Need to pull halfshafts in driveway ASAP

[ostlandr]

Hello,

I blew a CV joint on my 98 Ex last night- luckily on slow speed surface streets. Was fine on the highway coiming home luckily but now sounds like a rock crusher on the driver's side. Didn't think I'd make it to the driveway.

I need some help finding detailed instructions on how to pull the shafts- I can live with 2wd until I can afford repairs. Can it be done without disassembling the entire front end?

I have searched this site and the web for hours- no luck. I apoligise for the request, but right now I can't even afford the repair manual, let alone the dealer repair bill.

I just need to get the broken halfshaft (and the other one as well) disconnected and out so I can get to work without the damaged CV exploding at 70 mph and maybe taking out a tire.

Or am I wrong? Can I just keep driving it? I can get to work on 30 mph roads if I leave early enough. What's the worst case if I just keep driving on a bad half shaft until I can afford repairs?

Any help would be appreciated- I already had to cancel a doctor's appointment for my wife today. Need to have the Ex back on the road by Monday morning for work. (FYI my backup vehicle is down pending repair funds also.)

 

[GJarrett]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53863


Note: when Jefe mentions this:

4) mark alignment cams (on upper A arm bolts) with current rotation so that you don’t screw up your alignment when reinstalled; remove upper A arm bolts (note: in any book it will say to separate the upper A arm from the spindle but I could never get this joint apart on either side the first time I did this);

you don't have to do that; you can indeed separate the upper A arm from the spindle - there's a single bolt that holds the upper ball joint in place in the spindle, remove that and the spindle can be disconnected from the upper A arm.

 

[BlownPony306]

I did this in my garage in an evening. It was real easy. Hardest part was getting the a-arm to seperate from the spindle. I ended up just shooting it with some nut buster stuff several times and then tapping it out with hammer. Don't even bother with the splittler deals as they are a complete waste of your time. Other then that you just unhook your caliper assembly from the spindle. Remove the brake rotor(this can be hard if they are the original rotors). And then you can unbolt the bearing reatainer. Once you unbolt that you can slide the CV out. I found that I was able to remove and install the half shaft without removing any of the lower ball joints or anything by cranking the wheel all the way one way or the other.

 

[ostlandr]

Thanks!

Thanks. I thought that I could run without the half-shafts, but looks like not.
Gonna have to borrow some $$ somewhere and get the half-shaft. Should be able to change it out myself now. I really appreciate the help.
Next step is to do the "brown wire" mod so the A4wd isn't kicking in on dry pavement highway onramps- the boots looked good and she's never been 'offroading'- only 60k miles- so thats' probably what's been happening. I notice the newer models have a 2wd setting (sigh.)

BTW I found your "Herc" posts earlier looking for info. Great stories, great truck! I was lucky enough to get given a beat '88 'zuki Samurai which serves as both weekend toy and farm tractor- needs rear brakes & a throttle cable at the moment.

 

[BlownPony306]

You can run without the front driveshaft but not the half shafts. The half shafts are cheap. Check Autozone. They were like 80 bucks a piece there.