Need suspension help and suggestions

[irishpilot]

Hello,

I've had my explorer for about 2 years and since I got it the suspension is much noisier and bouncy.

when I come to a complete stop from 35mph's or so, I here a pretty loud *clunk* and I feel the metal to metal contact in the cab. I work at a dealership and had my friends in the Lube bay check it out because I assumed that it was a motor mount. He said mounts looked ok but its probaly just the bushing are worn.

I know for a fact the Shocks are original and need replaced. What bushing should I be looking for? I would like to get it driving as smooth as possible again. I did a little searching someone said that doing the Radius arm bushing is a PITA but it restored "the new car feeling" thats what I want I want to get this in good condition and avoid another car payment.

BTW, its a 91 or 92 cant remember 4 dr 5spd with 4x4

 

[Mud Bug 94]

bounce = blown shocks....clunk = radius arm bushings...(R/A bushings)

 

[irishpilot]

thanks

Is their anything else I should be doing while I do the RA bushings?

would that be the time to do my wheel bearings? I've never done them before

 

[jtison]

Should you do wheel bearings now?

Eh. If they haven't been inspected or packed in at least the last 60-70,000 miles, I'd go ahead and do them, too, just for that nice warm feeling. But then again, I do all my own work.

Your brake calipers and rotors have to be pulled to get at the inner wheel bearings, so it's more appropriate to do the bearing job at the same time as a brake job. If you're going to have a mechanic do it, expect to pay for the labor in disassembly/reassembly of the brake rotor/caliper PLUS the labor involved in inspecting & repacking the bearings.

My experience is that wheel bearings on the Explorers (as long as they were installed properly) don't need a lot of attention, though. I've pulled mine twice, and the only time I ever needed to replace them was when I had a brake rotor seriously out of round.

HTH,
--Jim---

 

[irishpilot]

thanks Jtison

 

[Mud Bug 94]

mine as well check brakes while ur there..and maybe fuel filters?....while ur under there check the u-joints...

 

[kerstingm]

Hello,

I've had my explorer for about 2 years and since I got it the suspension is much noisier and bouncy.

when I come to a complete stop from 35mph's or so, I here a pretty loud *clunk* and I feel the metal to metal contact in the cab. I work at a dealership and had my friends in the Lube bay check it out because I assumed that it was a motor mount. He said mounts looked ok but its probaly just the bushing are worn.

I know for a fact the Shocks are original and need replaced. What bushing should I be looking for? I would like to get it driving as smooth as possible again. I did a little searching someone said that doing the Radius arm bushing is a PITA but it restored "the new car feeling" thats what I want I want to get this in good condition and avoid another car payment.

BTW, its a 91 or 92 cant remember 4 dr 5spd with 4x4

I'm having the same problem. Mine is only 2 WD but what you're describing
is the same. Let me know what you find I'll do the same. I have to jack it
up today to drain the radiator and change the bottom hose, so I figured
this would be the best time to start prying and checking the motor mounts.

 

[jtison]

Probably not motor mounts

Perhaps irishpilot would jump back in here and confirm what he found; but I think you're looking at radius arm bushings. If you hear a metal-to-metal noise, you'll probably need to replace the brackets onto which the RABs mount, too. They're riveted onto the frame, but they should come off anyway, so you might as well replace them if you see any signs of wear.

Like irishpilot noted, you've got most of the front suspension apart when you do the RABs, so think of stuff like shocks, springs, and brakes while you're in there.

There are tons of threads in this forum about how to replace the RABs (search is your friend). You'll need basic machinist's skills (hard rivets to drill/cut off) and I'd set aside all day to do it.

I don't think I've ever heard of a motor mount breaking on the 1st gen Exploders. Possible? Sure. Likely? No -- check those RABs first ... they're a weak spot in engineering.

 

[kerstingm]

The weird thing is the clunking noise that I hear seems to move. One time it sounds like it's on the driver's side then another time it might sound like the pass. side or in the center
of the truck. I know it's just matter of getting under there and taking a look.

 

[jtison]

Suspension stress is directional

The goal of a radius arm suspension design is to use those arms to keep the axle perpendicular to the drive train, no matter where the non-straight-and-level force is coming from -- bumps, potholes, curbs, or even simple turns. If both RABs are worn, you could be hearing the clunk from either side, depending on which way the momentary force is pushing on your suspension.

The sad part is that you won't be able to inspect the condition of either RAB until you take them apart, which means you have to do the ugly teardown to find out. The part that deteriorates is the inner "stem of the mushroom", which you can't see from the outside. If you hear a metal-on-metal squeak along with the clunk (that's the radius arm stud grinding into the bracket aperture!), you know it's the RAB, no questions. If you're gonna try a partial teardown, check the RH (passenger) side first; but that's enough work to where I'd just do the replacement anyways.

Just "taking a look" may not reveal that anything's wrong. Your Ford dealer might even own up to the fact that the RABs wear out with age, and that your symptoms match RAB failure. Read all the threads on this subject here ... you aren't alone.

Think of it this way: the RAB is a soft rubber part that takes a lot of static pressure & push-pull/up-down stress (there's a 130 foot-lbs torque spec on the nut for a reason). It gets worse when you observe that the RH bushing is so close to a 400+ F degree heat source (catalytic converter) -- not one of Ford's "better ideas"

Mine died right around 125 K miles, and I rode on them for another 5,000 before I woke up and did the work. When I pulled mine apart, the LH side was still decent (but a little worn) -- the RH bushing was completely chewed up on the inside -- but I changed them both out at the same time. I was taught to rarely -- if ever -- do something to one side of the front suspension that you don't do to the other.

I used the Moog (blue) thermoplastic bushings to replace the OEM rubber; forget that weenie "heat shield" (more like a heat retainer) that just bakes along with the RH RAB. I'm very happy with them, 25 K miles later, even though they're a little stiff. I don't have to mention that the clunks and squeaks are gone, do I?

 

[kerstingm]

I have a 126,000 on mine so the millage is right there. I haven't done much in the suspension side of work. How long did it take to do it and do I need any special tools for tear down and assembly? One
other question is drifting side to side a another symptom or could that be the shocks? If I do this
my self I'll probably go ahead an replace them anyway.

 

[jtison]

Great thread

... right here http://home.att.net/~metjt/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html Pictures rock

Non-pictorial here http://www.explorerforum.com/Singleton/web/pages/rab.html

Getting the rivets out took me 4 hours, both sides, but that was before I learned how to use an oxyacetylene torch (I'm convinced I could do all the rivets today in a matter of minutes by blowing the heads off) -- I'm not the most talented machinist in the world, and yeah, I drilled them out, like an idiot.

Getting the RA nuts off was pretty easy (use either a steel cheater pipe or a 2-foot breaker bar), and getting the brackets out was a freebie from there. If I recall correctly, you'll need a 23 mm socket to remove and tighten the RA nuts. I suggest buying new nuts just for the hell of it ... they're cheap.

Reassembly took about 3 hours, both sides. The hardest part was getting the new brackets to line up with the frame holes for the new Grade 8 bolts. I suggest a set of high-quality punches: you'll need a medium-thick drift punch to help you line those holes up.

If you have a hoist to do this on, you can save yourself all kinds of time ... I had a hell of a time getting enough leverage on those RA nuts from the floor.

Parts list:
- 2 brand new RA bushings. I like the Moog thermoplastics.
- 2 brand new RA nuts.
- 2 brand new RA brackets if you suspect either is messed up.
- 1 tube blue Loctite
- Grade 8 bolts, lockwashers & nuts (see Singleton for sizes)
Tools list:
- 2' breaker bar
- 23 mm socket
- Various box & open end wrenches
- Set of punches
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (get 130 foot-lbs on those RA nuts!)
- Drill & [many] carbide bits, dremel, air hammer, angle grinder, or oxy torch for removing the rivets (read Singleton). Maybe more than one of the above

I think that's about it. Good luck.

 

[kerstingm]

Thanks for all of the info

 

[kerstingm]

Good news I found my "clunk" My connecting rods for my front sway bar are bad. Drivers side is broke and passenger side worn.
Does anybody have a link to where I can get some after market
suspension parts?

Replaced links SUV rides like new (almost)
just want to thank everybody for the help

 

[kerstingm]

Bad day I finally got the the truck running and driving great and wrapped it around another truck. his truck was hardly scratched his, my entire passanger side is toast. We'll find out today want the body shop says.

 

[gsmaclean]

Getting the rivets out took me 4 hours, both sides, but that was before I learned how to use an oxyacetylene torch (I'm convinced I could do all the rivets today in a matter of minutes by blowing the heads off) -- I'm not the most talented machinist in the world, and yeah, I drilled them out, like an idiot.

Never mind drilling, torches, or any of that nonsense. I knocked the heads off the rivets with an air chisel, then put a punch in the air chisel and knocked the rest of the rivet through. Took about one minute for each rivet. Air chisels can be had for about $10 from Harbor Freight.

 

[kerstingm]

Need to wait for the insur. co. but I did $4,600 worth of damage to a truck
worth 3 to 4. I think I totaled it. Still drives fine though.