New Toy

[01STrunner]

I am new here also. I never even dreamed I would own one of these. Just never thought about it I guess. Much like Koda, I bought mine for a grand from the original owner's son. he can't drive anymore and had no idea what he had, nor did I have any idea what I was buying. But for a thousand, how far could you go wrong?... Well since that day a couple months ago I put on tires, brakes, alignment, shocks, EGR sensor (check engine light fixed), and thanks to one of ours on this forum, fixed the brake/turn signals due to a tilt-wheel issue. So far I like it a lot. I've always driven older rigs and I love the mileage. I like 01strunners lifted rig a lot. I wouldn't need that tall but a bit of lift if it didn't compromise other issues would be cool. And a bit more power out of the 4.0 would be nice if it didn't hurt the mileage. The only issue I haven't tackled yet is the 2-3 shift in the trans. It will either rev way high or shift back down and hold, rev again, then the O/D SHIFT light starts blinking. But so far the rig is growing on me.

The shift flare can often be fixed by replacing the shift solenoids. It's actually a really easy job where the hardest thing is dropping the trans pan and not getting oil on yourself.

Thanks for the shoutout as well. It's a little too tall for me but the 3" BL will be removed someday when I get the time. If you want to see it with only a mild lift check out my registry linked in my signature. I've got pictures of it with TT/shackles + BL and 35s.

 

[koda2000]

Picked up 2 new Bosch wiper blades today, new windshield is supposed to be installed tomorrow. Once I get it home again I plan to do the engine flush and sump removal, then begin the tedious process of finishing the coolant flush (rinse and repeat...). After that I'm waiting on parts to arrive (both new and used). If I really get bored maybe I'll pull the driver's door to check for broken wires, or pull the rear axels to change the seals.

 

[01STrunner]

Coolant flushes are almost as fun as trans flushes. Good luck man.

 

[koda2000]

Coolant flushes are almost as fun as trans flushes. Good luck man.

I'd rather do a trans flush. It least that stuff is easy to dispose of at any of the auto parts stores. I'll have to sneak the coolant in a little bit a time. I have dogs, horses a cat and a fish pond, so I have to be really careful with that stuff. For now I'll be filling and covering "Homer" buckets until the engine is just filled with water. I wish they hadn't done away with block drains.

 

[koda2000]

Today's Update:
New windshield installed this morning. Didn't take long to do, maybe 45 mins.

Plans for later today:
Engine flush
Drop sump
Drain cooling system flush and begin process of rinsing cooling system

 

[koda2000]

Today's Progress:
Put in the MotorMedic engine flush and idled the engine for the prescribed 5 mins, then drained the oil. It was pretty dirty, what with the flush and having driven it about 300 miles since the first oil change, but I think I'll get some of the Amsoil Engine Flush for the next oil change. Then I removed the sump pan. Ewwwww nasty!. I must have spooned out 6-7 heaping tablespoons full of sludge. Gross! I'm really glad I pulled the sump off. At least there weren't any timing chain cassette plastic, or metal, parts in the sump. The oil pickup screen was still about 25% clogged (probably explains the near zero oil pressure at idle during my first test drive). Looking up into the bottom of the engine, I don't see any additional accumulation of sludge, but the valve cover/heads no doubt have some. I need to change the passenger side valve cover gasket, so I'll find out then. I'll run the Amsoil Flush through it first and pull the sump again.

Does anyone know if the screen can be removed from the plastic oil pickup to clean it? it looks like the bottom of the pickup should come off/unscrew, but I don't want to break it. If not, I'm sure I can get it clean by soaking it.

I soaked the oil pickup/screen in Purple Power. It came clean. AZ had a new oil pan gasket in stock (probably could have reused the old gasket, but it didn't look that healthy). Cleaned the sump, filled and replaced the oil filter and, as soon as my daughter gets home with the oil pan gasket, I can reinstall the sump and fill the engine with oil. Then back to the coolant flush rinse & repeat.

It's freaking hot out today in the sun, so I don't plan to do much more until I get the truck back into the relatively cool garage (where the fan is).

 

[Kjhadfield]

You go back and forth on terms- sump and oil pan. I had assumed when you said sump, it was the oil pan but now I'm confused.

I wouldn't mind pulling my pan to see what's inside- hopefully nothing but oil. It's just a matter of x amount of bolts around the pan and drop it down (obviously drain 1st)? I would also replace the gasket. Anything else I should know or look at? You mentioned cleaning some screen, were you able to remove it then clean it and did you scrub the screen or just soak. Would brake cleaner work and how did you make sure the purple power was removed from the screen- just flush with water for some time.

Another thing, you mentioned filled and replace oil filter. You fill the filter when you install new, every time? How come or the reason why. If I had a garage I'd be in heaven, would also do more work on the truck- this heat can drain your soul

 

[koda2000]

You go back and forth on terms- sump and oil pan. I had assumed when you said sump, it was the oil pan but now I'm confused.

I wouldn't mind pulling my pan to see what's inside- hopefully nothing but oil. It's just a matter of x amount of bolts around the pan and drop it down (obviously drain 1st)? I would also replace the gasket. Anything else I should know or look at? You mentioned cleaning some screen, were you able to remove it then clean it and did you scrub the screen or just soak. Would brake cleaner work and how did you make sure the purple power was removed from the screen- just flush with water for some time.

Another thing, you mentioned filled and replace oil filter. You fill the filter when you install new, every time? How come or the reason why. If I had a garage I'd be in heaven, would also do more work on the truck- this heat can drain your soul

The oil pan on the Ford 4.0L SOHC engine consists of 2 parts. What I call the sump is the sheet metal lower pan that is held in place by ten 10mm bolts. The oil pickup screen sits in the lower pan. the oil pump is located in the upper portion. If you try to look up OIL PAN gasket, you will see 2 gaskets shown. The smaller gasket is for the lower pan. The lower pan is very easy to remove. If you're lucky you can even reuse the gasket. It can't hurt to remove the lower pan and see what you find. Hopefully just oil, but with the 4.0L SOHC engine you just never know.

Yes, I prefill the oil filter with oil very time I do an oil change. I've done this all my life. It allows you to get oil pressure up immediately upon engine start (rather than waiting for the oil pump to fill the oil filter first). Dry starts cause a lot of engine/bearing damage.

There is an 8mm bolt that holds the oil pickup (with it's screen) to the bottom of the upper oil pan. Remove the bolt and wiggle the pickup off the pump (there are 2 O-rings on the pump side. Be sure to lube the O-rings when installing the pickup). I ended up soaking the pickup in a bowl of Purple Power for about an hour. Then I rinsed it with hot water and dried it with air compressor.

Oh, and yes, you should absolutely drain the oil before removing the lower pan.

 

[Markek]

Koda,

I'm amazed at the progress you've made so far. Great job!!

 

[koda2000]

Koda,

I'm amazed at the progress you've made so far. Great job!!

Thanks, lots more to do.

 

[Kjhadfield]

The oil pan on the Ford 4.0L SOHC engine consists of 2 parts. What I call the sump is the sheet metal lower pan that is held in place by ten 10mm bolts. The oil pickup screen sits in the lower pan. the oil pump is located in the upper portion. If you try to look up OIL PAN gasket, you will see 2 gaskets shown. The smaller gasket is for the lower pan. The lower pan is very easy to remove. If you're lucky you can even reuse the gasket. It can't hurt to remove the lower pan and see what you find. Hopefully just oil, but with the 4.0L SOHC engine you just never know.

Thanks for the descriptive explanation. That's exactly why I want to do it now that you mentioned it- this will give me an idea of the shape internally (mainly timing chain issues) and ease my mind or worry how long I have before being forced with big decisions. I don't think I can take a blow like that. But if I don't find any pieces, I'll definately replace the chain tensioners starting with the rear (because it seems the easiest) then the front. I actually posted about a leak and until recently didn't know what part it was (it's near the rear tensioner)

Yes, I prefill the oil filter with oil very time I do an oil change. I've done this all my life. It allows you to get oil pressure up immediately upon engine start (rather than waiting for the oil pump to fill the oil filter first). Dry starts cause a lot of engine/bearing damage.

That is a great explanation and exactly what I was looking for, makes since (it sure wouldn't hurt) and I think I'll start making this a habit- thanks. About 1/2 full?

There is an 8mm bolt that holds the oil pickup (with it's screen) to the bottom of the upper oil pan. Remove the bolt and wiggle the pickup off the pump (there are 2 O-rings on the pump side. Be sure to lube the O-rings when installing the pickup). I ended up soaking the pickup in a bowl of Purple Power for about an hour. Then I rinsed it with hot water and dried it with air compressor.

Above you said the pickup screen sits in the lower pan. So you mean the screen sits in the lower pan (when attached) but it's actually attached to the upper pan?

Oh, and yes, you should absolutely drain the oil before removing the lower pan.

lol, this I at least knew. Unlike dropping the transmission pan and having to be careful lowering it.

 

[cgray521]

Great thread! I checked out 01strunners registry and it was worth it. Mine has to be daily driver so would never do SAS or anything like that but pretty cool to see the progression in pics. I really like the short lift. Anyone know if it's a basic available kit? Also does anyone know of a company that may offer the (modified versions) roof racks, bed rail covers, bug deflectors, things like that? Also thinking about trying the plasti-dip in matching white for the lower plastic stuff...Anyone tried that?

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for the descriptive explanation. That's exactly why I want to do it now that you mentioned it- this will give me an idea of the shape internally (mainly timing chain issues) and ease my mind or worry how long I have before being forced with big decisions. I don't think I can take a blow like that. But if I don't find any pieces, I'll definately replace the chain tensioners starting with the rear (because it seems the easiest) then the front. I actually posted about a leak and until recently didn't know what part it was (it's near the rear tensioner)

That is a great explanation and exactly what I was looking for, makes since (it sure wouldn't hurt) and I think I'll start making this a habit- thanks. About 1/2 full?


Above you said the pickup screen sits in the lower pan. So you mean the screen sits in the lower pan (when attached) but it's actually attached to the upper pan?


lol, this I at least knew. Unlike dropping the transmission pan and having to be careful lowering it.

1. I fill the oil filter full (to the bottom of the threads). The oil will soak into the filter media, so I usually have to add oil to it about 2 times.

2. The oil pickup sits on the bottom of the lower pan and the screen is located inside the pickup. The pickup is attached to the oil pump (which is in the upper part of the pan). The oil pump has tube, which extends down into the lower pan. The tube has two O-rings on it, which seal the two parts together. The pickup pushes on to the tube. The 8mm bolt holding the pickup in place is captive/attached on the oil pickup. After completely unscrewing the pickup bolt, twist and pull the pickup to remove it from the oil pump tube. Be sure to lubricate the O-rings before reinstalling the pickup.

This is the gasket I used (Felpro OS30687R $17.99 at AutoZone):

Best Oil Pan Gasket Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

BTW, The rear tensioner has a metal gasket on it. That appears to be the source of you leak. This gasket must be installed correctly and the tensioner torqued to spec, or it will leak like hell. Tip: Use some grease on the gasket to hold it in position when installing the tensioner.

 

[koda2000]

So today I was trying to continue my coolant flush rinse. Drained the rad and went to refill it only to discover the water on my street is turned off while they fix a pipe. aarrrggg! So instead I decided to take a nap. Too damn hot anyway.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Thanks, I'll start filling the filter on the next oil change- coming soon. And again thanks for the descriptive explanation of the screen! Since I don't plan on pulling the pan immediately, I'll look on rock auto for a cheaper price for a gasket and guess I'll wait to order the tensioner until I Hopefully see no plastic in the pan- i didn't know that about the metal gasket. What grease would be ok, I would of thought anything but oil would contaminate

 

[koda2000]

Thanks, I'll start filling the filter on the next oil change- coming soon. And again thanks for the descriptive explanation of the screen! Since I don't plan on pulling the pan immediately, I'll look on rock auto for a cheaper price for a gasket and guess I'll wait to order the tensioner until I Hopefully see no plastic in the pan- i didn't know that about the metal gasket. What grease would be ok, I would of thought anything but oil would contaminate

Any kind of grease. It will just hold the metal gasket in place wile you screw the tensioner in.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
So I had my nap and it was somewhat cooler in the garage after dinner, so I started taking the driver's door apart in preparation for it's removal for window wiring investigation/repair and hinge replacement. I recalled that the driver's door sometimes made a clunking noise when it's closed, so I decided to investigate. Turns out the rear lower glass track was laying in the bottom of the door. Further investigation showed that the spot welded lower bracket had broken off. I thought about having it re-welded (I've got a guy that would have probably done it for $5) but decided I could repair it myself for free. I ground down the protruding spot weld material on the bracket and drilled to small holes where they used to be. Then I peeled back the rubber track and installed two drill screws through the holes in the metal track and into the bracket. I had to cut some of the protruding threads off the screws with my cutting wheel, but it worked out perfectly. I was afraid the screw heads might interferer with the glass, but they don't (they're quite small). Another zero cost repair made.

 

[koda2000]

So far today:

Cleaned up the inside side of the driver's door, repaired the torn weather shield with Gorilla tape, cleaned the interior door panel and master switch. The PO must have left this trucking, with the windows open, on dusty construction sites.

Downloaded/printed the wiring diagram for the power windows circuit so I can test the wires for continuity.

Received my new coolant/windshield washer fluid tank from Tasca and installed it. I had to remove the cruise control and air cleaner box to get at the 2 nuts on the bottom of it. Turned out the one I had originally ordered was not the correct one (even though I'd entered my VIN number). Tasca sent me an email telling me that before it shipped, so I had to buy the $56 one instead of the $32 one... figures. Wonder why so many parts are unique to the ST?

Received the new interior door handle, that I noticed was popped, for the only door I didn't think I needed to take apart. Maybe I'll install that this evening. Too hot right now. Then I need to finish my cooling system rinse.

Things still on the list (that I know of):
Fix windows and locks
Replace driver' door lower hinge
Trans flush with filter
Valve cover gaskets
Rear diff bearings and seals, fluid and LS additive
Install new rear brake shoes
Brake fluid flush
Power steering fluid flush
Replace leather seat bottom on driver's seat
Reupholster console lid
Remove front seats and clean rubber floor mat
Finish detailing the interior
Replace body mount bushings
Get heat to work (suspect blend door actuator is not functioning)
Remove instrument cluster lens and get all the dirt/dust out of it
Swap the black part of the plastic bed for a nicer/cleaner one
Paint the bottom part of the front bumper with gray bumper paint
Maybe have the crack in the D/S bedside repaired while it's off
Maybe have the scratch in the driver's side front fender repaired

 

[Kjhadfield]

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/for/5107223301.html

It further away and more $ but http://nh.craigslist.org/ptd/5054102714.html

 

[koda2000]

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/for/5107223301.html

It further away and more $ but http://nh.craigslist.org/ptd/5054102714.html

Yeah, the first link is the wrong side. The second link looks pretty good, but too far away and too much money. I had found a good complete bed w/sides in the right color for $500 in Stockbridge, GA, but I've been speaking with a guy in Knoxville, who has a spare bed, about swapping our black bed part for a reasonable price. Maybe I'll find a good left bedside somewhere for not much money. Once it's off, I guess I can do the body work and just pay someone to paint it. Thanks for looking.