Need Help

[sleddude_700]

I have a 91 explorer with a 5.5in superlift with 35's. When I drive down the road, (dpending on the road) my explorer will sway back and forth. I replaced the center-link cause it had a bad ball joint and that fixed the problem a little but it still exists. Need to know if anyone has a suggestion as to what could be wrong, and what i need to do to fix said problem. Thanks everyone.

 

[GoneExploring]

check your sway bar end links and bushings

 

[sleddude_700]

Thanks...i did notice that they looked a little worn out.

 

[GoneExploring]

if it has the stock end links they tend to break pretty easily but the replacements are cheap and pretty easy to do hope this helps ya out

 

[4x4junkie]

I replaced the center-link cause it had a bad ball joint and that fixed the problem a little but it still exists.

Are you running the Superrunner steering kit on it?

 

[mbelcher0014]

I have a 91 explorer with a 5.5in superlift with 35's. When I drive down the road, (dpending on the road) my explorer will sway back and forth. I replaced the center-link cause it had a bad ball joint and that fixed the problem a little but it still exists. Need to know if anyone has a suggestion as to what could be wrong, and what i need to do to fix said problem. Thanks everyone.

mine does that too.. i have yet to figure it out...

 

[4x4junkie]

mine does that too.. i have yet to figure it out...

I can almost guarantee you I know exactly what the problem is, but need to know whether you're running the Superrunner steering kit or a simple drop pitman arm, as the fix is a little different for each. (a hint: it's not shocks, loose tierods or swaybar links, improper caster angle or the simple fact alone that the truck is up taller or that it's on bigger tires. Steering stabilizers will be of little use as well).

 

[sleddude_700]

I am running a the drop pitman arm with a centerlink that the tie rods and steering stabilizer all hook up too

 

[turboranger91]

mine did the same thing. i figured out real quick how to snap it back into shape with a quick slight jerk of the wheel.

 

[4x4junkie]

I am running a the drop pitman arm with a centerlink that the tie rods and steering stabilizer all hook up too

You say "centerlink", that leads me to think you're running the Superlift steering kit, no?

Is either one of these steering link setups like yours? If so, which one? (click for bigger)

#1

#2

Whichever case, I"ll bet $$$ this is where your problem is, your tierods are at steep angles with your axle beams, and you're experiencing what's called "bump steer" due to the tierods being out of phase with the suspension when you drive over any unevenness in the road. You need to either get a larger drop pitman arm for your steering, or you need to modify (lower) the centerlink of your Superrunner kit (if that's what you have) in order to get rid of that swaying feeling (and no, you definitely aren't the first one that's had to deal with this, not at all ).

 

[mbelcher0014]

I can almost guarantee you I know exactly what the problem is, but need to know whether you're running the Superrunner steering kit or a simple drop pitman arm, as the fix is a little different for each. (a hint: it's not shocks, loose tierods or swaybar links, improper caster angle or the simple fact alone that the truck is up taller or that it's on bigger tires. Steering stabilizers will be of little use as well).

mine just has a normal rough country 4in suspension lift... im almost certain its running a stock or near stock pitman arm... actually now that you bring it up it does make senses to have a drop arm... any one know where i can get one and how much of a drop do i need?

 

[sleddude_700]

I am running the superlift steering kit with the center link and a drop pitman arm (it looks like photo #2). Thanks 4x4junkie for the great tech tips and solutions to my problems. It gives me a place to start.

 

[4x4junkie]

Sorry for the delay, I was away for the weekend.

Here's what will be needed with the Superlift steering:

If you look closely at pic#2 I posted, notice that the center block that the tierods are mounted onto has been lowered down some, this is what's going to be needed on yours. You'll need a grinder, a good 220V welder (and of course know how to use it), and a piece of ¾" thick steel approx 2-3" wide.

Grind out the welds holding the tierod mounting block to the centerlink.
Weld your ¾" strip of metal to the tierod block so that it will be spaced downward.
Weld this assembly back onto your centerlink, paying close attention to the angle it's at so that it will drop straight down when it's mounted on your truck.

Here's a pic I took while doing this mod myself:

It wouldn't be a bad idea to beef up your idler arm assembly and bracket as well, as the above mod does increase the leverage on it to some extent.

See here:

If you don't have a 220V welder, then you may want to see if you can find a shop in your area to do this for you. I'm thinking it shouldn't take more than a hour or so labor at the most (it took me about 1½ hours when I did this at home in my garage).

Take a look at this link.
This should explain in good detail why the heck all this is necessary, as for some reason it seems the lift industry doesn't have it all together when it comes to steering these things. :thumbdwn:


For the 4" Rough Country, the Skyjacker drop pitman arm #FA600 will work perfectly with that kit. This arm's true amount of drop is 4" (this is in spite of claims that the arm is intended for a 6-8" lift). Any other arm, regardless of claims, will only drop down 2" making for an incomplete steering correction (again, see the above link).


Hopefully that helps.

 

[jd4242]

Sorry for the delay, I was away for the weekend.

Here's what will be needed with the Superlift steering:

If you look closely at pic#2 I posted, notice that the center block that the tierods are mounted onto has been lowered down some, this is what's going to be needed on yours. You'll need a grinder, a good 220V welder (and of course know how to use it), and a piece of ¾" thick steel approx 2-3" wide.

Grind out the welds holding the tierod mounting block to the centerlink.
Weld your ¾" strip of metal to the tierod block so that it will be spaced downward.
Weld this assembly back onto your centerlink, paying close attention to the angle it's at so that it will drop straight down when it's mounted on your truck.

Here's a pic I took while doing this mod myself:

It wouldn't be a bad idea to beef up your idler arm assembly and bracket as well, as the above mod does increase the leverage on it to some extent.

See here:

If you don't have a 220V welder, then you may want to see if you can find a shop in your area to do this for you. I'm thinking it shouldn't take more than a hour or so labor at the most (it took me about 1½ hours when I did this at home in my garage).

Take a look at this link.
This should explain in good detail why the heck all this is necessary, as for some reason it seems the lift industry doesn't have it all together when it comes to steering these things. :thumbdwn:


For the 4" Rough Country, the Skyjacker drop pitman arm #FA600 will work perfectly with that kit. This arm's true amount of drop is 4" (this is in spite of claims that the arm is intended for a 6-8" lift). Any other arm, regardless of claims, will only drop down 2" making for an incomplete steering correction (again, see the above link).


Hopefully that helps.

wooo that was a good readi have heard of many people having binding problems with the fa 600 on the 4" lift,but i think they just didnt have everything aligned right but i have the fa400 for sale if anyone needs it

 

[RangerX]

4x4junkie, you are a TTB guru!

 

[4x4junkie]

Well, I appreciate the compliment (thanks ) but I'm not sure I'd call myself a "guru"... To me it seems most of this should be pretty common knowledge.
Most people appear to be very well aware that on a straight axle, your draglink and trackbar are supposed to be parallel with each other (and placed at least somewhat close to horizontal)... What is it that's different about having both your tierods parallel with your axle beams?

I guess there's just something about it I don't see, because either way it's all the same **** to me, yet all too often this aspect is never considered on the TTB side of things (especially within the lift industry, which is largely responsible for all the issues at hand here).

wooo that was a good readi have heard of many people having binding problems with the fa 600 on the 4" lift,but i think they just didnt have everything aligned right but i have the fa400 for sale if anyone needs it

I've heard one report myself of someone having something binding with the FA600 arm. Do you know what part (or where it) exactly was binding? (a pic maybe?). I never got to determine if it might've been due to some structural problem on the truck somewhere (bent steering linkage, bracket, radius arm or ?)