No Crank, No Start

[koda2000]

That sounds like my problem then, the not getting 12 volts constant part i mean. Am I looking buying and installing a new positive battery cable? Is there a valid shortcut?

I don't think Ford still used a fender mounted solenoid in 2001. If they still did it's located on the driver's side fender under the hood about 1/2 way between the firewall and the battery. My '97 has one. It's kind of round with 2 large lugs (like on the starter motor mounted solenoid). One of the lugs may have a protective rubber cover on it. Check for this before replacing the POS cable.

If you do have the fender mounted solenoid, check for voltage there too. One lug (I would presume the one with the rubber cover) should have 12 volts all the time. The other one only when the key is turned to START.

A solenoid is like a remote HD switch. It is used to transfer high AMP power using a low AMP (thin) wire. Once energized it uses an electro-magnet to close the high APM switch. If it does not work it's either not getting the signal to energize or it's bad.

 

[Drying_Pan]

I do not have a fender mounted solenoid. The only one i see is attached to the starter.

 

[koda2000]

I do not have a fender mounted solenoid. The only one i see is attached to the starter.

I didn't think Ford still used the fender mounted solenoid in 2001. So you should be able to read battery voltage at the starter on the large lug all the time. If not you starter isn't connected to your battery.

 

[Drying_Pan]

I'm seeing the 12 V now. I'm told I have a short in the wires, in fact right close to the starter. Even got some sparks in testing. They must've gotten pinched, or something. Anybody got a method of replacing the wires without replacing all the positive battery cables?
Repairing the wire or some kind?

 

[koda2000]

I'm seeing the 12 V now. I'm told I have a short in the wires, in fact right close to the starter. Even got some sparks in testing. They must've gotten pinched, or something. Anybody got a method of replacing the wires without replacing all the positive battery cables?
Repairing the wire or some kind?

I don't think a viable repair is possible unless the problem is right at the starter. You don't have a short, you have a bad or open connection. That cable has to carry a lot of AMPS. Best to replace the entire POS cable.

 

[Drying_Pan]

I don't think a viable repair is possible unless the problem is right at the starter. You don't have a short, you have a bad or open connection. That cable has to carry a lot of AMPS. Best to replace the entire POS cable.

Is it ok to get a similiar grade cable from Home Depot ? Just trying to see my options?

 

[toypaseo]

Your local auto parts store could have one in stock, or can order one...?

Your local car audio shop might have the supplies for you to make your own...?

 

[Drying_Pan]

Oh i was asking because i thought i read somewhere that battery cables ran about $70. Now thqt im actually looking, that is not this case. Sorry for the dumb question. Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

O'Reilly's stocks the wire, terminals and lugs to make one. You can crimp the ends on, but soldering with a torch to melt the solder is better. Or you can get a pre-fab one of sufficient length.

 

[larivera1989]

I had problem very similar to this before in a 01 XLT. seems like it could be the ignition starter switch may the problem some of the wires may not be making contact or the whole part needs to be replaced below is a link to what the switch looks like.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-St...6c2da06&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=231449836362

 

[koda2000]

I had problem very similar to this before in a 01 XLT. seems like it could be the ignition starter switch may the problem some of the wires may not be making contact or the whole part needs to be replaced below is a link to what the switch looks like.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-St...6c2da06&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=231449836362

If the OP isn't getting 12V to the starter solenoid from the battery POS cable, his problem isn't the ignition switch. The ignition switch just energizes the starter solenoid via a thin wire.

 

[Drying_Pan]

If the OP isn't getting 12V to the starter solenoid from the battery POS cable, his problem isn't the ignition switch. The ignition switch just energizes the starter solenoid via a thin wire.

It was either a faulty starter (I know that the teeth for the flywheel didnt kick out) or loose connenction at the positive cable that gave me the sparks. I got the starter exchanged and made the connection better, and i can consistantly get 12 V. New problem is that when i turn the key, I dont hear anything, not even the click. No more lights on dash.Also my windows havent been able to go down. I still get the door open beeping. My battery is fully charged.

I was told to try a wire between the ignition wire and the positive battery terminal, and see if touching that starts the car. I can hear the starter click, but nothing. Also when the key is turned the ignition post on the starter reads 0.

 

[Tech By Trade]

How many times is the little blinkey going on the dash?

 

[swshawaii]

Did you try swapping the starter relay?

Starter relay #49 in under hood box checked in the following post.

Any chance #24 starter interrupt/anti theft relay (starter kill) in the passenger compartment box could be an issue?

Page 157
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/01u27og6e.pdf

 

[Drying_Pan]

How many times is the little blinkey going on the dash?

If you mean the antitheft light, there's about three seconds between each blink. As for the starter relay I checked that according to the manual from the beginning (no. 49 under the hood, and the interrupt/anti-theft in driver's side door box (no. 24)

 

[Drying_Pan]

I was about to replace that ignition starter switch for giggles but then I decided to take another look at my fuses. I'm not getting a reading on several fuses (Using a test light, not a multimeter). Mostly 7.5 fuses. However I take them out and they look good. Could this have been an electrical problem only getting worse?
Edit: I checked and my ignition switch fuse (number 11) was blown. At least I got my lights on the dashboard back.
Edit#2: starter interrupter/antitheft fuse on the driver side panel looks good physically ( what I checked before) but will not read any power with test light. even when I switch fuses

 

[Drying_Pan]

I got a socket on the crankshaft and my engine turned. It's kind of cool it's like a heavy wind up toy, which I assume is normal. At least it appears my engine is not locked up.

I've mostly been working on it during the day, but when I tried last night I noticed lights dim a little when I turn the key.