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New Truck VS Modified Explorer. Opinions?

rs2k

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 29, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Wichita, KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie
I've been thinking a lot about this lately. I was looking at new car prices... Ouch. They seem insane. 40K+ for something somewhat similar to my 1998 Eddie Bauer. Including gas, purchase price, taxes, fees, insurance, repair and maintenance, I have under $5000 in my Explorer for almost a year of ownership. It's been a great vehicle that has really grown on me.

I guess no vehicle is ever an investment. As nice as a new truck would be, there's one thing it can't provide for quite a while... The feeling you get from fixing or upgrading an older vehicle.

There are a few things I'd like to change about my explorer. I'd like more engine power, I'd like a bit smoother ride and I'd wish the transmission would be so quick to shift from 4th to third while towing (For this reason I tow in third). I'm thinking more engine torque would solv the transmission issue, I think replacing worn bushings and old-as-the-hills and over inflated tires might fix the ride issue (Already have 5 new air shocks), but what about the engine power?

Buying a worn 302 and building it the way I want (347 stoker?) is something I'd consider. I'd really like at least 300 HP with at least a similar 30% or so increase in torque if possible. The more the merrier, but I want to be able to still tow easily.

I'd like some input from people who have modified their Explorers. Do you think it was worth it? What kind of costs would I be looking at to make a 300 HP explorer?
 



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I would add torque monster headers 700 bucks or so.. that will add 20 hp and 20 torque.. not sure where you live but you could cut out the cats and run true dual straight pipes.. get the whole exhaust system opened up.. the intake is pretty good but you can get the mac intake that others have found success with. smaller gears like 4.10s might help. a tune from James at Henson performance would certainly help for towing and lastly and probably the most work involved would be swap out your transfer care for a bw4406. that would get rid of the awd and you would have RWD 4 hi and 4 lo... that will free up some power...
 






Not to hi-jack but I wonder if a 351w is a bolt in?
 






Not a bolt it - Custom oil pan, steering shaft clearance issues, heater box clearance, more than likely a bodylift/ cowl hood needed for extra height, custom exhaust setup, and these are just the more obvious issues with that can of worms.
 






PBNJ hit it right on with all of his advice - def the most economical ways to getting that extra grunt out of your setup without sacrificing reliability/ MPG.

If you are serious about wanting a built up 302 base motor, the best option would be to buy a second engine as a builder and do it as funds/ time allows. Minimal downtime, maximum beastmode!

347 is the biggest stroker you can build on a 302 based engine, but everything I have read tells me to stay away from that kit - The 331 has had a much better track record of reliability, and can make gobs of power. There is an insane aftermarket for 302 - do your homework, take it slow, and your Explorer will make you smile every time you drive it.
 






If rust isn't an issue, mod it!

its rust that's the killer of vehicles.
 






Rust? What rust? :) Only issue it has is slight hail damage. Doesn't bother me though. Gives it character.

Anything I can do with the heads on the stock bottom and pistons? I've got the intake off (and broke a bolt in the head in the process) and pretty much have 30 days to do what ever to it. Money isn't too much of an issue, but I don't really want it throw it away either. The headers are interesting, but I don't really like how the whole group order went down and would prefer to stay away from them... but I think they are the only option when it comes to headers... Also, why spend $800 on a set of headers when I can put that elsewhere?
 






Rust? What rust? :) Only issue it has is slight hail damage. Doesn't bother me though. Gives it character.

Anything I can do with the heads on the stock bottom and pistons? I've got the intake off (and broke a bolt in the head in the process) and pretty much have 30 days to do what ever to it. Money isn't too much of an issue, but I don't really want it throw it away either. The headers are interesting, but I don't really like how the whole group order went down and would prefer to stay away from them... but I think they are the only option when it comes to headers... Also, why spend $800 on a set of headers when I can put that elsewhere?

1. i was probably the biggest negative person about that group buy and though it was a long wait i got mine and am really satisfied with them. im sure they have extras you can buy now too without the wait. and 2. 800 dollars on these headers for this explorer is very well spent in my opinion.. if you saw the stock exhaust manifold you would see why. those do not flow worth a dam... there is a torque monster header install thread on here somewhere that has pictures comparing them. look at that and you will see what i mean.. and with other mods you wont get much out of them if you cant flow air out... remember engines are just a huge air pump.. the faster you can put air and fuel in, and get air out of the engine the faster it will go.. the more extreme you go (generally) you lose reliability... which is why i suggested a modest complete exhaust setup, intake, tune. and see where that gets you. After that i would be looking into better suspension in the rear if your gonna tow alot of weight. adding a trans cooler is not a bad idea ( if you dont have one already) then making sure your trans fluid is clean and just staying up on maintenance. Have clean fluids, filters, good plugs plug wires etc and you will be close to your hp power level and still be very reliable.
 






I replaced the solenoids and a valve and spring in the transmission last year. Been running great ever since. New fluid and filter as well.

What would you suggest for the intake?
 






look in to new aluminum heads. It's amazing what a set of aftermarket heads can do.
Afr, and edelbrock seem to make great aluminum heads. It's true that headers would really make a difference, and even more of a difference on a set of aftermarket heads.

I can't help you with compatability though. I did touch on it with James Henson, and he does know what heads will work with factory pistons and exhaust flanges on our trucks.

Depending on the heads and valve springs, 1.7 rockers may be an option also.

Again, it's about pumping as much air thru the motor with the least restriction.

I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with this.
 






Well, what I REALLY want to do is add a turbo. There's absolutely nothing that compares to the whine of a turbine. We'll see what happens. :D
 






Well, we are both thinking along the same lines.

I have a feeling I might not get to the install till spring. Im hoping to have the gauges, and fuel pump in by fall. Some of the hang up i getting a nice long straight path for the maf, and getting that intake tube thru the wheel well.




Lets see how I make out.
 






I figure a remote turbo install will be about the same cost as headers + intake, a lot more unique, and much more fun. I'd also make it easy to R&R to go back to stock if needed. I bought a welder just for this reason. :D

I have quite a bit to learn though.

Not sure what to do about the fuel system. I've been told I should replace the injectors and a matched MAF or get a tuner to adjust the lb/hr on the injectors. Not sure what to go with though. Any ideas?

Thinking something like this:
Step 1: Injectors + MAF. (Already at the injectors, maybe I should replace them now)
Step 2: Prepare exhaust and turbo mount.
Step 3: Prepare intake path
Step 4: Prepare remote Intake filter/box
Step 5: Prepare oil feed system
Step 6: Install
Step 7: Tune
Step 8: WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
 






Your not going to do injectors and maf and have a working truck without tuning.

I checked with James on this and he says it would be two completely different strategies for tuning.

The best thing is to install fuel pump, do all your pre-fitting on intake side, and rough in oil lines.
Then, install the turbo(for me, at the exhaust shop) and attach oil lines. Have the filter on the inlet of the turbo, and just let the turbo blow in to the air to get home. Then install the new maf, injectors, and cold side piping. After that, install your base tune.
Sorry, there's no easy way to make sure there's no down time.

Better get on the parts collection/install so we can swap stories on the issues we are having to help with resolutions.

If your serious, you better start talking to a tuner right away. James Henson is working with me to make sure I end up with a product that can be tuned effectively.
 






Is the stock fuel pump not powerful enough for a turbo?

It's the tuning I'd like to limit. I'd like to get things together and then drive it down to get tuned. Not sure if this'll work though. I wonder if I could get it safe enough to drive with a hand held tuner. Otherwise I'd be looking at towing the vehicle around which is something I want to avoid.

Basically, I want to do this with minimal downtime, no towing and only one tuning session... might need two tunes though to keep the vehicle running.


Maybe I can do this though to at least remove the towing:
Install bigger injectors
Drive the rich running car to the tuner.
Get a Tune.
Install Turbo
Drive it carefully to the tuner and get another tune... or let the turbo blow into the air letting the engine run NA and hook it back up in the tuner's parking lot. ;)
 






My Reason for having a '96 Eddie Bauer, instead of a new Diesel truck, is what I hope everybody thinks about. The gas is the same, it is cheaper to insure, and I can have all of the new gadgets with a little work, and it would be less then half the cost, so I see no need to buy a new truck, I will just run mine until, everything falls off. I don't tow anything, I just want a big nice truck, but as I can see it there is no point.
 






My Reason for having a '96 Eddie Bauer, instead of a new Diesel truck, is what I hope everybody thinks about. The gas is the same, it is cheaper to insure, and I can have all of the new gadgets with a little work, and it would be less then half the cost, so I see no need to buy a new truck, I will just run mine until, everything falls off. I don't tow anything, I just want a big nice truck, but as I can see it there is no point.

Those are the line I'm thinking along... except I also tow, but I don't tow much and what I do tow the explorer handles quite well... just would like a little more power. The explorer also drives and handles much better than a new Diesel truck would. I also don't know of any new vehicles with a ride height switch. :D
 






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