointing because I got everything I needed for the rear main.

Never use cork gaskets, they are the worst material (they are really too soft and don't respond to heat and oil well) and always wind up leaking. I guess Ford spec'd them from the factory that way to save a few pennies on the assembly line.

Also @Brian1 is selling reinforcement brackets that fit over the OHV valve covers so the clamping force from the bolts is much more even (the valve covers are just made out of thin gauge stamped steel so they have a tendency to warp under pressure causing leaks, another Ford cost saving measure.). They are a little pricey but Brian does great work and you will never have to worry about leaks from them again. My friends bought 3 sets already and love them.