new radiator install turns into no start, no crank???

[beavo040]

2000 Explorer Sport 4.0SOHC RWD
What started off as a simple radiator replacement, has progressed into a non-cranking headache. I can't fathom how swapping out a radiator could possibly have anything to do with the current non-starting issue.....guess it's just a coincidence. Never had any starting issues until installing the new radiator, but I guess that's just my **** luck paired with horrible timing on failing parts. After removing the old radiator, I noticed the t-stat housing was cracked. Ordered and installed new t-stat and housing, installed the new radiator and buttoned up all other remaining connections and hoses. 1st attempt to start....nothing. Realized it helps to reconnect the -neg battery terminal (F'n idiot). This time upon key turn, just a single clunk, almost a thud even.....but no crank. Immediately thought starter, but couldn't convince myself that the starter decided to just take a **** the same day the new rad. went in. Since I did remove the alternator to make working with the t-stat housing easier, I double checked to make sure I didn't leave anything obstructing any of the pullys or moving parts. All looked good. Fearing the worst, I threw a ratchet on the flywheel to see if I could turn it manually or not. Had no problem turning by hand, and no unexpected noises heard while doing so. The clunk heard when turning the key is rather loud and can even be felt. Every starter I've ever lost, just died out silently, and I've never know for one to make this type of noise. I'm sure the starter got plenty saturated with coolant from the cracked t-stat housing. While I'm sure that's not healthy for the starter and may even kill it, I wouldn't think it to be the cause of a loud clunk, followed by no cranking. I would really like to get her up and running for the holidays, but I'm simply dumbfounded. Any advise or insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[my98nnj]

When you try to start and it goes clunk, do you also lose all power?
I suspect a failing power connection, emits likely at the battery being those cables where moved.

 

[96_2dr_5spd]

see if you can start it by jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid on the drivers side fender

 

[Stick4503]

Sounds like a low voltage battery. I know you had the negative disconnected but you may still have had a drawl. I'm sure it is cold where you are so if you took any amount of time to work on this and you have a bad cell in the battery with out using it , running engine to charge it, then it could be dead. Your battery will likely read 12 volts if you check it but it can still be bad and not have the cranking amps needed to turn the engine over. I just replaced my new battery after just 14 months of service.

Most auto parts stores will test for free.

Could also be bad connection, dirty or broke cable end.

 

[beavo040]

Battery is healthy, only about 4 months old. Cold cranking isn't much of an issue, as I'm in Arizona(hell on batteries during the summer though). I don't notice any kind of power loss when attempting to start. All dash lights, chimes, and interior lights stay on as the key is turned to start, and no interuption of power once released back to the "on" position. Cables are in good condition, absolutely no corrosion at the terminals. Always the possibility of bad things going on underneath the insulation, but no visual bumps, lumps, or deformities. Going to go try to jump the solenoid right now. Will also grab the actual voltage readings and post them along with the results of the solenoid jump.

 

[beavo040]

Decided to just let it sit until the holidays were over. Anywho.....I'm working with a battery that's giving me 12.83V (give or take a tenth), voltage at the starter solenoid remains constant, so I'm doubting a cable issue. When jumping directly to starter solenoid, solenoid activates, but motor doesn't seem to turn.

Ok. I removed the starter, and judging by a visual assessment, it looks like it's had it's fair share of oil, coolant, and various other fluids leaked onto and into it. Completely disassembled the starter and cleaned up all the contacts, and removed all of the residue from the housing, magnates, brushes, etc. Reassembled and attempted bench test. Solenoid activates and kicks out the gearing nice and strong.....but still no motor turn. Bypassed solenoid and tested directly to motor terminal....still nothing. Reseeded the brushes, but no go. I can manually turn the motor using just fingertips, so I must not be getting good conductivity through the brushes(which don't even look very bad). Was hoping to just grab a block of brushes to swap out, but can't find them anywhere. Guess a whole new starter is the only option at this point.

 

[koda2000]

Decided to just let it sit until the holidays were over. Anywho.....I'm working with a battery that's giving me 12.83V (give or take a tenth), voltage at the starter solenoid remains constant, so I'm doubting a cable issue. When jumping directly to starter solenoid, solenoid activates, but motor doesn't seem to turn.

Ok. I removed the starter, and judging by a visual assessment, it looks like it's had it's fair share of oil, coolant, and various other fluids leaked onto and into it. Completely disassembled the starter and cleaned up all the contacts, and removed all of the residue from the housing, magnates, brushes, etc. Reassembled and attempted bench test. Solenoid activates and kicks out the gearing nice and strong.....but still no motor turn. Bypassed solenoid and tested directly to motor terminal....still nothing. Reseeded the brushes, but no go. I can manually turn the motor using just fingertips, so I must not be getting good conductivity through the brushes(which don't even look very bad). Was hoping to just grab a block of brushes to swap out, but can't find them anywhere. Guess a whole new starter is the only option at this point.

definitely time for a new starter. personally I'd go with a reman with a lifetime warranty or get yours rebuilt. brand new is just too much money and there's nothing wrong with a reman for this type of part.