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Thanks, but unfortuantly for you i have one more questions. where would you get a pair of larger diameter coil buckets and the shock mounts if i were to use 1979 coils. Also what kind of moding would have to be done do the lower coil holder when using these 1979 coils. ohh and for those wondering i live in macungie and i would love to go to the Keystone wheeling meeting.

You don't have to mofify either end of the coil bucket to make those springs work. They'll fit right in.

For the shock mounts, I've already detailed how to use the F250 brackets.
 



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hey glfredrick i know that this thread is now a couple days old but i just now have kind of an opinion question for you. I have run through the list you gave me and started doing prices. With out shipping it would cost me about $657. now i am sure it could cost a little more or a little less depending on wether i could find cheaper prices, but now with that i mind i was wondering what you thought of the set up, i like the fact that it isnt super tall and unstable but i would also get close to 4.5 inches of lift. I also like that fact that it is super flexy. but i was wondering if you ran into any problems with extensions(also do you need rear brake lines with this set up) and also with a regular lift for same size for like 700 with out shipping, i was wondering if you would have go that route or really like this set up. sorry for any possible confusion in this post but basically i wanted to know what you though of the set up.
 






The stuff I listed is what I ran on my Explorer. It worked very well. I preferred it to lift kits, as I wasn't much interested in lift. Many others may disagree with that thought, and think that a lift kit is the way to go.

What I know is that I wheeled that 'Sploder over some tough country, all over the midwest and at Moab in Utah. It did a very good job, often running next to (and around) other builds that cost a lot more money.

For a budget build, it would be hard to beat the combination I listed above. From that basic platform, it is possible to build up, further modify, add high $$$ parts for increased performance, etc.

Note, that build won't get you 4.5" of lift (unless you count the body lift). It will get you over 12" of usable travel out back and over 15" up front.

Back brake lines can be extended. I didn't have to. I cut away the old spare tire carrier junk, and loosened my rear brake line and relocated it to a new position, closer to the center point, and where it could easily handle the amount of travel in the rear axle. The fronts definitely have to be extended. There is no future for the guy that uses his brake lines as limit straps... :D

I drove that truck everywhere... I lived in Louisville, KY. The truck has been driven to Moab, Wisconsin, Pennsylvania. Florida, Tennessee, and all over between -- and wheeled everywhere.

Here are a few more pics of my truck in action.

Sploder_on_the_hill.jpg


Sploder_at_work.jpg


Muddy_Sploder.jpg


15014Front_flex.jpg


15014Explorer_front_flex.jpg


15014Explorer_Flex_2.jpg
 






Alrighty man, thanks algain and i hope i can finally finish this thread, hahaha
 






Other modifications include moving the air intake to the top of the hood to stop the problem in filling the factory air box with mud and water. Cost $30.00. Use eBay cheapy hood scoop, and RV flexible plastic hose. Also works as a power adder.

Do you have any pictures of people doing this air box mod? I'm not sure if I am picturing the correct thing or not.
 






Do you have any pictures of people doing this air box mod? I'm not sure if I am picturing the correct thing or not.

I have a couple of pics, but the mod is really simple.

I cut open a hole in the front, right side of the box, under the filter, to introduce air from the hood, and the hole was large enough to silicone in a fitting that worked with the 3" hose I used as ducting.

I then glued in a piece over the factory hole in the front of the box, to stop water from getting in from the grill area.

Here, you can see the hood scoop. It is a simple eBay scoop that cost me about $10. Below it, I cut a hole in the hood and riveted in a fitting for the duct hose.

Hood_scoop_1.jpg


I don't seem to have an under-hood shot.

This is what I used for ducting. It worked great, and held up much better than I thought it would. It was still in service after several years under the hood. At $1 a foot, replacement is no biggie, but it did great.

I also used the fittings designed for this.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/blueline-ultimate-sewer-hose/2638
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/blueline-pushover-quick-connector/6834

Stop in at any RV store for a wide selection of potential parts.

Here is one of the back spring setup though. Note the skid plate I welded over the u-bolt cover.

15014Rear_Srpings_2.jpg
 






That mod will work with any TTB=styled front end. That limits it to the 91-94 model years. After that, the front axle switched to independent and you can't get close to the same amount of articulation and travel.
What I meant was what year F-250 do the shock mounts have to come off of
 






What I meant was what year F-250 do the shock mounts have to come off of


Don't know the year, but the Ford part number is:

E5TZ 18183A.

Don't bother dealing with these at the salvage yard. They are about $15 a pop at Ford. It would take longer to get them off at the yard than they are worth. Otherwise, just start popping your head under the fenders of F250s. I think they are mid 80s models.
 






thanks glfredrick
 






Thanks. Looks pretty cool. I'll have to do some hunting to try and find some under the hood pics of that thing. Someone is bound to have them around here.
 






Thanks. Looks pretty cool. I'll have to do some hunting to try and find some under the hood pics of that thing. Someone is bound to have them around here.

Check jman689 posts. He bought the truck from me. I think that he has an underhood shot.
 






Anybody got any specs on the 2 eye 15" stroke shocks glfredrick mentioned?
 






ok guys i know this is a couple months old now, but i tryed the f360 break lines, well i ordered them abd they had metal tubes on the end that would not fit. the end was bent 90 degrees. now did i just get the wrong ones, or do i just need the rubber hose for it? thanks in advance
 






ok guys i know this is a couple months old now, but i tryed the f360 break lines, well i ordered them abd they had metal tubes on the end that would not fit. the end was bent 90 degrees. now did i just get the wrong ones, or do i just need the rubber hose for it? thanks in advance

You use the entire line -- you can't take apart brake lines and just use the rubber part.

You may need to turn the line in a different direction where it bolts to the brake caliper to make it work -- and you may need to SLIGHTLY bend the steel part of the line. To bend it, use your fingers, go slow, and bend a small amount at a time. If it kinks, it will break, and no more usable brake line.

To clock the banjo fitting, you may have to file or grind a new flat to correspond to the flat side where it matches the caliper. Find out the best angle, then flie the flat on the new line so it can fit at that angle. The lines don't care which diretion they run, so make them fit.

I've used them on two different projects and they've worked out well on both.



On the shocks, here is Rancho's PDF shock catalog. Just start looking for shocks that match your needs -- eye style, length, and valving. Other companies offer similar things, so if you are not a Rancho fan, check others. Also, shockwharehouse.com has a lot of choices and some great prices. I just got a set of Bilstein HD shocks for my Trailblazer -- buy 3, get one free, free shipping, and a discounted price also. All 4 cost me about $165 -- the cost of about one and a half at regular prices.

http://www.gorancho.com/products/docs/08Shocks.pdf
 






Does it matter if the F150 springs are 2wd or 4wd? Also are those the only years that you can use? Or the best years? As far as the spacers go can those come out of a 4wd or a 2wd? I'm liking this idea as a inexpensive way to gain some flex and lift.
 






From what I've seen, the 4x4 springs are taller than the two-wheel drive versions. That isn't the only year, but they had a taller truck in that year than in later years. You can also use earler, but the older you get the harder they are to find. Sort of a trade-off.

I typically go to the salvage yard, tape measure in hand, and start looking for stuff that will suit my needs. My technique assumes that you have free access to the salvaged vehicles, and I know that isn't the case all the time. The spring spacers are on all F150s in the mid 90s. They are not spacers on the F150s, just the lower spring seat. When used on our application, they give an additional lift, as our springs sit right on the axle arm.
 






So.. how do you think a 12000lb winch tucked in up front would affect all this? Have a lead on trading my snow blower for one. Weights 136lbs though.. The M12000 seems like over kill to me but is worth a lot more than my snow blower..
 






Two thoughts... I'll give you $50 for the winch. :D

And, the F150 springs will be too soft. The idea behind the F150 springs is to soften up the front end so it travels better, but adding a heavy winch way out front will change things somewhat. You might be better served by using lift coils from an Explorer in your case.

One thing you might consider is running synthetic winch rope instead of the steel. That will reduce the weight of the winch to a point where it hardly matters. Of course, there is a cost involved. I like winchline.com. You can get a good price on it from Moab Off-Road in Louisville, KY.
 



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I wonder if I really need a winch and if I should just hold out for the smaller one that weighs bout 75lbs.. Right now I don't have much cash but I do have a few things to trade and a junkyard that lets you roam at will. Trying to plan ahead a little as putting springs and whatnot on is hard work. Don't want to do it twice due to me not thinking ahead! LOL!
 






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