New girl

[XBruno]

Hi everyone. Hope everyone's enjoying the labor day weekend.
Specs: 98 awd 5.0 v8 xlt auto
Boyfriend bought me this beast on his B-Day and I've loved having the power of the v8 my other X was only v6. Since day one I have heard and felt a rotational noise from front end not sure exactly what's going on. I have some brake drag coming from passenger front and also the previous owner removed the front drive shaft, didn't know that till parked in my moms driveway which is at an angle. Work I've done, new wheel hubassembly with bearings, bled the drakes to hopefully get rid of the drag plus new rotors, tranny fluid and filter exchange, new fuel filter, basic tune up and some body work.
Replacing the hubs did not make sound go away like I hoped the sound is constant doesn't start or stop with wheel direction or speed. I don't know that much about the drive components but learning as I go. I do all my own work and I make sure I do it right usually by having a mechanic friend of mine double check. But he's out of state and I'm tired of hearing the rumbling sound not quite metal on metal just like if you're driving over a rocky road sound. Thanks to any suggestions and have a good holiday.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Since the wheel bearings were replaced, the next step might be an issue with the transfer case or the differential. The front driveshaft was removed by the previous owner so there might be a reason why it was removed.

 

[KeenKilo]

Welcome to this forum! Since the wheel bearings were replaced, the next step might be an issue with the transfer case or the differential. The front driveshaft was removed by the previous owner so there might be a reason why it was removed.

Ditto that.

I have an 88 Blazer that has a front end noise it’s more of a rattle/pop tho. Took me forever but finally figured out it was them lock hub covers. Maybe Give it a drive with them off

 

[donalds]

Love that style rims

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome, and the front drive shaft being gone should be a big concern.

I have three 302 AWD 98's and one V6 99. One of mine came with the front drive shaft out, and obvious wear to the suspension and at least one hub. The bottom line was the truck had been driven like that for years, and the front diff, pinion seal, leaked enough it was too low. I replaced the front suspension and hubs etc, and added gear oil to the almost empty front diff.

I suggest you very soon add gear oil with a hand pump to the front diff(full from dry is maybe a quart or a hair more(you don't need more than a quart to top it off)). The fill plug is on the left side and takes a 3/8" drive ratchet end. If it doesn't take more than say five ounces before it runs out(full), then the differential is likely okay. If it takes a lot of gear oil to fill it, the bearings and gears may be hurt and who knows how long they would last.

The CV axles can make lots of noise when the joints start to get bad, the hubs are more likely if the drive shaft is okay(or out). That drive shaft has a CV joint, so hopefully the prior owner pulled it due to that joint. That joint is about an $85 part, the diff, is a whole lot more.

Keep identical diameter tires on an AWD always, never swap 1-3 new tires on, or one different spare etc. Keep them the same, or have it towed until they can be. Repairing the AWD transfer case or the front diff, is a massive job and cost, versus new tires.

 

[XBruno]

Welcome, and the front drive shaft being gone should be a big concern.

I have three 302 AWD 98's and one V6 99. One of mine came with the front drive shaft out, and obvious wear to the suspension and at least one hub. The bottom line was the truck had been driven like that for years, and the front diff, pinion seal, leaked enough it was too low. I replaced the front suspension and hubs etc, and added gear oil to the almost empty front diff.

I suggest you very soon add gear oil with a hand pump to the front diff(full from dry is maybe a quart or a hair more(you don't need more than a quart to top it off)). The fill plug is on the left side and takes a 3/8" drive ratchet end. If it doesn't take more than say five ounces before it runs out(full), then the differential is likely okay. If it takes a lot of gear oil to fill it, the bearings and gears may be hurt and who knows how long they would last.

The CV axles can make lots of noise when the joints start to get bad, the hubs are more likely if the drive shaft is okay(or out). That drive shaft has a CV joint, so hopefully the prior owner pulled it due to that joint. That joint is about an $85 part, the diff, is a whole lot more.

Keep identical diameter tires on an AWD always, never swap 1-3 new tires on, or one different spare etc. Keep them the same, or have it towed until they can be. Repairing the AWD transfer case or the front diff, is a massive job and cost, versus new tires.

Thanks for the input. I did have to add gear oil to the diff and tranny fluid and oil all when I got the truck it does have a slight leak in diff so I'll check that again today see how much oil it needs. And all 4 tiers are the same and tread depth is 4/32 on front and 5/32 on rear. Just rotated and balanced a month ago. I do have another question as far as the parking brake can that be adjust or tightened on the 98 AWD? Thanks again for everyone's knowledgeable input.

 

[C420sailor]

Yes, parking brake can be adjusted. There are some great how-to videos on YouTube...they do a much better job explaining than I can. It’s a simple job.

 

[CDW6212R]

When you rotate the tires for an AWD, the goal is to have the same front versus rear tire "total diameter." So if two tires are slightly smaller than the other two, two pairs about identical, don't pair those front and back. Place one of each pair on each end, one small and one larger on the front, and the same deal in the back. The AWD doesn't care about anything except making each drive shaft run the identical speed.

For the parking brake, the best way to adjust it is with the rotors removed one at a time. Spend quite a bit of time putting on a rotor after adjusting that parking brake adjuster/wheel, tighter. If the rotor easily goes on and comes off, it is not adjusted tight enough. You need the parking brake pads and rotors to be smooth(fit well together), spin the axle a little and try the rotor again. Lubricate the adjuster parts, and the cables if you think of it.

The key is to have the rotor somewhat difficult to put on over those pads, and have some drag of the pads with the rotor on. If the rotor spins easily, the parking brake won't hold well on level ground. People will tell you it's self adjusting, I have not found that to be true with any of my four 2nd gen trucks over about 295k miles. But the last several times I have adjusted the parking brakes of my three driveable 98/99's, they hold fairly well.

Worn parking brake pads will not work well, and corroded parking brake cables will also hinder performance. Use the parking brake once in a while at least, don't avoid using them, less use will worsen how well they do work.