New Car, New Problem :(

[IAmTodd]

Ever since I got my new Explorer the E-brake has been very hard engage and the light has yet to light up. Its not the bulb because it briefly lights up when its started and has come on tonite. Speaking of tonite, that brings me to my next problem. Most likely related. I had it sitting in the driveway idleing in park with the e-brake set. Ok, finish moving the other cars around, yada yada yada, get in mine put it in reverse, release the e-brake and viola! It won't backup. Give it a little more gas and it moves making noises like the e-brake is stuck. O great I say to myself, not again (happened when I got my last Explorer). So I creep up the driveway with my door open and I start to hear a tiny cracking noise. I promptly throw it in park, get out and look, see nothing, try to back up again, being very careful and for the brief moment I was doing so it looked like my back wheel was pivioting.

The weird thing is it will only do this in reverse, it moves fine moving forward. So right now its in the driveway because my Dad's sleeping and I have no idea whats wrong/what to do. I hope its nothing serious. If its something like e-brake pads, I'll replace them myself, if its like last time and the whole assembly has to be replaced, them screw it, its going back to be taken care of.

Good news is that my oil leak has yet to return.

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

cool, you got the 5.0 kick @ss

 

[Critical_Level2]

I know someone who had that same type of problem only it was a navigator, but same type of rear e-brake. The e-brake shoes over expanded and started grinding into the rotor. they had to replace the e-brake shoes, rear rotors and all the hardware. If you got a warranty on the truck, by all means take it back, because that should have been checked out before they sold it.

 

[Garth]

About the E-brake light, you only have o clean the switch on the top of the brake lever.

I never use my e-brake because I have notice a similer situation with mine. It dont seem to release properly. I also notice that the brake line seem to have chafed against the frame and that may be the problem (right side).

 

[Mbrooks420]

The e brake setup in the Exlporer's is piss poor. Salt and road grime gets in there and rusts the plate that the actuator rides in. The whole rear brake assembly needs to be removed, the rust needs to come off and it needs greased up. The problem will likely return if you don't use it for a few weeks. Both Ex's I had did this. The fist one I just pulled all of the e brake components, this one I just let stick. I'll never use it anyways, because it will likely stick on, and I will ruin the rotors.

 

[IAmTodd]

Can I fix this by removing the rotor and cleaning it up and greasing it up?

 

[IAmTodd]

And this same exact thing happened to my old one and the dealer ended up having to replace the carrier in the pumpkin.

 

[thewishkah]

It MIGHT not be that bad I just hd this problem with my 94 x and i had to replace rear shoes cause they grinded down and my E-Brake cables not as expensive as replacing everything, as for the light check over by the Ebrake pedal see If the plastic piece the sensor is mounted with is broken off cause that the problem with mine the piece he e-brake hits to turn the light on cracked off and its just kinda hanging around so maybe this is your problem also

 

[Mbrooks420]

Your 94 has rear drum brakes doesn't it? The 95+ have rotors. Get under the truck and give the cables themselves a pull. If they are free in the sheath I'd hit them with a shot of wd-40 and pull the rotors. There is a slot where the e brake actuator goes through. It goes from the cable end, into the rotor. This and the slot itself becomes rusty. Usually the actuator isn't rusted into place, it just gets hung up. You need to clean up this rust, move the actuator and clean it up. Then use a good multi temp gease. A marine grease may be a good idea due to the road salt, and poor conditions.

 

[IAmTodd]

Ok, it is the actuator that is stuck. It moves on the passanger side and not the driver. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster with no luck. What can I do to free it up. The rotor won't budge either.

 

[Billy177]

there should be an adjustment screw. loosen that take the rotor off and grease everything up

 

[IAmTodd]

there should be an adjustment screw. loosen that take the rotor off and grease everything up

Where's this adjustment screw located?

 

[Mbrooks420]

There is a plug that goes into the back of the dust sheild. It's rubber, and oblong.

 

[IAmTodd]

Found it, got the rotor off with Adam's help. Got the pads off, they fell apart, got new ones, went to put it back together and found out its actually the cable to the drivers side brake is siezed up. So I'm not sure what to do. We're gonna put it back together in a little bit and just leave that side disconnected so I can still drive it. And then worry about the cable at a later date. So I guess thats good news, and I'm going to get new pads on it now.

 

[X24]

How do you replace the ebrake shoes? Mine were all dried and cracked when I replaced my rotors and the shoes basically fell off when I pulled the rotor off. Just by looking at it, it looked like the axle shaft would have to come out to replace them. Anyone know? The dealer wants me to pay $300 for them to fix it so they can brake something else and get more money.

 

[IAmTodd]

You don't have to pull the axle. For some reason they pulled it when they replaced the shoes on my Sport. There are 3 springs that hold it on, get those off, they pull right off.

I've been soaking the cable in WD-40 for a while now and still won't budge. I think i'm just going to leave it disconnected and drive it to school tomorrow and stop at the place to see what they're going to do about it. God does this make me mad!! :frustrate

 

[Mbrooks420]

Any used vehicles you will ever buy will have problems.

 

[IAmTodd]

I realize this, but I have to relieve my frustrations. Hell new ones now-a-days have more problems then used ones!

 

[thewishkah]

i wouldnt use wd40 i know atleasts for ball bearings it just helps the rust process along I know autozone sell rust penatrating lubercants that might help glad to hear it was only the cable (but still sorry your having trouble)

 

[IAmTodd]

I guess the can of PB Blaster would have been a better chioce then.

I've just put a band-aid over it for right now. I left the drivers side disconnected and took it for a short drive and it seems to be alrite.