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Need help with my V8 swap

The timing cover came this morning... YEAH... so we went worked on getting the motor back together, that went quick, and NOW THE MOTOR IS IN... I have my V8 finally... pics coming as quick as they can... Still have a lot to get done.. but it's so nice to see that intake sitting on top in the engine capartment... :D
 



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Omg>> i love it already

First to start off with the goods...
I got a intake spacer...
And the electric fan... The only bad is that when I went to test fit it after the motor was in it wouldn't clear the waterpump, idler, and hermonic balance... so it's going to lose some extra pounds and get skiny to fit in there.
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I had to pickup some new plugs... so I went standard/platinum...
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Here's some teaser pics... some final assembly before install

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Ohh.. don't mind the finger... my younger brother didn't know until I showed him the photo... So I HAD to post it... hahahah
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So here's the idea we came up with to be able to get the motor back in, drop the front end down even lower with the spindles just resting on deck lumber... it worked though.
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The motor had to be lifted to as far as the hoist would allow to clear the fenders....
27yubdu.jpg


2lxcwgg.jpg


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Then we had to ever so slowly let it down...
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With the accessorie brackets on we had about an inch front and back to work with.
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Then we ran into a problem... we had left the factory V6 mounts on the frame... b/c I thought it would bolt right up, well it didn't... The passenger side bolted right up... the driver's side did not... So since to be able to pull those brackets off we would've had to drop the front axle.. we did the next best thing... we took the V6 motor mount and traced the hole pattern to the V8 mount... Drilled it out.. and it dropped right on.

Without the intake the motor is SO far down there... plus the fact I have a BL... it made it much easier to get to all the exhaust manifold bolts... and the engine mount bolts.
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Here's the BEST part... the finally resting place with the intake on...

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:D:D:thumbsup::D:D

Sorry about the blurry pictures.... it was 11:30 by time I locked up the barn and the Blackberry takes good pics... but sometimes they come out pretty blurry.
 






looks good tyler be sure to post sound clip
 






Will do...
 






This thread is worthless without a sound clip. lol

Great work so far.
 






Awesome work! Sorry I couldn't make it over tonight, I just now got home from my 2nd shift... :(
 






That's fine... thought I would get more done today...
Here's a couple better engine shots:

1y08ic.jpg


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but we ran into some snags.. OF COARSE...
The transfer case is too large... so I'm just going to put the AWD transfer case in... The manual transfer case wasn't to long.. It did barely clear the gas tank/skidplate ...We could get it on and in place.. it was the front output yoke... it was too close to the framerail/ couldn't make it past the trans crossmember.. Well atleast I won't have to deal with custom driveshafts...
Here's the comparison:
2hhf0ir.jpg


Another problem was I can't turn the motor over to get the torque converter bolted up.. so the TQ converter is probably jammed... so I'm going to have to dink with that tomorrow..
The exhaust manifolds made it on today... along with more hooking up of wires... alternator made it on.

To Do List:
1. All accesories back on.. A/C pump, Power Steering Pump, Water Pump, Tensioner.
2. Ignition all hooked up.
3. T-case bolted up, therefore trans. crossmember goes back on
4. Trans. lines hook up.
5. Starter bolted up and hooked up.
6. Driveshafts bolted up.
7. Radiator/fan issue solved so ready to bolt up.
8. Coolant lines and A/c hoses
9. Skidplate installed
10. All Fluids fillled
11. Bumper and hood reinstalled.

That pretty much sums the rest up... I think.. will find out tomorrow.
 






I am curious how you plan to avoid a custom rear driveshaft? My 4x4 V6 shaft t-case yoke did not bolt up to the AWD V8 t-case. The V8 driveshaft was also a little beefier than the OHV shaft I had.
 






I am curious how you plan to avoid a custom rear driveshaft? My 4x4 V6 shaft t-case yoke did not bolt up to the AWD V8 t-case. The V8 driveshaft was also a little beefier than the OHV shaft I had.
A driveshaft retube shouldn't be a problem. But I think the biggest issue is going to be transfer-case clearance - which includes fitting it between the rails and also clearing the gas tank.
 






No problems so far...
But I think the biggest issue is going to be transfer-case clearance - which includes fitting it between the rails and also clearing the gas tank.
..> I'm not able to use the manual t-case anymore.. we fitted it up and it wouldn't fit. It cleared the gas tank, but it would hit the framerail and the driveshaft would hit the crossmember.

We have the front yoke of the V8 driveshaft... so we're going to swap the larger yoke at the u-joint... front driveshaft are the same...I believe..

Just have to do small stuff and it'll be running and driving...
 






Ok, I guess that is an option as they all use the same u-joints. I got the 4 door v8 shaft shortened because it has a higher spline count on the slip yoke as well. It just seemed a little beefier. I don't remember if the tube diameter of the shaft was any different or not.

As far as I know the V6 front and V8 fronts are different lengths, only by about an inch. The boot was torn on my V8 front shaft so I had a driveline shop shorten my V6 front shaft to V8 length as the cheapest way at the time to get a working front driveshaft.
 






Ok, thanks for that info 99sportx...

Here's my problem, everything is in, ready to go.. it doesn't crank over with the key..?? And there's no spark to the plugs... we did some more digging, there's no power to the coils, What could cause this..?? WE are rechecking everything as I type... I will jump back on in a little while... got to get back out and help out...
 






To Do List:
1. All accesories back on.. A/C pump, Power Steering Pump, Water Pump, Tensioner. DONE
2. Ignition all hooked up. DONE w/problems
3. T-case bolted up, therefore trans. crossmember goes back on DONE but leak from t-case
4. Trans. lines hook up. DONE
5. Starter bolted up and hooked up. DONE
6. Driveshafts bolted up. DONE atleast the rear one.. haven't tried the front one
7. Radiator/fan issue solved so ready to bolt up.ALMOST DONE
8. Coolant lines and A/c hoses COOLANT DONE.. A/c going without for the time being
9. Skidplate installed DONE
10. All Fluids fillled DONE
11. Bumper and hood reinstalled. INCOMPLETE
 






Ignition Coil power

Here's my problem, everything is in, ready to go.. it doesn't crank over with the key..?? And there's no spark to the plugs... we did some more digging, there's no power to the coils, What could cause this..?? ...

I believe power to the ignition coils (red/light green wire) comes from Fuse 19 (25 amps) in the interior fuse panel. It should be battery voltage in start or run. The PCM controls when the coils fire but the coils should have power no matter what the PCM does.

Fuse 19 gets power from the ignition switch via a light green/purple wire.

Power to the ignition switch comes (via yellow wire) from Fuse 1 (60 amps) in the power distribution box.
 






OK, THANKS A TON.. we'll go check and see what we get...
 






I don't know what to tell you other than to check all fuses and connectors as well as grounds.

The starter circuit itself is pretty simple so getting it to crank shouldn't take a whole lot of effort. Check for power to the trigger wire on the starter when the key is in start as well as the main power cables. I was surprised how finicky the main battery cables were. I had an intermittent starter issue and the problem was the main positive cable at the starter. I cleaned the contacts with sandpaper, coated in dielectric grease and haven't had a problem since.
 






The trigger wire to the starter relay is not getting power...but the computer is getting power though.....so its not sending power to the starter selnoid....still no spark
 






The starter circuit does not use the pcm. It consists of the key switch, starter relay, and the starter solenoid and likely some fuses in there as well. If you aren't getting it to crank, then something is off in that circuit.

I would try to find a wiring diagram and start from there. It makes things so much easier. I don't have one for a 97.
 






We have the Haynes book, so we're looking right now.. to see if we see anything..
Here's what we ended with tonight...

j6mk4n.jpg
 



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I've got a full set of '97 Ford Manuals if that will help... I only work until 4:00 tomorrow so I can run them out after work if you haven't figured it out by then...
 






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