New Owner from Kent

[selkent1]

Ok Then! How Do You Know?

Reason im asking is that i only have limited history on my ex. I don't seem to have any rattle when going through the revs, only on cold started and upon idling, although upon idle it gets quieter.

So im thinking that given its only something i have upon idle, then it could just be a case of replacing the tensioners! Or as a matter of being safe, should i replace both the tensioners and the guides. And am i right in thinking that to replace the rear guide, the engine has to come out?

 

[selkent1]

Bump!

 

[janolsson]

Rear chain snapped on me as I was shutting the engine off so at minimal rpm and;

exhaust valve not seating

The bent valve on the left next to a straight valve

the dent it left on top of the piston.

As for the rear guides, yes you need access to the back of the engine to remove the flexplate to get access to the cap that covers the end of the jackshaft that has the sprocket for the rear cassette on it. Any thought of just sliding the new guide in are dashed because the guide fixing bolt is also covered by the bell housing of the tranny.
Now I have done this job with the engine out on a stand and with the engine still in the car but the transmission dropped. in an equipped workshop I would opt for the tranny out method as this would be the quickest. But, BUT unless you have done this before I would opt for the engine out so you can see what you are doing as access behind the head is limited by the fire wall. And of course you need the tool set otc 6488 which also contains an offset wrench for the rear cam sprocket.

As you rattle is only start up from cold I would just do the 00m12 kit and additional rear tensioner and see how you get on. If you do the lit then whilst the intake is off it is only another 10 mins to whip off the rocker covers to inpect the guides for the cam cassettes. 2000StreetRod has done a how to on inspecting the guides.

 

[selkent1]

oom12 Kit? Help!

 

[selkent1]

OK, i think i know what im looking for. Have already got both front and rear (or left and right) tensioners on order, and they look like a fairly easy out and in, type job. Haven't managed to find anyone selling the kit yet though. Whats it look like?

 

[janolsson]

That link courtesy of stenasev is the front tensioner and pencil to restrict the oil drain back from the tensioner. Notice that the new tensioner has an extra inch or so above the hex section, this is an updated design and so is what your new one should look like. If your original has never been replaced it will not have this extension on the top.

When fitting locate and screw in as much as possible by hand first as the threads are easy to cross, it going in on an angle and the head being ally.

You will need a T30 bit for the oil galley plug but be prepared for it to be stuborn. The tensioner requires a deep well 27mm socket. You may need to remove one of the temp senders to get it on.

The rear tensioner is flat like the old one and can bee access thro the wheel arch if you remove the wheel and flap.

The rest of the kit is just upper and lower manifold gaskets as these go hard with age and you have to take the upper manifold off to access the tensioner (again T30 bit and the bolts nearest the fire wall can be a git)

 

[kellen]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=487634#post487634

Have you seen MikeH usefull thread re fitting the OOM 12 kit? I think this is the right link. If not have a search on the forum for Mike's thread.

Cheers

Neil

 

[selkent1]

Many thanks for the info people. Massive help. My bits should turn up next week. Hopefully my rattle will be gone or minimized! Will get up some pics when i do it.

 

[selkent1]

Got my replacement tensioners through. Will get some pics of that job up next weekend. Anyone know what size speakers are fitted in the UK trucks? Am looking at replacing mine.

 

[selkent1]

Anyone?

 

[selkent1]

More questions.

Going to replace the front and rear oil tensioners this weekend and cant find the torque specs for the front (or right) one.

Looking at the one i have on it, i seem to have an older design, as the existing one seems identical to the rear one, but the replacement is much larger.

 

[selkent1]

Anyone?

 

[janolsson]

Above is a pic of the revised front tensioner. The new rear tensioner will be identical in looks to the one you remove.

Torque is 44 Nm

Make sure you screw the new tensioners in by hand as far as possible as the thread in the head can get crossed really easily.

In the pic you can see a circle to the left of the tensioner. This is the gallery plug that needs removing to insert the restrictor pencil.

As for speakers, I believe the door speakers are 6x4 but don't quote me on that best just pop off the door card and have a look.

 

[selkent1]

Above is a pic of the revised front tensioner. The new rear tensioner will be identical in looks to the one you remove.

Torque is 44 Nm

Make sure you screw the new tensioners in by hand as far as possible as the thread in the head can get crossed really easily.

In the pic you can see a circle to the left of the tensioner. This is the gallery plug that needs removing to insert the restrictor pencil.

As for speakers, I believe the door speakers are 6x4 but don't quote me on that best just pop off the door card and have a look.

Cheers for the info. I did wonder what the weird pencil thing was and what the hell i did with it (quiet at the back!).

Ive looked at some vids on youtube and some seem to have a seal or metal washer which is removed from the old units and re used on the replacement, and some don't seem to have them at all. Any thoughts?

 

[janolsson]

Cheers for the info. I did wonder what the weird pencil thing was and what the hell i did with it (quiet at the back!).

Ive looked at some vids on youtube and some seem to have a seal or metal washer which is removed from the old units and re used on the replacement, and some don't seem to have them at all. Any thoughts?

The old washer is a copper one and the new washer is a thinner steel one. My thoughts are that the newer design tensioner will be designed to a certain length and the width of the washer will be accounted for in the length so use the new washer. We are only talking a mm or so but it may be required to apply the correct tension ????
I seem to remember that the new rear one I bought didn't have the new washer and so I reused the old one.
Do you have all the tools you need?
T30 bit ( I used long shaft and short shaft with different UJ's for the rear manifold bolts)
27mm deep socket for the tensioners (you may have to remove one of the temp sensors from the t stat housing to get it onto the new tensioner so you may need deep 19mm I think)

 

[selkent1]

Yeah. got all that, especially the 27mm deep for the tensioner. Hopefully the rain might hold off and ill get it done today.

 

[selkent1]

Wonder why the replacements are a different design from the original. Am also wondering why the replacements for the rear tensioner are the same as the original but not the front.

 

[kellen]

Hi there

My understanding is that they are an uprated part. The originals were not really up to the job. Timing chain problems were always a problem with these engines.....some at quite low miles....but mine managed circa 120K before replacing front and rear along with tensioners, restrictor etc.

Cheers

Neil

 

[selkent1]

Was looking for a paint touch up kit for my truck, and upon looking there seems to be 2 ford colors that are similar greens. Whats the correct name for my shade of green peeps?

 

[kevin p]

I'm painting my front wing at the moment. My paint code is PATR. PA is the green and TR is the Grey. My green is described as ' Jewel Green Metalic'. Trouble is there are five shades of it, and none are close to matching. GRRRR. You will have to experiment.