Need help with head unit Wiring

[Silent00]

I just bought a Kenwood KDC-X994 head unit to replace my old Sony and im a little lost on the wiring and google is not helping

Here is my wiring adapter:

Now i have most of the wiring figured out red>red, black>black, yellow>yellow ect all the common sense stuff but there are 7 wires left to which i have no idea what to do with or what they are for and which of them or the others is the remote wire to amp:

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Silent00]

Ok thanks to my camera i realized that on the wiring adapter that the other two wires are actually purple just really faded so now i know what those two are for but i still am not sure which to use for the remote wire.

 

[Silent00]

anyone? do i hook the remote wire to the P. Cont??? i guess trial and error.

 

[aaronajb1981]

color for color. if the factory harness doesnt have it you dont need it.

 

[ParadoxRacing]

The purple wires are your passenger rear speaker wires, and should go to the purple wires in the aftermarket harness. color for collor ie, purple to purple, purple/black to purple/black. You do not need the rest of the wires in an Explorer unless you: a) have aftermarket amps. b) did not bypass the factory amp in a JBL system (you can tell by looking in the back, do you have a sub in the right quarter panel?) c) have an aftermarket power antenna. The wires do the following:

Blue - power antenna (sends a 12v signal when the radio tuner is on to raise antenna)

Blue/White - Power amp (sends 12v when head unit is turned on to turn on amplifiers)

Tan - Mute (mutes radio when ground is applied to it)

Blue/Yellow - Steering wheel remote input (usually this is a programmable input used to make steering wheel radio controls work with the aftermarket headunit) (I don't think 2000 had steering wheel controls)

Orange/White - Dimmer input (dims display on head unit when 12v is applied) (If I remember correctly, there is no 12v dimmer wire in the factory harness, just one that is variable voltage based on the level of the dash light rheostat. That would be the orance wire in your adapter harness. Do not hook these together, as it will not work properly, and you risk burning out the dimmer circuit on your radio. You can hook the orange/white wire up to the parking light circuit if you must have the dimming feature, but I would leave that for someone that is properly trained)



TL/DR

You probably don't need to hook any of these wires up.

 

[Silent00]

Orange/White - Dimmer input (dims display on head unit when 12v is applied) (If I remember correctly, there is no 12v dimmer wire in the factory harness, just one that is variable voltage based on the level of the dash light rheostat. That would be the orance wire in your adapter harness. Do not hook these together, as it will not work properly, and you risk burning out the dimmer circuit on your radio. You can hook the orange/white wire up to the parking light circuit if you must have the dimming feature, but I would leave that for someone that is properly trained)



TL/DR

You probably don't need to hook any of these wires up.

Whoops, I hooked the orange/white harness wire up to the solid orange wire and everything has been working fine so far for the past few days, I just bought a new amp for my speakers and am running new wire so im going to disconnect the speaker wires and and i will remove the orange wire.

 

[ParadoxRacing]

Post deleted (Double post)

 

[ParadoxRacing]

It will work as long as your dash lights are turned up high enough, but if you dim you dash lights at all, you start reducing the voltage to that wire. The orange/white wire is designed to have an all or nothing signal, not a somewhere in-between. Some head units are fine forever hooked up like this, others are not so lucky. It just depends on how much voltage fluctuation tolerance was built into the circuit. Pretty much anything electrical in most cars can function anywhere between 10ish and 14 volts, but that dimmer wire will take the voltage into the single digits, where things can get dicey. Just to be safe, I would disconnect it.

BTW, if you do have the JBL system, even if it is working, bypassing those amps is the way to go. It will generally sound better and lessen the chances for problems down the road.

 

[Silent00]

yea im gonna un hook it i dont want to dim the head unit i assumed it turned on the display when i turned my key but obviously not.. thanks for the reply where were you friday i could of saved $10 in fuses lol