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2000 4.0 OHV No Crank / No Start

one week, 6 months, somewhere in there
Reman alternators and starters are slapped back together in Mexico usually......... you can learn like I did by trying to save $$$ and using them or learn the easy way and skip that whole learning process
Seriously they are not worth the box they come in!!!!!!
 



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one week, 6 months, somewhere in there
Reman alternators and starters are slapped back together in Mexico usually......... you can learn like I did by trying to save $$$ and using them or learn the easy way and skip that whole learning process
Seriously they are not worth the box they come in!!!!!!
Alright. I may return the Delco reman then.

Would you recommend a new Bosch? RockAuto only sells Motorcraft as a reman, not new.
 


















Tried that. spent two hours trying every which way. Have you actually replaced a *2000* *OHV* starter specifically?
Hey Justin, is your 2000 with the OHV manual or auto? I know the starters are a little different between the two and I'm thinking maybe one's trickier than the other.
 






I was about to say it say the same thing. I have a manual and it came out no problem. I don’t know what would be different though, except for the size of the transmission
 






25 months on my first third-party reman. Went with new Motorcraft second time.
Unfortunately, the word "remanufactured" does not mean a thing, unless they tell you what exactly was done -- which is probably not going to happen in the case of a fairly inexpensive product like a starter.
 












Tried that. spent two hours trying every which way. Have you actually replaced a *2000* *OHV* starter specifically?
Yes
In fact several
I have worked on these trucks for 25+ years now
The exhaust changed between 95 and 00 a little (2000 last year of OHV, 95 first year of IFS)
the 98-2000 OHV AUTOMATIC are the most difficult to get the starter out of in an explorer or sport due to the downpipe having changed shape
the Ranger is similar from 98-2000
the starter CAN be made to come out of that space, you have to rotate it around 180 degrees so the pinion is pointing towards the radiator, AND hold your mouth just right LOL
I do know there have been times when I loosen the transmission mount studs and jack up the t case a bit to help gain some space around the starter. And I also know I have been able to wiggle them out without lifting anything........ Keep trying, it WILL come out of there. Several curse words were used.......many of them directed at Ford engineers
 






the starter CAN be made to come out of that space, you have to rotate it around 360 degrees AND hold your mouth just right LOL
Sounds good. I'll take some pictures when I pull my starter out (of the rotated starter not of my mouth haha).
 






Replaced my starter this week and I'm wondering if the issue removing the starter (mentioned above) is only relevant to 4x4 models? Mine quite literally fell out after disconnecting the wiring and two mounting bolts.
20210906_072130.jpg
20210915_172928.jpg


Hardest part of the whole job was pulling off this lead just because the wire/loom was pretty stiff. Not too bad really.
20210915_172333.jpg


New Bosch starter appears to match the Motorcraft in every way I need it to.
20210915_173111.jpg
20210915_173051.jpg


And most importantly, my truck is now running and driving again!
 






/\ /\ 410 ...what about my 95 4x4 autom / 4 door ....is this one a headache to get out or comes out with your twist and pull method ??
I know you said it's mainly the 98 and up due to exhaust routing but since I have the transf case etc I'm curious....I recall someone saying somethign a while back that the ohv's with 4x were a headache too....
 






/\ /\ 410 ...what about my 95 4x4 autom / 4 door ....is this one a headache to get out or comes out with your twist and pull method ??
I know you said it's mainly the 98 and up due to exhaust routing but since I have the transf case etc I'm curious....I recall someone saying somethign a while back that the ohv's with 4x were a headache too....

/\ /\ 410 ...what about my 95 4x4 autom / 4 door ....is this one a headache to get out or comes out with your twist and pull method ??
I know you said it's mainly the 98 and up due to exhaust routing but since I have the transf case etc I'm curious....I recall someone saying somethign a while back that the ohv's with 4x were a headache too....
On my 95, you have too remove the starter first, then the wires twist up and out. I have too buy some new tools. I got this job down to 45 mins in and out.
 






On my 95, you have too remove the starter first, then the wires twist up and out. I have too buy some new tools. I got this job down to 45 mins in and out.
Okay ....so no jacking up on oil pan etc... just can't get cables disconnected until you unbolt starter and lower it down...
Thanks Pete buddy !
 






Okay ....so no jacking up on oil pan etc... just can't get cables disconnected until you unbolt starter and lower it down...
Thanks Pete buddy !
You face the starter up so the connection are facing you to disconnect them. Then slip the starter out
 






You face the starter up so the connection are facing you to disconnect them. The slip the starter out
That makes sense given the struggle I had too.

I did remove the starter bolts first which left the starter loose when trying to undo the wiring (made it harder to get leverage), but gave me some flexibility. If I did it again, I'd loosen all the bolts and wiring nuts, then pull out the starter bolts, then undo the wiring and let the starter free.
 






That makes sense given the struggle I had too.

I did remove the starter bolts first which left the starter loose when trying to undo the wiring (made it harder to get leverage), but gave me some flexibility. If I did it again, I'd loosen all the bolts and wiring nuts, then pull out the starter bolts, then undo the wiring and let the starter free.
At the time, I was able to purchase a 3/8 drive ratchet that you twist the handle and the drive would turn. Stanley was making then for Wal-Mart, Lowes and home depot. All those retailer stop offering them. It works nice in tight places. Sometime you get locked place using a air ratchet.
 






If your starter is OEM or Motorcraft, rebuild it. If it is not, buy a Motorcraft or OEM, and when/if it fails, rebuild it.

A new Bosch or other reputable brand is good.

Factory rebuilds are a great way to end up stuck in the worst place at the worst time.

My logic on parts is this. If it’s somewhat easy to replace and won’t cause damage/endanger you/leave you stranded? Give the cheap part a shot. If it is a critical component or it’s a pain in the ass to replace? Motorcraft or better.
 






Just a note: I have not had a good experience with a remanufactured starter from AutoZone. I now only buy gold ( new).
I would not get a starter from Auto Zone...Advance Auto....or any other such item that important.....maybe
NAPA starter........not sure on that now.....
 



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If your starter is OEM or Motorcraft, rebuild it. If it is not, buy a Motorcraft or OEM, and when/if it fails, rebuild it.

A new Bosch or other reputable brand is good.

Factory rebuilds are a great way to end up stuck in the worst place at the worst time.

My logic on parts is this. If it’s somewhat easy to replace and won’t cause damage/endanger you/leave you stranded? Give the cheap part a shot. If it is a critical component or it’s a pain in the ass to replace? Motorcraft or better.

I would not get a starter from Auto Zone...Advance Auto....or any other such item that important.....maybe
NAPA starter........not sure on that now.....
I installed a AutoZone gold starter over 16 years ago.
 






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