Newbie here--Owner of 3 Explorers--5.0 issues

[GroupExploder]

OK gentlemen, be gentle with me! I acquired 3--maybe upwards to 5 2nd generation Explorers from my son's airline company. They were selling a bunch of them, I bid on 3--WON--two more pending.

OK that being said. The problem child is the 98 Eddie Bauer version, 5.0. Mechanically the SUV is solid and running. But the AC and the alarm setup has me baffled.

My 99 XLT is my daily driver. I have it down pat. I have the alarm figured out, with a fob. Nice ride even though it has 200k on it, the engine was replaced by Delta Airlines last year. The AC was rebuilt, new tires, brakes and all. (Gotta love airline mechanics being so **** about repairs...)

The 99 EB-5.0 version horn went off last night when I slammed the driver's door. I had to pull the relay to shut it down. I pulled the code from the rear shelf for the factory reset of the driver's door keypad. The 7/8 9/0 combo locks. the 2/3 also clicks.

But when I enter the code, nothing happens. Unlike, my 98 and 99 which I have programmed. Those it does lock and unlock from the keypad.

I checked all fuses. Good. I put the horn relay back in, the horn was silent. Then when shut the door it went off again. I pulled the relay.

Additionally, in this instant, the driver's door does not lock with the key. Nor does it lock when I used the U/L switch on the door panel. So I assume, the locking motor in the door is DOA.

Next will be a real POA. The driver side rear door won't open with the lock or the switch. I see the metal rod in the door slightly move up when I hit the UNLOCK switch on the driver's door. I tried pulling it up farther with a needle nose then the door handle--nada. Both inside and out.

How do I get the door to open? The door is shut. I figure this will be a REAL problem child.

Next thing I noticed was hot air coming thru the vents, which is indicative of the heat is on when I turned the AC on.

The EB version has that push-button control panel over the XLT versions that have the twin switches up higher to control heat/vent/AC and so on.

Yes the AC was and is weak. I will try charging it later this weekend. I have the ability to put gauges on it, etc etc. Freon in Calif is expensive but I have a source outside of Cali that brings it in for me on the cheap.

I did zip tie the vac-control valve on the passenger's side of the engine to try to shut off hot fluid from entering the cabin. I'm not sure I was successful.

I do hear some movement under the dash as if the blend doors are moving. There is not much room down on the driver's door to see anything or broken. Switching from floor to def to vent the air does move from vent to vent. JUST HOT. It does seem to me, that the incoming air should not be quite this warm considering the ambient temp from outside. Thus this is why I tried to block the heater from receiving engine temp fluid while I was testing. The controls appear to be receiving vacuum.

You turn the unit to OFF nothing comes in. It is driveable in 90 deg weather with all the windows down.

Yes, I did download and print the PAT thread someone put up a few years back. Very good. Helped me program the keypads on the other two Exploders. And, helped me find the factory code in the rear.

Anyone wish to offer me some advice, I will see that ALLAH blesses you with 190 virgins....(LOL). As if that is any big reward.

I just need some direction and some leads on where to start. Other than calling the tow truck soon to haul it to a shop.

I'm retired, owned a trucking company after retiring from the DA's office. So I sorta can wrench my way to somewhat of a mess, along with having ex employees that help me out, like rebuilding the front suspensions on the XLT's currently.

 

[koda2000]

Nice buy. By the time you get all the little problems fixed you'll be an Explorer expert too.

Honestly, most all of the problems you are having are common to the Gen II Explorer. I suggest you try using the SEARCH function of the forum to find other threads with answers/fixes. Also look in the "List of useful threads section" (link below) for help with many of your issues.

List of Useful Threads - Stock 2nd Gen Forum's Best Threads

We're here to help, but you're asking a lot of questions to issues that have been covered here many times. If after you've searched you still need help, just ask.

BTW - Keep the white one, as it appears to be the only one of the 3 that's a V8.

 

[GroupExploder]

One more thing to add, on the red 98--the radio jumps from FM to CD then back to FM then back to CD.

I read some of the postings on the above noted "Useful threads" in regards to the fading radio, clock, but I did not see anything appropriate for the jumping back and forth. I am assuming--there is a short somewhere in the radio. WHICH if repairable, I would do so myself.

 

[koda2000]

One more thing to add, on the red 98--the radio jumps from FM to CD then back to FM then back to CD.

I read some of the postings on the above noted "Useful threads" in regards to the fading radio, clock, but I did not see anything appropriate for the jumping back and forth. I am assuming--there is a short somewhere in the radio. WHICH if repairable, I would do so myself.

I would guess something is happening with the MODE switch. If this vehicle has steering wheel mounted radio controls it could be the switch itself or the clock spring. If this vehicle does not have steering wheel mounted controls the fault must be in the radio itself. Repairing the radio is going to cost you at least $100 + two-way shipping, so if you can't fix it yourself you may be better off putting in an aftermarket radio. You'll lose some OE functionality, but most people today don't buy CD's anymore and would rather have the AUX jack for their smart phones.

 

[GroupExploder]

I'm heading to PikAPart etal this weekend to hunt for parts
I've seen radios on the ground in the past. I want a control panel for the EB 5.0 version.

 

[koda2000]

I'm heading to PikAPart etal this weekend to hunt for parts
I've seen radios on the ground in the past. I want a control panel for the EB 5.0 version.

What do you mean by "control panel"? The front face to the radio? If you find one, make sure that it matches your old radio exactly. If you have the top-end Mach radio, the next version down w/out the RDS button will not work. Most Eddie Bauer's came with the Mach radio (the one with the RDS button instead of the CLOCK button) with the rear sub woofer/AMP. However this radio is the least reliable due to the display going out. They all do this unless you have them rebuilt and modified. They do produce pretty good sound quality though.

 

[GroupExploder]

OK, drove the 5.0 today. Several minor annoying issues that I need to address.

1. The rear diff is making some noise. About 35-40 you can hear it whine, not loudly, not something that indicates it will crash and burn shortly, but clearly there is some work to be done on the rear end. I did drain it, replaced the oil with 90-140 and some Lucas. No huge chunks or crap came out in the drain.

2. Radio has no display--(searching for solutions as Koda2000 suggested). It works, but no display.

3. Mirrors do not work. Since that door panel has to come off, I will when out at the junkyards, grab several switches. Along with activators, since the drivers does nothing when you set the U/L switch.

4. No interior lights. I did pull all the fuses and checked them in the sunlight. I am going to get off the net the fuse panel locations for each fuse.

5. Both the Green 99 and this 5.0, the alarms go off at will. The only way to shut them down it to pull the relay. The Green 4.0 works with the fob, the doors, and the keypad, but randomly the horn goes off. The only way to stop it....pop the hood, pull the relay. Reset the relay. No matter if you use the fob, or the keypad or the internal U/L switch, the horn continues to bark.

I noticed the 5.0 all four side lamps blinking at once. Which I assume is the alarm going off without the horn relay installed. I opened and closed each door securely. I locked the front door., I reset the U/L button and the 7/8-9/0 button on the keyless, the lights continued to flash for about a minute. Then stopped.
I gotta study this. I need to set up a key fob for this 5.0 anyway.

6. On the 5.0, I am going to put a temp block on the coolant from entering the heater core. Even though I have the vacuum switch tied shut with zip-ties, last night when I drove it, I could still feel overly warm air coming from the vents. So coolant is still getting into the heater core. I will this week study the blend doors, and associated flaps below the dash. I CAN hear movement when I touch the buttons on this Eddie Bauer version, so something is working down there. The floor comes on, then vent then def, but warm air continues to flow. Even with the ambient temp of 75--the air flow is too warm.

7. My tenant finished the red 98 4.0 front suspension. Upper to lowers to ties to sway bar bushing. NICE. I have another complete front suspension box of new parts, we climbed up under the 5.0. The right side upper balljoint is completely gone. So he will do the front suspension on the 5.0.

The rear differential does bug me. It makes this low-level howl for a long time. It may crap out quickly. My 99 Suburban 4x4 has made noise for 100,000 miles, not getting any worse or dying. So for the time being, we will let it ride.

Thanks for the advice Koda2000

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d swap the rear axle from the 4.0 that wasn’t rebuilt and sell that truck, granted they are both 3.73s. Are you sure there’s not any aftermarket equipment installed that could be messing with the alarm?

Do the map lights work? If they do you light issue might be the dimmer switch.

 

[koda2000]

" @GroupExploder - OK, drove the 5.0 today. Several minor annoying issues that I need to address.

1. The rear diff is making some noise. About 35-40 you can hear it whine, not loudly, not something that indicates it will crash and burn shortly, but clearly there is some work to be done on the rear end. I did drain it, replaced the oil with 90-140 and some Lucas. No huge chunks or crap came out in the drain.

Sounds like bearing wear. Not something the average DIY'er should typically attempt.

2. Radio has no display--(searching for solutions as Koda2000 suggested). It works, but no display.

If you have the Mach radio (RDS button and no clock button) they all lose the display. It's due to excessive heat causing the solder joints on the power board to break. There used to be a company (fixyourradio) that would modify the power boards (lifting the resistors away from the circuit board) but I don't know if they're still in business. Unlike the non-Mach version of this radio (the one with the clock button) there are no aftermarket replacement boards available. If you're good with working on electronics, you can maybe find/repair the broken solder joints, but unless you lift the resistors off the board they will break again.

Link: Ford Explorer

3. Mirrors do not work. Since that door panel has to come off, I will when out at the junkyards, grab several switches. Along with activators, since the drivers does nothing when you set the U/L switch.

You do not need to remove the door panel to replace the mirror switch. It can be popped out with a small screw driver if you release the clips, which are on the sides of the switch. The switch is likely your problem.

4. No interior lights. I did pull all the fuses and checked them in the sunlight. I am going to get off the net the fuse panel locations for each fuse.

This, along with your alarm problems, could be due to broken/stuck switches located on each of the door latch switches. Check the bulbs and if okay do the dome lights work on some doors but not other? The switches ar located on all 4 door locks, the rear hatch glass and on the hatch latches. Sometimes spraying some WD40 on the switches push-button will get them working again, sometimes you need to replace them (they're held onto the latch with a single screw. Do the trucks have aftermarket alarms installed? I never understand why people install these things. The eventually always cause problems. The factory alarms that are std equipment (aka PATS) do just as good a job (PATS was std on '98-'01 Explorers).

5. Both the Green 99 and this 5.0, the alarms go off at will. The only way to shut them down it to pull the relay. The Green 4.0 works with the fob, the doors, and the keypad, but randomly the horn goes off. The only way to stop it....pop the hood, pull the relay. Reset the relay. No matter if you use the fob, or the keypad or the internal U/L switch, the horn continues to bark.

I noticed the 5.0 all four side lamps blinking at once. Which I assume is the alarm going off without the horn relay installed. I opened and closed each door securely. I locked the front door., I reset the U/L button and the 7/8-9/0 button on the keyless, the lights continued to flash for about a minute. Then stopped.
I gotta study this. I need to set up a key fob for this 5.0 anyway.

6. On the 5.0, I am going to put a temp block on the coolant from entering the heater core. Even though I have the vacuum switch tied shut with zip-ties, last night when I drove it, I could still feel overly warm air coming from the vents. So coolant is still getting into the heater core. I will this week study the blend doors, and associated flaps below the dash. I CAN hear movement when I touch the buttons on this Eddie Bauer version, so something is working down there. The floor comes on, then vent then def, but warm air continues to flow. Even with the ambient temp of 75--the air flow is too warm.

The issue could likely be a broken blend door or blend door actuator.

7. My tenant finished the red 98 4.0 front suspension. Upper to lowers to ties to sway bar bushing. NICE. I have another complete front suspension box of new parts, we climbed up under the 5.0. The right side upper balljoint is completely gone. So he will do the front suspension on the 5.0.

Very common issue. These trucks are rough on ball joints and it doesn't help that the OE rubber boots degrade over time.

The rear differential does bug me. It makes this low-level howl for a long time. It may crap out quickly. My 99 Suburban 4x4 has made noise for 100,000 miles, not getting any worse or dying. So for the time being, we will let it ride."

Not an unusual complaint with the Ford 8.8" rear diff. They can go a long time making noise.

 

[GroupExploder]

OK--did a pick a part run. I collected a bucket full of incidental parts. Aside from the ghetto woman who was abusing her children...I pulled various door activators, and mirror connectors, along with front hood high pressure shocks/struts.

Below, are two pictures. In Exhibit #1, when I pulled the door panel I found problems with the door lock. It took me a few minutes to ascertain that the door lock was not connected to anything. I now know the pink connection from pic 2, is what makes the rod go up and down,.

Exhibit 2. In this picture, I tried to scope my camera down towards the activator and this errant rod. I ran my hand up as far as I could to see where this rod, which the pink plastic piece that fits on the back of the tumbler lock. Abliet there is no C clip, or is lost in space which hold all this together, AND is why is was all hanging.

SO: That rod, that is hanging where does it up in regards to the lock. I can feel up under the window channel. I am going to Harbor Freight to get a inspection mirror so I can see up there.

 

[GroupExploder]

UPDATE: compliments of Utube..figured out most of this but still lost on how to re-connect that loose rod to the door lock.

Mirrors and door activator connections were off, fallen. Now with a bit of blood to remind everything, from my middle finger I got the activator to activate and the mirrors to mirror (move),

I took the door lock out, douched it with blaster, within a few seconds the key would now work. The issue now is reconnection of that pink plastic thingy and the rod.

 

[koda2000]

I have no idea how the pink thing attaches to the key lock, but it looks like it will only go on 1 of 2 ways (maybe only one way) and is probably held on with an e-clip. The other end of the rod goes to the door latch and prevents the latch from working when the door is locked. Do you have the "U" shaped spring metal click that holds the lock cylinder in the door? The electric door lock actuator works with the latch the same way, either preventing or allowing the latch to open.

Once you get the key locks working, lubricate them at least once a year w/powdered graphite to keep them working. Also, lube the fuzzy window channels once a year with Liquid Wrench brand foaming silicon spray to keep the windows working smoothly and to not strain the window motors (especially the front windows or you can tear up the window regulators).

Tip: To make seeing/working inside the door easier, the lower part of the rear window channel is only held in place by a single bolt (11 mm?) and a spring clip that attaches it to the upper part. Be sure to disconnect the wires that should be attached to the lower channel, as to not damage them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Place that pink arm piece back onto the key cylinder, and it should never be taken off, unless it's broken. A tiny e-clip is missing and might be in the bottom of the door.

That yellow plastic clip is the only tricky part, it pulls open in a certain direction. Note the location along the rod, that is the adjustment of how well the handle engages the latch parts.

Ditto on the window guide channel, remove the short part along the back edge of the window. The one mounting bolt adjusts the amount of pressure on the back edge of the glass, it's easy to R&R, and readjust.

Lubricate all of the latches well, and check the door striker bushings. Those affect the interior lights and alarm functions, and when old need attention.

My 98 Mercury has all of the original strikers, 206k miles and everything opens flawlessly. That truck was well taken care of, I've had it since about 98k. My newest 98 Explorer was not taken care of, I've replaced all of the strikers, and adjusted three doors to get them to shut better. My hatch strikers don't last long because I believe the right hinge is tweaked(there was an antenna mounted on the roof/hatch seam). Until I can replace the hatch hinges, the hatch is evidently moving a bit while driving, eating the right striker quickly.

A well cared for vehicle can last indefinitely, a neglected one can be very hard to keep going. You're doing the right thing, keep working on the issues as you find them.

For the rear, replace the axle bearings and seals, those are usually the first to go(and make noise). Hopefully that's all that truck needs. My 98 has been great since I did those first thing two years ago.

 

[koda2000]

Tips:
If you need door latch bushings, I use 1/2 PEX tubing (under $2 for 8' piece at Home Depot). I have to turn it down bit to get the proper OD (electric drill and a rasp - poor mans lathe), but it works great and so far seems to be more durable than any bushings I've found on eBay. Maybe tougher than OE.

Use white lithium grease on the door latch mechanisms.

The yellow clips snap open/shut. They can be difficult to open with just your fingers and sometimes break. Ford still sells them and you can get an assortment in the auto parts HELP section, though the quality is suspect (as it is with most Dorman stuff).

 

[Spudhut]

Great find...looking forward to seeing progress.

 

[GroupExploder]

OK...below you will see a picture I took this morning after a trek through PickAPart. A number of things I was educated on.
1. Great exercise!
2. I pulled three drivers door cylinders with everything attached. One from a 2001, a 1998 and 1995. Basically had to cut them out of the door. Harmless error actually considering the ultimate destination of the wrecked Explorer.

On my V-8 model, which is a 98 Eddie Bauer, the door cylinder was not attached to anything. Since I needed--so I thought--that the door activator was bad, and the mirror switch was bad, I pulled the panel.

Mirror and the activator were not even connected. Once I replugged things in--bingo.

The confusion in this instant is how do I re-attach the cylinder with the electrical connector AND that pink thingy-bob-doodad. Yes the E-C clip was missing.
Additionally, once I had the original cylinder in my hand I could rotate the key, the door activators would try to work. So the electrical lead, the blue wire was DOA.

By pulling 3 this morning I am chancing that at least 1 is usable.

Now the trick. Getting the lock back in the door, connected to the electrical wire with the E clip connected to the back of the whole conglomerate WHILE sticking your hand up under the window, with only 3 inches to scrape your knuckles and bleed a pint of O Positive everywhere.

I see why in 02 Ford changed the door handle design. But back to the EB V-8. This will require some patience and maybe a long long needle nose to try to attach the E clip once the cylinder is installed.

Oh, and I picked up a set of KYB shocks for my green 4.0 for $14.00. I'm sorta of a Beilstein person but in the grand scheme of things for 14 bucks I'll take the two front shocks. BTW, they were easy to pull. So Ford did something right. I see the rears are the same as I have on an XJ Jeep.

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you take the e-clip and arm off of the cylinders when you removed them? They should come out as an assembly.

 

[koda2000]

I doubt very much it was ever Ford's ideal to try to attach the e-clip with the lock installed in the door. That seems like it would be nearly impossible. I'd remove the rod with the pink thing from the latch (may require the latch to be unbolted from the door) and install the e-clip on the lock cylinder out in the open, then reinstall the lock cylinder and latch.

Due to your lack of experience with these vehicles you will struggle with stuff like this. Eventually, after you've done it more than once, you'll start to figure things out. Don't get frustrated. If you do, walk away and come back with a clear head later. I can't tell you how many times I've become frustrated while trying to do something, and can't figure it out. When I came back the next day I'd come up with a new idea and I managed to get it done w/in minutes. There's always a different way to do something. If you force it you'll just f*** something up.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, the little stuff and cramped spaces some things are located in, make it harder. Make yourself be patient with those kinds of things, take a break etc, try another way or order etc. That's part of why we mention removing the rear window guide/channel, it opens up a lot of room to see and reach in there to the latch area.

 

[GroupExploder]

Well I got a good running 4.0 99 XLT, with working AC. New brakes and front end. I need to run to the coast this weekend, I adopted a boy a few years back who was homeless (which I learned later) and was working for one of my clients for cash. I used some of my dad's scholarship money, got him in school, he is graduating 3rd in his class heading to med school at UC Davis.

I gotta get a haircut. I KNOW the media is going to be there. But trust me, I'll prominently display my Exploder. I need to lay off on the small stuff since I bleed easily. My arms and hands are a mess. My fingernails look like I've been scraping off the paint of a black Dodge. (Which is easy since Dodge uses suck ****ty paint anyway). With the kid getting his diploma this weekend and considering his background, along with his story of being homeless since he was 15, I gotta gut feeling....just an inklin, the media is going to be there. And a camera will be shoved in my face, the cop who the kid broke her jaw and the District Attorney who I convinced to hold off on prosecution.....I would of loved to have known his mom. (sincerely with all positive intents), because he is a good kid. The cop he busted can attest to a nasty quick left hook. But, that is what you get for towing his motorhome at 2am.

Luckily for me I have my law degree, my BA, MA and School of Hard Knocks and Knockers. And my natural kids are all up and grown and successful, albeit one has $500k in outstanding student loans.

So all in all, for an old fart retired, I guess my trio of Exploders will keep me off the streets at night, weekends, and probably working week too.

I just liked the Exploders 2nd Gen, and maybe even a 1st Gen. So, I bought one,. then two, then three and it looks like four and five might be coming in, both of them are 1st Gens.