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Need help plzzz...Im a honda mechanic

d15beater

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I usually dont touch to many domestic cars and stick to the import world. My problem is my neighbor has a early ninties model ranger with a 2.3 liter 4 cylinder. The problem im having is diagnosing a issue where the truck wont start. i disconnected the inlet line at the fuel filter and the pump is pumping fuel. I also checked the coils and wires for spark. Its a 2 coil, 8 plug setup. When you turn the key over you get the usual ding-ding-ding...but then I get a beep-beep-beep that is coming from the passenger side footwell. I read and searched and came up with a few things. Im just interested in one inparticular. I read that there is a switch over there in the passenger footwell that will trip a safety switch for the fuel pump......could this be associated to the beep-beep im hearing?? Another thing is the fuel pump relay could be bad, where is that relay located? The truck did start at first and to me sounded like the cam timing was off, but if this was the issue it would always start but run crappy like so, so im throwing the timing jump issue out. That leaves cleaning the IACV on the manifold, checking, replacing the fuel filter, replacing the fuel pump. Just FYI when i unhooked the inlet line to the fuel filter the system didnt spray and i never touched the pressure releif valve under the hood. Im under the impression that if the fuel lines had the appropriate pressure on them fuel should have sprayed everywhere. Like I said im mostly a Honda/Acura tech and theyre much less complex and simplier to trouble shoot.I am very thankful for any helpful feedback. I suuposed take a good look at the truck tommorrow in my garage. Thanx.
 



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Welcome to this forum! Check to see if the check engine light turns on when you turn the key to the accessory position. If not, then the computer relay (PCM) is defective, or the PCM has a bad ground near the battery. The inertia switch is that part which has a reset button on the top of it. It cuts the power going to the fuel pump if it trips. The fuel pump relays are also known to go bad. The relays are located under the hood in the same location. There should be a few relays in a row.
 






Welcome to Explorer Forum! I used to be a BIG Honda guy. I have EF, ED, and EG parts all over my house. Good luck with your problem!
 






if your fuel pump is running then the inertia switch is not tripped
the fuel pump relay and fuse will also be good.

You should check fuel pressure at the rail however, just because the pump is running does not mean the fuel rail is pressurized with enough fuel.

The beep beep I have never encountered before, as far as I am aware there is no factory device on that side of the truck that should be beeping

Dont forget to clean the MAS air sensor
Check the cat converter to ensure it is not clogged (test pipe or visual inspection)
 












Oh and i pulled the plugs today too. Two of them have cracks in the porcelin, im thinking that they may be arching on the block before the fire ever hits the plug. Its a work truck and see alot of miles. The plugs are autolites....the kind you see at walmart for 59 cent....JK, but yeah they look like sheet. The filter looks to be a original or really cheap replacement. Also what kind of filter housing shoud this truck have??? It has a long tube thing found in ford vans with a filter in it. And has two air intake temp sensors.... The truck is a january of 95, well thats whats on the door anyway. Thanx
 






two air intake temp sensors? you sure?
If only one is hooked up then its likely he got a different intake tube from another Ford.

Then again the 2.3 8 plug is not something I am familiar with

do a search for cleaning the MAS or MAF

nothing wrong with autolite plugs they are the same as Motocraft, which is what I would run in there, the OEM plug

Many 90's Fords have the bucket looking air box, nothing wrong with that, but if its not original make sure he didnt just drop some other Ford MAS sensor in the mix, that could cause all sorts of issues

Have you checked for codes? With cracked plugs I would expect some misfire codes possibly
 






two air intake temp sensors? you sure?
If only one is hooked up then its likely he got a different intake tube from another Ford.

Then again the 2.3 8 plug is not something I am familiar with

do a search for cleaning the MAS or MAF

nothing wrong with autolite plugs they are the same as Motocraft, which is what I would run in there, the OEM plug

Many 90's Fords have the bucket looking air box, nothing wrong with that, but if its not original make sure he didnt just drop some other Ford MAS sensor in the mix, that could cause all sorts of issues

Have you checked for codes? With cracked plugs I would expect some misfire codes possibly

Thing is it was running fine last week. He described what sounded to me like fuel filter issues. Here we go I changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned the valve on te throttle body, cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner, cleaned the EGR valve on the back of the intake. Also there is no check engine light tripping. Still not running rite. I wanna cheack the cam for tdc but have no idea where to start....fords sure are different from hondas. If that checks out im gonna drop the tank and replace the fuel pump. Any more ideas are welcome.
 






Unplugged the MAF sensor just to see if it ran any different...it did, it wasnt 100% but it didnt die and cut off like it was doing before. im now leaning towards replacing that. What are some other ford/mazdas i can try sensors off of? I know a probe came with a 2.3 too....maybe a mazda off some sort...Im in no hurry but am very well....I just cant stop till i figure stuff out.
 






Back then Ford's first IAT sensor design was not a long lasting part. It is somewhat common to have that sensor fail and cause a lot of rough running issues. The older sensor is an obvious "match" appearing thing. When new they look exactly like a match, and a failed one typically is filthy or broken. They used to be around $25-30. If you have done the other tune-up stuff, then that would be on my list.
 


















Welcome to this forum! Check to see if the check engine light turns on when you turn the key to the accessory position. If not, then the computer relay (PCM) is defective, or the PCM has a bad ground near the battery. The inertia switch is that part which has a reset button on the top of it. It cuts the power going to the fuel pump if it trips. The fuel pump relays are also known to go bad. The relays are located under the hood in the same location. There should be a few relays in a row.


Which one of these relays are for the fuel pump or is it all of them?? how do you test a relay??? Can they be soldered like honda relays can. Over time heat can cause the solder joints in honda relays to become brittle and seperate...breaking the connection. Is this sortta the same problem?
 






Just a thought, if the t-belt is loose enough to jump teeth on the gears it can knock out the crank trigger on these models. You have to remove the timing cover. It's not a big job. The 3 timing marks are all in plain sight. Good luck.
 






Just a thought, if the t-belt is loose enough to jump teeth on the gears it can knock out the crank trigger on these models. You have to remove the timing cover. It's not a big job. The 3 timing marks are all in plain sight. Good luck.

you couldny tell me where the ICM is and what it does could you?
 






Are those relays that you have under the hood colored. Ford used to spread the relays around the entire vehicle, and they were rather large in size, with special receptacle connectors.

Green was the magic color for all of those fuel pump relays, the Mustangs had them under a seat. My Lincoln had it in the trunk, but others were elsewhere under the hood. What made those bad is that they would not interchange usually. A green relay cannot be used in a black connector, etc.

If the mileage on that engine is over 75-100k, I'd seriously want to know when the timing belt was last changed. That's a critical wear component, it must be in good condition.
 






I think the air bag module is defective. I was working on a 94 Aerostar with a similar problem. The dashboard light didn't flash. The module kept beeping, and the air bag didn't open in an accident.
 






Are those relays that you have under the hood colored. Ford used to spread the relays around the entire vehicle, and they were rather large in size, with special receptacle connectors.

Green was the magic color for all of those fuel pump relays, the Mustangs had them under a seat. My Lincoln had it in the trunk, but others were elsewhere under the hood. What made those bad is that they would not interchange usually. A green relay cannot be used in a black connector, etc.

If the mileage on that engine is over 75-100k, I'd seriously want to know when the timing belt was last changed. That's a critical wear component, it must be in good condition.

Belt feels tight, but that doesnt mean it couldnt have jumped. All the relays i see under the hood are black. Some in the long slim fuse box...Some more on the right side but im sure they are headlight relays.185,00 miles. The whole front end came from a black ranger at some point, the rest of the trcuk is red...yep. Weelded chassis arent good for good grounds either. Im stumped on this thing though.
 






Checked the cam timing this morning and it perfect. Also cleaned the MAF sensor, and all other electrical plugs with electric parts cleaner. The truck will idle but sound like the ignition isnt firing when it should. Its firing before the intake valves are shut. How do i know well i got it to idle and while it was i attemted to run seafoam through the brake booster line. When i dipped the hose in the glass i was using you could tell air was being blown through that line. I may be a honda mechanic but I know brake booster line shouldnt be blowing but should be drawing vacumn. There is no way to advance the ignition timing on these trucks is there. I know the damn thing is firing before the valves are shut, i know it, but i dont know why. Is there a ignition control modual that can be replaced??? Im so stumped this thing.
 



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Doesn't that have a distributor, it is adjustable. The igntion module isn't a bad idea. Do hunt the IAT sensor, it should be on the intake somewhere. Unscrew that and see how it looks, those aren't good for 185k miles. A bad electrical connection there can really mess up the tune, check those wires good.
 






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